Front end alignment on pickup

[SZR48207]

Vehicle: 2002 Ford F150 2WD

I have noticed some very minor play in the front wheels when checking the ball joints, so I ordered all the parts needed to do a proper front end revamp:

Moog upper control arms w/ new Moog ball joints pressed in
Moog lower control arm ball joints (use existing control arms)
Moog cam bolt alignment kit

I'm hoping the install is fairly straightforward as I found an excellent how-to video online, but I am wondering how critical it would be, time-wise, to get an alignment done after replacing the parts.

I got the cam bolt alignment kit because I've heard that shops can't do a proper alignment without it, but it seems like I'm not really changing the suspension geometry much? Is it OK to delay getting an alignment for a few weeks, even if I will be doing a lot more driving during that time than normal?

In the big picture, it seems like I'm better off on a reliable suspension with new parts than one that is perfectly aligned, but aging.

 

[The_Jeff]

The distance from upper to lower ball joint isn't that huge and any teeny discrepancy is going to cause a huge pull.

I've done my own alignments for toe and camber, but would not be able to set the caster in your example.

IIRC ford digs around in their parts bin for a fixed piece of the right shape/length at the factory; that cammed bolt is a universal replacement.

In short, yeah you'll need a shop. But you'll know how much you need it by the pull.

 

[Trav]

Since the tie rods are not being changed toe should be okay,i think you can go a few weeks without any problems.
The lower ball joints can be a real PITA,not as bad on a 4x4 but still need to be pressed in with a ball joint press.Support the lower arm with a jack remove the clip and beat the old one out.

One these i usually swap the arms complete,the cost is not bad and the arm has new bushings (also a major wear item)in as well as the joint,raybestos has a pro grade unit for $76 at rock auto that is decent.
I only rebuild the cast iron ones on the 4x4 as they cost a small fortune new for OEM or Moog.

 

[mechtech2]

Any ball joint or upper strut mount change will change the camber and toe. [Unless you are extremely lucky]
If you change the camber, you DO change the toe.
Those camber bolts allow movement to set the camber. It is often better to use the larger stock bolts and slot the strut hole [5-10 minutes]
Cars used to be adjustable, and now are locked in place.

And believe it or not, new sway bar parts can change alignment . If the new end links are stiff, they can certainly pull a bit. Not much at all, but it is there.

Anyway, it is actually a good thing to drive 1-200 miles after major part replacement before getting your alignment. This allows things to settle in. But hopefully, you are not too far off. Then, you should try and get it close, first.

 

[Trav]

If he leaves the eccentrics in the zero position the toe should not be far off.We do a ton of these Fords and the toe is usually close enough that it doesn't pull if left at zero unless of course it had eccentrics installed previously.

I don't do alignments here so we just put one of the magnetic gauges on before driving to the shop.

 

[mechtech2]

Hopefully it will be close enough to drive for a few days.
But we can never expect all settings to be right after parts changing.
Changing camber changes toe - it has to.

 

[Trav]

Agreed it changes toe but if he sets the eccentric to 0 it hopefully its close enough for the time he say he needs before it gets aligned.

OP Getting the things near 0 will be the trick as the Upper control arm mounts are slotted on this Ford.
A long vertical mark in the middle of where the original bolt sits in the mount is a good reference for the eccentrics.
Mark the eccentrics also with a long vertical line right where the middle of the bolt hole is,then match it to the one you made from the original bolt.
This should get you close to the previous setting.

 

[Trav]

I just did ball joints on a F150 today.This may be of help when you do the upper control arms.
Loosen (no need to remove) the rear bolt holding the ABS unit bracket to the front left upper control arm mount.
Remove the control arm with a twisting motion to spread the bracket slightly otherwise getting the new one in will be a real pain.