Are there any people on this board who has used synthetic oils in their rides but switched back to dino oil and why?joe
From synthetic back to dino
- Thread starter Dually
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From what I've gathered from talking to people - If your car is under or around 30,000 miles you should be safe going back.
I've also had more than one person recommend using Dino to "flush" your synthetic oil when switching to another synthetic brand. I plan on doing that to get an accurate UOA for my next OCI.
I've also had more than one person recommend using Dino to "flush" your synthetic oil when switching to another synthetic brand. I plan on doing that to get an accurate UOA for my next OCI.
Are you only meaning people who used syn. from the beginning and went back to dino?
if not, I did use syn.oil twice when the car had about 85k miles, and went back dino. Reason: leaks/consumption of oil for the first time in the car's life when switched to syn. oil.
if not, I did use syn.oil twice when the car had about 85k miles, and went back dino. Reason: leaks/consumption of oil for the first time in the car's life when switched to syn. oil.
I have converted from using M1 to using Dino in all three vehicles. Reasons:
1. Dino oils have become much more advanced.
2. I personally don't want to extend my OCI's beyond 5,000 miles. I want to get the suspended contaminants out of my engine on a regular basis. (So using synthetic does not make economic sense in this situation.)
3. I do not own any high-performance vehicles.
4. My vehicles are not exposed to severe service.
5. I do not live in a harsh climate. Winters are not that cold and summers are not that hot. I don't really need low pour points and really high flash points.
6. There have been many excellent UOA's with dino that helped change my way of thinking.
7. I have read the posts on this site referencing vehicles that have gone over 200,000 mile on regular intervals with dino.
8. I have never seen any conclusive, substantive, tangible evidence that clearly shows that your engine will last longer and have less wear with synthetic. It would be fascinating to track the results from two identical vehicles with one using dino and one using synthetic to make wear comparisons. The only study that comes close is the Consumer Reports Study with the NYC Taxi Cabs. And there really was no clear difference indicated in that study. (I know, I know...it is not necessarily a good representation of real life driving situations...but it is non-the-less the only one I have seen)
1. Dino oils have become much more advanced.
2. I personally don't want to extend my OCI's beyond 5,000 miles. I want to get the suspended contaminants out of my engine on a regular basis. (So using synthetic does not make economic sense in this situation.)
3. I do not own any high-performance vehicles.
4. My vehicles are not exposed to severe service.
5. I do not live in a harsh climate. Winters are not that cold and summers are not that hot. I don't really need low pour points and really high flash points.
6. There have been many excellent UOA's with dino that helped change my way of thinking.
7. I have read the posts on this site referencing vehicles that have gone over 200,000 mile on regular intervals with dino.
8. I have never seen any conclusive, substantive, tangible evidence that clearly shows that your engine will last longer and have less wear with synthetic. It would be fascinating to track the results from two identical vehicles with one using dino and one using synthetic to make wear comparisons. The only study that comes close is the Consumer Reports Study with the NYC Taxi Cabs. And there really was no clear difference indicated in that study. (I know, I know...it is not necessarily a good representation of real life driving situations...but it is non-the-less the only one I have seen)
I switched to dino on my 86 Toy (22R - 195k) after it seeing M1 15w-50 for many years. Was doing a RX on her and picked up M1 HM 10w-40 and as the base stock appears to be a bit more hearty as compared to their 5000 10w-40 I figured what could it hurt.
I am on the rinse cycle of the RX and tried Castrol HM 10w-40 and it is in fact a thicker oil than the M1 HM 10w-40. No consumption (zero) or leaking issues with either so I am going to stick with the Castrol for a while. It is my daily beater and I change the oil every 6mo anyway so with the quality of dinos being so good now, why not?
J
I am on the rinse cycle of the RX and tried Castrol HM 10w-40 and it is in fact a thicker oil than the M1 HM 10w-40. No consumption (zero) or leaking issues with either so I am going to stick with the Castrol for a while. It is my daily beater and I change the oil every 6mo anyway so with the quality of dinos being so good now, why not?
J
I guess I did a compromise, switched to Schaeffer's synthetic blends, from running full synthetic. Much more cost effective, and based on UOA, wear numbers rival the full synthetics on extended drain intervals. I'm convinced.
As BOB IS THE OIL GUY has said, it's not necessarily the basestock that determines an oil's quality, but rather, the quality of the additive package that's formualted with it.
As BOB IS THE OIL GUY has said, it's not necessarily the basestock that determines an oil's quality, but rather, the quality of the additive package that's formualted with it.
Your going to get too many opionions here why not just use a blend that way you get the best of both worlds.quote:
Originally posted by Dually:
Are there any people on this board who has used synthetic oils in their rides but switched back to dino oil and why?joe
I think this is one of those "old wives tale" things that got started in the early days of synthetics when the chemistry wasn't very sophisticated. Once these ideas get started, they take on a life of their own.
Triple_Se7en
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Make your own syn-blend. Many syn-blends contain less synthetic than the increased percentage of money you spend for it's purchase.
Why pay 20% more for something that contains 10-15% more synthetic?
If you have the typical 4.5 quart crankcase, use 3 dinos and 1.5 synthetic for a nice 33% blend. The initial cost of the first OCI is more -- but the 2nd OCI requires you only buy one - instead of two quarts synthetic.
Why pay 20% more for something that contains 10-15% more synthetic?
If you have the typical 4.5 quart crankcase, use 3 dinos and 1.5 synthetic for a nice 33% blend. The initial cost of the first OCI is more -- but the 2nd OCI requires you only buy one - instead of two quarts synthetic.
I used Synthetic for about ten years before switching back to Dino. Here are the reasons I switched.
1. Cost
2. oil analysis results were not that great. Dino results are much better.
3. Eventually developed a rear seal leak that dried up when I switched back to Dino.
4. Engine is quieter when using Dino.
This is all I can think of for now but for the price that I was paying, I wasn't seeing any benefits.
Wayne
1. Cost
2. oil analysis results were not that great. Dino results are much better.
3. Eventually developed a rear seal leak that dried up when I switched back to Dino.
4. Engine is quieter when using Dino.
This is all I can think of for now but for the price that I was paying, I wasn't seeing any benefits.
Wayne
I switch back & forth from synthetic to dino all the time in my wife's '97 Expedition 4.6L. It has 120k miles on it. The switching from one to the other has never caused any problems.
I'm sort of like wayne. I switched to syn over 10 years ago. In the last few years I use different oils just to see how uoa's do. I maintain 5 vehicles (not all mine) and the ones that "top tier" I use syn. I also use a quart of the RedLine mixed in.
I was running either M1 5W30 or 10W30 in my 96 Integra until I hit around 105,000. I switched to Chevron Suprme 10W30 and 20,000 miles later, no leaks, runs good, etc. No samples to compare wear, but I switched back to dino with the intent of selling the car. Decided not to sell it and will continue running dino....Joe
I've done it. But thats because my car burns oil when I use synthetic.
I just switched back. My car has piston slap, and the synthetic made it worse.
I ran mostly M1 until 100K, then switched back to conventional 5w20.
I switched back when I no longer traveled 1500 miles a week. That was the original idea for going synth, I didn't want to be under the vehicle every other week.
No complaints with either oil.
I switched back when I no longer traveled 1500 miles a week. That was the original idea for going synth, I didn't want to be under the vehicle every other week.
No complaints with either oil.
I am in the process of switching back to dino after 2 oil changes of Pennzoil Platinum on my Saturn. The car was burning oil with the synthetic (apx. 2 quarts on 3800 miles the first time and 1 quart on 3200 miles the second time). It had 55k on it when I switched.
I am doing Auto-Rx right now (I probably should've done this first), and will just stick with dino after it's done.
I am doing Auto-Rx right now (I probably should've done this first), and will just stick with dino after it's done.
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