Front Pad/Rotor choice for 2008 CRV

Silly question. How do warranties work on wear items?
They're not supposed to care. They just hand you a new set if you have the old. Every once in awhile an employee on a crusade thinks this is "wrong" but it's fine by company policy -- contact the regional mgr if necessary.

In many cases you can buy a new set today and return the old set later for a refund. Verify first, though. This is actually how most commercial warranty is handled -- buy today, send the old part back with the driver and get a refund tomorrow
 
I asked the guy at the counter and he said just bring the pads with the box and they will give you a replacement no questions asked.
You don't need the box. They're supposed to keep the new box and put the old part in there. They tag it as warranty return.
 
I really wonder how Akebono has such a polarizing effect. I had them on my Audi from the factory (still do in the rear) and think they are the biggest piece of crap ever made. Personally I don’t care about dusting. The have absolutely no feel to them when cold. Warmed up they seemed better, but still totally unpredictable. Have always ran ATEs in every VW I have owned since 1996 and My Porsche Cayman. Put ATEs on my Audi an instant 100% improvement and glorious brake dust like a proper German car should have. Even my wife noticed the improvement first time out. Yet others praise them.:unsure:
 
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I asked the guy at the counter and he said just bring the pads with the box and they will give you a replacement no questions asked.
When I had an 80 series landcruiser it would eat up the Duralast pads in 10k miles. Heavy truck with smallish brakes. I was at Autozone every few months. Never a problem exchanging them for free. Don't even need to be completely worn out.
 
When I had an 80 series landcruiser it would eat up the Duralast pads in 10k miles. Heavy truck with smallish brakes. I was at Autozone every few months. Never a problem exchanging them for free. Don't even need to be completely worn out.
I used to be the guy the always buy pads and rotors at the dealership. After experiencing many premature lateral run outs and/or break squeals after 30k miles, I've had enough of it. And yes - this is using the correct lube type and lubing at the correct locations. Measuring the lateral run out on the hub. IME, OE is not worth the cost, for me at least. I would rather buy warranty pads as it's a better option for me in the long run. Especially, when having a large fleet.
 
The ford OEM or whatevery they are called brake pads for my ford focus were absolutely terrible.
They worked and worn well but they would rust really fast and start flaking causing all sorts of issues.
 
I really wonder how Akebono has such a polarizing effect. I had them on my Audi from the factory (still do in the rear) and think they are the biggest piece of crap ever made. Personally I don’t care about dusting. The have absolutely no feel to them when cold. Warmed up they seemed better, but still totally unpredictable. Have always ran ATEs in every VW I have owned since 1996 and My Porsche Cayman. Put ATEs on my Audi an instant 100% improvement and glorious brake dust like a proper German car should have. Even my wife noticed the improvement first time out. Yet others praise them.:unsure:
You aren’t the only one who has this opinion of akebono, there’s a few of us here who don’t like exactly what you describe.
 
I’ve used about 6 sets of the Carquest professional platinum pads from Advance Auto and I love them. No noise, low dust, just like OEM pads.I always order them online with a coupon code to save some money.
 
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Yeah Akebono makes really good ceramic pads. Even the best ceramic pads perform poorly compared to dusty euro brake pads based on semi metallic and organic material.
If my car wasnt so gosh darn heavy I would run something high dust and organic.
 
PSA - This wasn't the E3's fault on my '17 Accord but did result in needing pads then, not in a couple days so Duralast Elite is on it now. I had to replace a caliper for ripped boot before my son took it to VA end of April. The tabs were lubricated and moved freely in the stainless shims with the wire springs pushing them apart. Caliper went on, I was holding pads, just enough room for one tab to slide out but I didn't see it. No braking issues except random noise backing up and then 2.5 months and 5k later, started making noise when start driving from stop sign/light etc but stopped in a couple seconds. No pull, no shudder just normal braking even hard versions of that.

The Elites are GG rated if that matters to anyone, just watch that initial grind noise for pad transfer material.
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So a follow up to this post. Still had a slight squeak on backing but from rear so pulled it apart while it's 88 in the shade before it gets hotter. Again installer error (me). My Accord is one of 2 vehicles I have now that have the screw in pistons on the rear. When I swapped everything I of course turned them all the way in so they would be easy to get over new pads. Well again taking up space on first 1-2 brake applications the piston spins also coming out. It moved enough that the the pin on inside pad was not at low point but touching part of the cross. I filed the piece back on piston and turned it 1/4 turn anyway and reinstalled. Pad nub has wear angle.

Passenger side was similar so did the same there. If they still squeak then new pads will go on. Wire springs were good, pads not stuck at all, you could see the M77 still. I also filed off the rusty edges on outside of rotor that seemed to touch the pads a bit. Left rear rotor might be slight warp or need index 180 (rotor screws) to try. It barely touches pad a bit more in one spot as you spin it. There was no pulsing before, I'll find out later if the same. Passenger side doesn't do that. I also need a new runout gauge and mount. No clue where that is currently.

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