Fuel Treatment
- Thread starter greasegunn
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Thanks. I live in Central New York so the snow blower gets used very frequently in the winter. It's a 25+ year old Toro that I've had for about 8 years. Goes through the gas can quicker in the winter than in the summer. Been dosing in the winter too.
The cost (per treated gallon) of blue marine Stabil is peanuts. Why not just treat all the gas for your OPE? Given the extra cleaners that the blue marine Stabil has, it might actually clean some crud in the tank or carb that you did not know you had.
The shop where I took my backpack blower to recommended some of the trufuel or other versions (stihl/redmax) for when using any of the equipment less or end of season. No E0 by me.
They said run normal fuel or mix pending on equipment. Used on regular basis not much issue. Last time run it empty, put in E0 or canned versions, run it so all through, run dry then if possible empty the carb/bowl.
I just replaced a carb on briggs motored thatcher. I did all the carb cleaning first trying to get it. Needed rebuild kit which nowhere local had. $23 for carb kit ordered and wait 1-2 days, local truvalue had new carb for $47. After wasting 1+ hour with cleaing and no result, new carb went on and worked perfectly.
The old carb was like brown coating covering everything inside. Carb cleaner spray wouldn't touch it. All areas had to be "brushed" to remove it while wet with cleaner. Obviously can't do that inside all the jets/ports. Somebody had vied with the gallon carb cleaning can/basket and let sit 1 hour but destroys seals so you need rebuild kit anyway.
They said run normal fuel or mix pending on equipment. Used on regular basis not much issue. Last time run it empty, put in E0 or canned versions, run it so all through, run dry then if possible empty the carb/bowl.
I just replaced a carb on briggs motored thatcher. I did all the carb cleaning first trying to get it. Needed rebuild kit which nowhere local had. $23 for carb kit ordered and wait 1-2 days, local truvalue had new carb for $47. After wasting 1+ hour with cleaing and no result, new carb went on and worked perfectly.
The old carb was like brown coating covering everything inside. Carb cleaner spray wouldn't touch it. All areas had to be "brushed" to remove it while wet with cleaner. Obviously can't do that inside all the jets/ports. Somebody had vied with the gallon carb cleaning can/basket and let sit 1 hour but destroys seals so you need rebuild kit anyway.
I use a UCL (MMO, Lucas UCL or SuperTech TCW3) about every other tank of fuel in most OPE. I think this allows for an easier/gentler break-in of the piston rings and will cut down on oil consumption in an engine that consumes oil (observed in many engines over the years).
Once or twice per season I'll use a fuel system cleaner like Red Line Oil SI-1 ... or any other I have on hand.
I started using this stuff in place of StaBil in my OPE:
https://s.yimg.com/fz/api/res/1.2/jH5Lz5G7noW_lsMmv_fMvg--/YXBwaWQ9c3JjaGRkO2g9NzIwO3E9OTU7dz0xMjgw/http://i1.ytimg.com/vi/88hu_ZlXqoE/maxresdefault.jpg
They have E0 by me ... but I haven't used it in any of our OPE yet ... just in the S2000.
OK with everything, so far. I have never really had a problem with anything ... but I am very careful not to let fuel sit for any length of time (1/2 of a year max).
Once or twice per season I'll use a fuel system cleaner like Red Line Oil SI-1 ... or any other I have on hand.
I started using this stuff in place of StaBil in my OPE:
https://s.yimg.com/fz/api/res/1.2/jH5Lz5G7noW_lsMmv_fMvg--/YXBwaWQ9c3JjaGRkO2g9NzIwO3E9OTU7dz0xMjgw/http://i1.ytimg.com/vi/88hu_ZlXqoE/maxresdefault.jpg
They have E0 by me ... but I haven't used it in any of our OPE yet ... just in the S2000.
OK with everything, so far. I have never really had a problem with anything ... but I am very careful not to let fuel sit for any length of time (1/2 of a year max).
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