Fram PH9837 Cut open. Ugh!

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: goodtimes
Frams are no good, look how dirty the element is and how much black junk was left in the can. Looks terrible. Use the Purotater Classic, it will stay nice and clean.


You must be kidding, right? The crud inside the filter you see in the photos is what the filter caught, not what it let through.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: jk_636

And don't mind the Frampires jumping on my build quality statement. I apologize for those trying to hijack your thread.


Your PureOne "quality" comment was the best joke so far today! Thanks.

 

[Spartanfool]

Originally Posted By: jk_636


Good luck with whatever filter/oil combination you decide on.



As stated above, I went with Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w40 with the hope a HDEO will bring some extra cleaning into this OCI.

 

[dishdude]

Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: goodtimes
Frams are no good, look how dirty the element is and how much black junk was left in the can. Looks terrible. Use the Purotater Classic, it will stay nice and clean.


You must be kidding, right? The crud inside the filter you see in the photos is what the filter caught, not what it let through.


It looks like the can caught more than the element.

 

[jhellwig]

Wow what a dumb discussion.

The filter did its job just fine and caught whatever sludge it could.

 

[HTSS_TR]

Other than lack of filter media I don't see anything wrong with this Fram oil filter.

All the crud in can shows that the engine isn't healthy, may be the oil had been in service for too long.

 

[goodtimes]

Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: goodtimes
Frams are no good, look how dirty the element is and how much black junk was left in the can. Looks terrible. Use the Purotater Classic, it will stay nice and clean.


You must be kidding, right? The crud inside the filter you see in the photos is what the filter caught, not what it let through.


Yes of course, because a can full of dirt and a dirty element means it did a good job. Didn't stop someone from saying they look like censored because they are censored.
This Fram worked so well, I would say use another one. Stick with a known good cleaning filter.

 

[Shrubitup]

Originally Posted By: jk_636

I would start doing five minute motor flushes before each oil change


Please elaborate about this technique. Not criticizing. Need to know about this practice if needed.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: dishdude
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: goodtimes
Frams are no good, look how dirty the element is and how much black junk was left in the can. Looks terrible. Use the Purotater Classic, it will stay nice and clean.


You must be kidding, right? The crud inside the filter you see in the photos is what the filter caught, not what it let through.


It looks like the can caught more than the element.


The crud the media stopped just happened to collect some on the inside of the can on the dirty side of the media ... that's all. Typical with lots of filters that have caught lots of stuff ... but most of the debris caught is in the media.

 

[SilverC6]

Originally Posted By: dishdude
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: jk_636
The OCOD looks like [censored] because they are built like [censored]. Nothing new here. There is a reason it earned the name orange can of death. You will be much happier with the build quality of the P1.


There's also a reason why a certain filter got the name Tear-o-lator.

Yeah, you'll be much happier with "build quality" with a filter that fails.

I'm leaving both on the shelf and buying a Wix.


We got a winner!!!!!

Did I miss a Purolator pic in this thread?

I looked back and all I saw was that poorly built FRAM OCOD.

Why all the Purolator smack talk here?

The Purolator Synthetic the OP installed is a good as any filter out there. The efficiency discussion is spurious driven only by FRAM marketing materials.


To the OP, I'd keep changing @ 3,000 miles.

Try Pennzoil Conventional and a nice Microgard from O'Reilly's or a NAPA Silver when you run out of the bargain oil.

 

[ZeeOSix]

^^^ One thing leads to another ... that's how chat boards work; follow along.

 

[SilverC6]

I don't have to "follow" some posters, I know where they are going every time.

 

[BigD1]

The Fram filter looks like it is on the verge of falling apart. I would call those extra guards barely adequate. I guess you get what you pay for when you can walk out the door of Walmart with one for $4.00.

 

[bullwinkle]

I personally don't see anything wrong with the filter-keep running short HDEO OCIs with whatever filter you can get a good deal on-you'll clean it right up. That's not "dirt" in the can-that's carbon.

 

[goodtimes]

Good to get the Wix ahead of the buy out by the new makers of the Purolator Classic. Soon they will work their Teutonic bottom line magic. Down to two US owned I believe. At least the US makes the Very Best Filter, The FRAM ULTRA, and a couple others made by the same company are good too. Score one more.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Actually, that Fram probably did better than some low tier filters would have done under the same use conditions.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: SilverC6
I don't have to "follow" some posters, I know where they are going every time.

Ditto x 5.

 

[SilverC6]

One trick FRAM pony.

 

[IOOIOOI]

I recently cut open a PH3980 from my Chevy S10 4.3 Vortec I bought last November after 5250 miles and I used Mobil 5000. The thing looked absolutely perfect. The ADBV was fine and the pleats were perfectly straight with no tears. I replaced the Fram with a Wix 51036 and will be using Valvoline Maxlife from now on since the truck has 118,000 on it now but I have no fear of using the Fram PH3980.

 

[jk_636]

Originally Posted By: Shrubitup
Originally Posted By: jk_636

I would start doing five minute motor flushes before each oil change


Please elaborate about this technique. Not criticizing. Need to know about this practice if needed.


Really simple.

Before changing the oil, add a can of 5 minute motor flush to the crankcase and run it for 5-8 minutes. Then proceed as you normally would with the oil change. When routinely performed, it breaks up a lot of sludge and eventually cleans out all that gunk that would typically be harder to clean out otherwise. It is good stuff. I have always had good results with it and used it on every vehicle I have ever owned (beside the escape I bought new, obviously it doesn't need it). You would be amazed at some of the crud that the flush will break up!!!