Fuel Economy vs. Engine Protection: Will a heavier oil protect my engine from Small Particle Damage?

[The Farmer]

I came across this article from Machinery Lubrication.

Based on what I read in the article, I'd like to understand if opting for a heavier oil can indeed offer better protection for my engine against wear and tear caused by small particles.

With the automotive industry trending towards oils that improve fuel efficiency, I'm curious about the trade-offs, especially under tough driving conditions.

Does the push for fuel savings compromise our engines in the long run? I'd like to hear your thoughts and experiences on the matter.

Thank you.

 

[kschachn]

Where is the discussion on small particles and oil grade? I missed that.

And as for lower grades and longevity and everything related to that, well you can’t hardly navigate this site without stumbling over the number of those threads and discussions. Perhaps look around and check back later.

 

[The Farmer]

Where is the discussion on small particles and oil grade? I missed that.

It's come to my attention that I have to explain images when I post them, or accompany them with significant and meaningful comments.

In the image bellow, a bearing and a journal are shown. It could be a rod bearing or a main bearing, for example. The yellow colored space indicates the clearance between the journal and the bearing, and the color specifically is the oil that fills that clearance. The wear particle is depicted in the right-upper portion, between the journal and the bearing.

What I would like to know is if the oil film is strong and thick enough to hold that wear particle in suspension, even when the bearing is at its highest contact point with the journal, separated only by that thin film of oil. Thank you.

This image represents a similar example as the one above, but depicts a cylinder and a piston. As I don't want to repeat myself, I believe it is self explanatory. Thank you.

And as for lower grades and longevity and everything related to that, well you can’t hardly navigate this site without stumbling over the number of those threads and discussions. Perhaps look around and check back later.

You're spicy.

 

[Revving2Redline]

I would guess it will do so. If I was worried about K&N particle wear ppm a slightly thicker oil should wear less especially if lots of dirt is going through. I at that point would oil flush and go boutique with a higher hths oil.

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

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You're spicy.

Those “wear causing particles” are illustrated way to big; since most filters are at least effective @ 30 microns, and some much better than that, you should remember that most wear particles are in the sub-20 micron range, but in reality they can be any size that exceeds the thickness of the oil at the point of interface.

Valvetrain interfaces are significantly more susceptible to wear causing particles than say, crank or cam bearings.

 

[930.engineering]

That's why you shouldn't use K&N filters.
.

 

[RDMgr]

Wear does not have to be three body wear in which the offending particles are free. It can be two body wear in which surface roughness is the problem. Particles don't need to enter the interface. Surface asperities can contact each other causing wear. Embedded particles contribute to two body wear as well.

 

[StarCaller]

The article is from July 2003.... /

 

[kschachn]

You're spicy.

And you?

I’m still missing the link to grade and those particles.

 

[dubber09]

Right, the more $$ you save on gas this way the more $$ you have for engine rebuild or downpayment on replacement

 

[The Farmer]

I’m still missing the link to grade and those particles.

I'm sorry, I don't understand what you mean.

The article is from July 2003.... /

I believe it is still interesting, though I wanted to read the opinions of others about it.

That's why you shouldn't use K&N filters.

Are they bad?

 

[joekingcorvette]

I just choose my oil by what the owners manual dictates. Right, wrong, or in between I have never had an oil burner by using the recommended factory oil specifications.

 

[mitsuman47]

I'm sorry, I don't understand what you mean.

I believe it is still interesting, though I wanted to read the opinions of others about it.

Are they bad?

Ignore kschachn. Scroll right past their posts. He/she is only here to troll the new members on the site. If you’re wondering whether you did something wrong in the way you asked the question, no you didn’t. There will likely be someone knowledgeable to answer your original question, who is actually helpful instead of offering up pointless resistance and snark. Some have already made it into the thread.

I’m no expert, but my understanding is that K&N air filters are generally less efficient in their filtering vs most oem style filters. Some have said the lower efficiency is caused by improper oiling of the filters. Others have said it is the design of their filters. Either way, I generally avoid them, as there seems to be very little, if any, power gained by using their filters. Usually best to use the factory style air filter.

Welcome to the site!

 

[TiGeo]

I just choose my oil by what the owners manual dictates. Right, wrong, or in between I have never had an oil burner by using the recommended factory oil specifications.

Do you even BITOG bro?

 

[TiGeo]

Such prolific writing in this one such as these passages:

Some of the trucks are called sport-utility vehicles, otherwise known as SUVs, because their owners don’t want to admit they are trucks. The mass (size, weight) of these vehicles is not conducive to great fuel economy.

And this gem:

Additionally, consider how most vehicles are driven. Anyone accelerating slowly or driving at the speed limit to conserve energy is a danger to himself and other drivers who are in a much bigger hurry.

My 11 year old Ford Focus at 130K mi on 5W20 with a K&N seems to be doing just fine with no oil consumption to speak of.

 

[TiGeo]

Ignore kschachn. Scroll right past their posts. He/she is only here to troll the new members on the site. If you’re wondering whether you did something wrong in the way you asked the question, no you didn’t. There will likely be someone knowledgeable to answer your original question, who is actually helpful instead of offering up pointless resistance and snark. Some have already made it into the thread.

I’m no expert, but my understanding is that K&N air filters are generally less efficient in their filtering vs most oem style filters. Some have said the lower efficiency is caused by improper oiling of the filters. Others have said it is the design of their filters. Either way, I generally avoid them, as there seems to be very little, if any, power gained by using their filters. Usually best to use the factory style air filter.

Welcome to the site!

Suggest you click on the OPs name and check out their 9 posts after joining yesterday with mods already involved on some (and clearly was PMd by one here that was the impetus of his comment regarding how his post was ask). Thick/thin. Extended drains. M1. Troll-fest. I do like the AI-generated avatar though...I'm inspired.

 

[mitsuman47]

Suggest you click on the OPs name and check out their 9 posts after joining yesterday with mods already involved on some (and clearly was PMd by one here that was the impetus of his comment regarding how his post was ask). Thick/thin. Extended drains. M1. Troll-fest. I do like the AI-generated avatar though...I'm inspired.

Thanks for the heads up. Looks like we’re dealing with trolls trolling trolls.

 

[TiGeo]

Hey wayminut...his avatar is gone! Yet I'm a Viking!

 

[4WD]

Those “wear causing particles” are illustrated way to big; since most filters are at least effective @ 30 microns, and some much better than that, you should remember that most wear particles are in the sub-20 micron range, but in reality they can be any size that exceeds the thickness of the oil at the point of interface.

Valvetrain interfaces are significantly more susceptible to wear causing particles than say, crank or cam bearings.

This is something that bugs me on my own 5.3L’s … I know they put allot of effort into a stiff 4 bolt main + cross bolted lower end - variable output oil pumps, and tremendous R&D into new heads - but top it all off with AFM/DFM where no lubricant can guarantee it surviving for a long time …
The 6.0L runs forever without this system …