With a flat tappet engine, should I add a ZDDP additive when using a Full Synthetic Oil? I have a very small "RV" cam, and stock valve spring. Normal RPM range 2000-3500.
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Full Synthetic oil and ZDDP ?
- Thread starter rustytoolss
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Try the search function. This question comes up from every new member that joins.
The answer is no. Zddp matters during break in. Or if running elevated spring rates.
Today's oils are light years ahead of what they used to be. And if you check you'll learn that zddp rates haven't dropped a whole lot as a whole and only in the 20 and 30 grades.
Some 40 grades are higher than others but it's irrelevant. There are better additive packages in today's oil. Zddp is Jurassic period stuff.
The answer is no. Zddp matters during break in. Or if running elevated spring rates.
Today's oils are light years ahead of what they used to be. And if you check you'll learn that zddp rates haven't dropped a whole lot as a whole and only in the 20 and 30 grades.
Some 40 grades are higher than others but it's irrelevant. There are better additive packages in today's oil. Zddp is Jurassic period stuff.
Originally Posted By: bigdom
I would try to buy the best oil instead, one with all the additives you need instead of adding something.
Best oil? What's that?
I would try to buy the best oil instead, one with all the additives you need instead of adding something.
Best oil? What's that?
Originally Posted By: rustytoolss
With a flat tappet engine, should I add a ZDDP additive when using a Full Synthetic Oil? I have a very small "RV" cam, and stock valve spring. Normal RPM range 2000-3500.
With stock pressure valve springs, you are probably fine. You could use mobil 1 high mileage , its SL rated and has more zinc, 1100 ppm.
With a flat tappet engine, should I add a ZDDP additive when using a Full Synthetic Oil? I have a very small "RV" cam, and stock valve spring. Normal RPM range 2000-3500.
With stock pressure valve springs, you are probably fine. You could use mobil 1 high mileage , its SL rated and has more zinc, 1100 ppm.
Or Rotella T 6. Old motorcycle forums are full of enough back and forth about zinc to put you to sleep, if you're interested.
I agree with the replies by Clevy and spasm3; after "OCD'ing" about this for too long, the weight of all of the evidence I can absorb from people here far smarter than I am is that it's not worth it to try to out-think petroleum engineers that have to make oil work in millions of engines, old and new.
And, I lurk around other forums with guys that run ULTRA high spring pressures for drag racing; most of them don't fool around with additives either, and certainly not with the specs you describe.
Welcome to BITOG.
Kevin
And, I lurk around other forums with guys that run ULTRA high spring pressures for drag racing; most of them don't fool around with additives either, and certainly not with the specs you describe.
Welcome to BITOG.
Kevin
Valvoline (street) racing 10w30 synthetic or conventional is an option too - though some would prefer copious MoDTC add over zdp in a already broken in engine. A soft cam lobe is going to wear regardless of additives. Depend on how good the (induction) hardening was controlled - I would say "not well" on an aftermarket budget cam made out of the states.
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In fact Valvoline SynPower 5W-30 is A3/B4, LL01/229.5 and is rated as SAE 5w30.
Thanks guys
I've run M1 TDT 5w40, valvoline racing 10w30 synthetic, royal purple 15w40, and castrol syntec 20w50 in my classic fords with no issues. Cold and hot oil pressures are consistent regardless of oil weight and type.
I plan on using my recent stash purchase of castrol syntec 5w50 next time. Just have to wait until December 2015 for another oil change in my stang and ranchero.
I plan on using my recent stash purchase of castrol syntec 5w50 next time. Just have to wait until December 2015 for another oil change in my stang and ranchero.
fwiw, most every MG guy uses valvoline VR1 dino or rotella T
Royal Purple HPS Lots of ZDDP and it has some 'real' class 4 and 5 synthetic....
http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/products/hps-motor-oil/
http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/products/hps-motor-oil/
I use Mobil 1 15w-50 which needs no additive , it's loaded with zddp (zinc & phosphorus as it is) and is recommended by Mobil for all flat tappet engines. I use it in all my vintage cars. Some are stock, some are highly modified . In both extremes the Mobil 1 15w-50 works extremely well. I know these engines were spec'ed for 10w-30 back 50 years ago when they were made. No matter. The Mobil 1 is the way to go for reliability and endurance.
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