Oh wow, the cigarette lighter did not power anything when I tried plugging in my power inverter to power my ghetto battery-less Gateway Solo 9300 from 2001 with no battery which I keep in my car for use with the OBDII scanner. The cigarette lighter also seemed to be the only power socket I could find in the vehicle (what's up with that?). I will check that fuse before heading out to AZ, thanks a lot!
Friend bought a '99 Mountaineer, what to check?
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Originally Posted By: Colt45ws
Make sure the fuse for the OBDII plug is not blown. Commonly it is on the same circuit as the cigarette lighter so if someone shorts that out it takes out the power feed to the OBDII plug.
Oh yes! Good one! My wife's Focus was the same way. Forgot about that.
Make sure the fuse for the OBDII plug is not blown. Commonly it is on the same circuit as the cigarette lighter so if someone shorts that out it takes out the power feed to the OBDII plug.
Oh yes! Good one! My wife's Focus was the same way. Forgot about that.
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Originally Posted By: Towncivilian
I tried using the ScanXL program and it didn't work either. We'll take a trip to AutoZone to pull the code(s) tomorrow.
I sat in the back seat for a short trip today. I heard chirping from behind me. I'm assuming this is the differential? Could it just be low on fluid?
Was the frequency of the chirping in-time with the speed of the vehicle?
The diff is an 8.8 with 31-spline axles. They are indestructible. But the parking brake is integrated into the rear discs (drum in disc) and can be a problem point. Rear spring shackles are also an issue.
I tried using the ScanXL program and it didn't work either. We'll take a trip to AutoZone to pull the code(s) tomorrow.
I sat in the back seat for a short trip today. I heard chirping from behind me. I'm assuming this is the differential? Could it just be low on fluid?
Was the frequency of the chirping in-time with the speed of the vehicle?
The diff is an 8.8 with 31-spline axles. They are indestructible. But the parking brake is integrated into the rear discs (drum in disc) and can be a problem point. Rear spring shackles are also an issue.
I was unable to listen very closely as there was loud music playing. It did sound like the chirping went faster as the vehicle speed increased though, yes.
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Could just be the parking brake hanging up.
The code is P0401, something related to the EGR system. I've read it could be a cracked hose/pipe or the DPFE sensor., or more rarely a clogged EGR valve. Where is the EGR located? Is this it? How about the DPFE sensor?
I put in a 20oz bottle of Chevron Techron today before my friend filled up today as well.
I put in a 20oz bottle of Chevron Techron today before my friend filled up today as well.
That is your EGR valve right there.
Offhand I dont remember where the DPFE is, but if you see the EGR exhaust supply hose off of one of the manifolds, follow the silicone hoses off of that and it will lead you to the DPFE.
Offhand I dont remember where the DPFE is, but if you see the EGR exhaust supply hose off of one of the manifolds, follow the silicone hoses off of that and it will lead you to the DPFE.
Is this the DPFE sensor?
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Originally Posted By: Towncivilian
Is this the DPFE sensor?
Looks like it. Does it have two rubber hoses that go to an exhaust gas source on it?
Is this the DPFE sensor?
Looks like it. Does it have two rubber hoses that go to an exhaust gas source on it?
It does have two rubber hoses on the underside of it, but they're difficult for me to trace. However, this DPFE sensor seems very similar if not identical to this:
If I could connect my USB scan tool I could probably read the voltage from it but it doesn't want to connect (the data port fuse is fine, and it worked for the AutoZone tool). Should I go ahead and replace this, or try something else first?
If I could connect my USB scan tool I could probably read the voltage from it but it doesn't want to connect (the data port fuse is fine, and it worked for the AutoZone tool). Should I go ahead and replace this, or try something else first?
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The DPFE is a common culprit. If it is the original, I'd go ahead.
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Originally Posted By: Towncivilian
Is this the correct part? I thought it was around $30, not $108? I found the part # in this thread on Explorer Forum. Would it be feasible to try to find one from the junkyard, or would that just probably fail shortly as well? Am I correct in the assumption that non-OEM parts are junk?
Yes, no, yes, yes.
Just try and find the best deal on an OE. May even be through the dealer.
Is this the correct part? I thought it was around $30, not $108? I found the part # in this thread on Explorer Forum. Would it be feasible to try to find one from the junkyard, or would that just probably fail shortly as well? Am I correct in the assumption that non-OEM parts are junk?
Yes, no, yes, yes.
Just try and find the best deal on an OE. May even be through the dealer.
Is the part# DPFE15 ? Lowest price is on Ebay for $54($47+$7 shipping), or $60 from Amazon.
I entered my local dealer info into Fordparts.com and it listed the same price ($108). It only showed up with one dealer when I entered my ZIP code. Does this emissions fault interfere with engine performance in any way, or is it more of a "fix it when convenient" type of code
HTSS_TR, the part # listed on the parts site is 9J460. Searching eBay yields cheaper results but I'm not sure if they're OEM parts or aftermarket.
HTSS_TR, the part # listed on the parts site is 9J460. Searching eBay yields cheaper results but I'm not sure if they're OEM parts or aftermarket.
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Originally Posted By: Towncivilian
I entered my local dealer info into Fordparts.com and it listed the same price ($108). It only showed up with one dealer when I entered my ZIP code. Does this emissions fault interfere with engine performance in any way, or is it more of a "fix it when convenient" type of code?
It can make it run like a bag of [censored].
I entered my local dealer info into Fordparts.com and it listed the same price ($108). It only showed up with one dealer when I entered my ZIP code. Does this emissions fault interfere with engine performance in any way, or is it more of a "fix it when convenient" type of code?
It can make it run like a bag of [censored].
OK. This part on Amazon is Motorcraft and the vehicle checker claims it fits this engine. Does this look like a wise purchase?
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If it is legit, I don't see an issue with getting it.
I will add, it may not fix the issue (though it should). But it is a part that is known to fail anyway, and if it is original, it is likely not in great shape inside (it's a sensor.... exposed to exhaust) anyway. So replacing it is cheap insurance.
I will add, it may not fix the issue (though it should). But it is a part that is known to fail anyway, and if it is original, it is likely not in great shape inside (it's a sensor.... exposed to exhaust) anyway. So replacing it is cheap insurance.
9J460 is the Ford base number for a DPFE, all DPFE's will have 9J460 in the long number. Actually when you learn Ford's parts language you begin to refer to parts by their basic number instead of the name.
If it is the one that floats on its own its a 4U7Z-9J460-AA, if it is one that bolts in its a F77Z-9J460-AB. WE dont use the short numbers for these at my work, but i think its a DPFE-15 for the F77Z-AB, and ya they are like US$108ish MSRP.
O and if it is not in a red Motorcraft bag, it is not legit. There are lots of places selling Motorcraft branded parts in generic white boxes that are knock off parts. I usually get at least 3 calls a week from these places trying to sell the junk to us.
If it is the one that floats on its own its a 4U7Z-9J460-AA, if it is one that bolts in its a F77Z-9J460-AB. WE dont use the short numbers for these at my work, but i think its a DPFE-15 for the F77Z-AB, and ya they are like US$108ish MSRP.
O and if it is not in a red Motorcraft bag, it is not legit. There are lots of places selling Motorcraft branded parts in generic white boxes that are knock off parts. I usually get at least 3 calls a week from these places trying to sell the junk to us.
There's really no way for me to verify the authenticity of the part on Amazon other than ordering it and seeing the packaging - if it's not Motorcraft I suppose it could be returned... I'm pretty sure the one currently on the engine bolts in, but I'd have to double check.
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