I have a car that uses filters without bypass, which means low oil flow on startup, would a high flow filter like the fram racing filter be any help?
Fram racing filter
- Thread starter DINO_NO
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None what-so ever. If your vehicle calls for a filter that does not need a bypass then in all likleyhood the bypass is built into the engine. If you are using a non-application filter, then shame on you. If the "racing filter" is a true racing filter, it is littlemore than a very fine strainer, and should say right on it something similar to this... "For Racing use only, Not for use in street car applications. Use of this filter will void your vehicle manufacturers warranty."
its a 91, no more warranty on that thing.
and i dont think there is a bypass in the engine.
its a 3.1L v6, chevrolet version
And when I started the engine a while back, I quickly ran and felt the filter to feel for flow, there was flow.
and i dont think there is a bypass in the engine.
its a 3.1L v6, chevrolet version
And when I started the engine a while back, I quickly ran and felt the filter to feel for flow, there was flow.
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Yes there is....it's in the block!
The K&N flows a bit better that most standard oil filters, if you want to try them. Also, the 3980 size filter (PF 52 in AC) is oversize for that engine; it'll flow more than the standard tuna can size filter.
ah, thanks guys.
a bypass flows oil at startup, or at cold temps without filtering it? correct?
Yes and No. The bypas allows flow when the pressure differential between the dirty (inlet)side of the element and the clean (outlet)side exceeds the set point (lets assume 10 psi). The oil pump is still flowing all of its oil output to the engine, it's just that not all of it is being filtered.
The bypass device allows SOME oil from the dirty side of the element to "bypass the element" and go directly to the clean side to HELP prevent oil starvation, rarely does all the oil flow through the bypass. The noise is things pumping up (lifters) pistons slapping in dry holes. crank ratteling around in the bearings and numerous other things. It is not normally detrimential to your engine if it goes away in a couple of seconds. If the noise does not go away in a reasonable time you have other things to worry about. Low oil level, worn bearings, stuck lifters etc.
On an engine as old as yours, startup noises are very common for all the above reasons. and, (now some will argue this) normal.
The bypass device allows SOME oil from the dirty side of the element to "bypass the element" and go directly to the clean side to HELP prevent oil starvation, rarely does all the oil flow through the bypass. The noise is things pumping up (lifters) pistons slapping in dry holes. crank ratteling around in the bearings and numerous other things. It is not normally detrimential to your engine if it goes away in a couple of seconds. If the noise does not go away in a reasonable time you have other things to worry about. Low oil level, worn bearings, stuck lifters etc.
On an engine as old as yours, startup noises are very common for all the above reasons. and, (now some will argue this) normal.
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The bypass valve assures that only a limited amount of resistance can be attributed to the filter. It "may" work briefly at startup if your oil passages are prone to being empty beyond the filter ..or are long/large and empty. Otherwise, it limits the amount of flow that can be tapped off when the oil pump is in relief. No bypass valve? (or other mechanism) ..no limit to what the filter can present to the flow. It will collapse and, as we've seen with one member who subscribes to the hot rod Chevy "plugged bypass" technique, ..can result in a blocked return.
As Pete C. has enlightened us (and this really was a major alteration in my thinking - thanks) ..the bypass valve is there to protect the engine from oil starvation under all conditions where flow can be reduced (pump in relief).
The bypass valve setting is to protect the media by limiting the maximum stress it will see in terms of PSID.
As Pete C. has enlightened us (and this really was a major alteration in my thinking - thanks) ..the bypass valve is there to protect the engine from oil starvation under all conditions where flow can be reduced (pump in relief).
The bypass valve setting is to protect the media by limiting the maximum stress it will see in terms of PSID.
Thanks everyone
The fram racing filter has a higher burst rating than a regular Fram filter.
I once worked on a 56 Nomad drag team, we lost an engine one night due to Fram Folter colapsing, DON'T trust no Fram no way no more
Hmm - got to learn to spell -- Fram Filter-- or type one
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I'll bet on that too. I think that there's no one that really can trace where this practice started. Some leading edge racer type just did it one day and it became a "must do" for the rest of eternity.
Fords and Mopars have raced just as long as Chevy has. They don't have an in block bypass to defeat. Does anyone see any Ford or Mopar racers worrying about the bypass valve opening? ..or if they do fret over it ..do you see them doing anything about it?
Fords and Mopars have raced just as long as Chevy has. They don't have an in block bypass to defeat. Does anyone see any Ford or Mopar racers worrying about the bypass valve opening? ..or if they do fret over it ..do you see them doing anything about it?
I just put in Fram TG 700km into clean phase.
Good Choice...Fram Tough Gaurd is a good filter at a great price.
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