fram oil filters....

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Originally Posted By: SuperBusa
Originally Posted By: webfors
I personally like to see the 'fiber' end cap sealed to the pressure spring over metal on metal like I've seen in a few filters I've opened.


Not following you on that ... care to explain some more?


Sure, here:

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I trust the seal on the left for the same reason I trust the seal on an air filter that has a pliable/soft gasket. You can actually see an imprint in the 'fiber' end cap from the pressure leaf spring on the left filter. There is also no 'play' in the round whole once the leaf spring is inserted in the 'fram' designed filter, whereas there is indeed noticeable play on the metal-metal design.
 
Originally Posted By: webfors

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I trust the seal on the left for the same reason I trust the seal on an air filter that has a pliable/soft gasket. You can actually see an imprint in the 'fiber' end cap from the pressure leaf spring on the left filter. There is also no 'play' in the round whole once the leaf spring is inserted in the 'fram' designed filter, whereas there is indeed noticeable play on the metal-metal design.


I see now what you're talking about. Didn't realize some manufactures used this kind of design for the bypass valve. Hard to say if there is any leakage or not at the metal-to-metal seal on the end cap ... but I agree a gasket or some kind of seal material would be more insurance of no leakage.

The Purolators I've seen cut open have the bypass built into the end cap, so there is no large leaf spring like that with the bypass built into the leaf spring.
 
Many filters have a metal-metal seal somewhere. On a wix filter it's in the top end bypass design, that sits on top of the metal end cap:

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I do like the design of the purolator 14612. So far my favorite filter next to the Roki.
 
I'm just the opposite. I trust a metal to metal seal to be more durable and reliable than one that makes an imprint on cardboard and therefore can giveway in tension.
 
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
I'm just the opposite. I trust a metal to metal seal to be more durable and reliable than one that makes an imprint on cardboard and therefore can giveway in tension.


The frams I've cut open.. well expcept for the one with 20k miles, had a very strong center core where the spring presses against it.

But you have a point. There will be less variability in a metal on metal design. Maybe the expansion of hot metal at the oil comes to operating temp provides an even better seal?
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However, from a pure 'sealing' perspective I think the fiber on metal is a better seal IMHO, otherwise we'd have oil filter canisters with metal gaskets
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Originally Posted By: webfors
...I had the pleasure of going to Advanced Auto. Looked at the filter options and the M1 and K&N for $13.99, and then looked at a SuperTech and they look exactly the same. So I assume they are both made by Champ Labs... but $2.84 -> $13.99. There must some some fancy differences in the media
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They are a lot different inside, but yes, they are all made by Champ.
 
Originally Posted By: river_rat
Originally Posted By: webfors
...I had the pleasure of going to Advanced Auto. Looked at the filter options and the M1 and K&N for $13.99, and then looked at a SuperTech and they look exactly the same. So I assume they are both made by Champ Labs... but $2.84 -> $13.99. There must some some fancy differences in the media
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They are a lot different inside, but yes, they are all made by Champ.


Other than different media and quality of adbv, what other differences are there? The design of the filter is the same correct?
 
Don't judge a book by it's cover. I hear all this Fram bashing because of it's construction, but what are the facts. What is the proof that steel end caps are better than paper? The area where paper end caps seal against the media has very little differential pressure across it. I would be more concerned about the center support, on Frams it is still steel and on some others is now plastic. (this is where all the differential pressure is felt.). As far as the filter media is concerned, comparing surface area of two different filter materials tells us nothing about how efficient the filter is or how long it will last. What is needed are facts. How efficient are the filters and what is the flow and differential pressure across them for their total lifetime? These are the questions to be asked and not this filter "looks" better than that one.
 
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Originally Posted By: webfors
Other than different media and quality of adbv, what other differences are there? The design of the filter is the same correct?

Ya, like Robenstein said, they have metal endcaps holding the media, metal center tube, and rather than a double purpose adbv/bypass, they have a separate bypass valve...rubberized steel with coil springs. No resemblance to the Ecore design at all when you open them up. Pretty heavy duty.
 
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