Fram Endurance oil filters.

If you or anyone else likes leaky oil filters that reduce their efficiency then go for it, but trying to justify them in every way you can think of is just trying to convince yourself that they are still "worth using".
I don’t need to convince myself. I’m naturally curious and always like to delve into things. Granted, I don’t have your expertise, and quite frankly welcome your comments. Unfortunately, I’ve incurred the “wrath” of someone in the process.
Now, I’m just going distill my thoughts…
A “Dull Samurai” is still considerably sharper than any other blade I can replace it with.
Would I like to see it sharpened up? Hell yeah!
 
Here are the thoughts posted by the WC HIMSELF (Who made Video). It's in the Comments section and he's responding to a previous comment:

@WhipCityWrencher
9 months ago (edited)
@ssalzillo1 Hi Scott,I don't know which filter is superior. They all have their good and bad points. This small space between the bypass valve and end cap wouldn't be a deal breaker for me, definitely, more oil will get filtered than not filtered. I still think these are very good oil filters.
I'm sure we'll see comments to this post regarding the faults....I'm simply posting HIS COMMENT AND THOUGHTS on the matter. No one can dispute it. PERIOD
So does the part that squeezes by unfiltered just come back around again or is it getting into the clean side of the filter?
 
Whatever leaks past the filter media goes through the engine. It has another chance to get caught the next time around, but the leak is going on constantly regardless.
 
Whatever leaks past the filter media goes through the engine. It has another chance to get caught the next time around, but the leak is going on constantly regardless.
Well that kind of defeats the purpose now doesn't it? Last I checked the only time anything bypasses the media is on really cold starts or high rpm operation. So 90 percent of the time nothing is bypass the filter
 
Well that kind of defeats the purpose now doesn't it? Last I checked the only time anything bypasses the media is on really cold starts or high rpm operation. So 90 percent of the time nothing is bypass the filter
A decent leak at the leaf spring to end cap "seal" is like a constant leaking bypass valve.
 
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Was the filter in the video a unique situation or has a pattern been established with the Endurance line? I just slapped two on my Hondas last month...
Lots of C&Ps here showing a varying level of ruffled leaf springs on Champ Labs made filters. Some look OK, others not so good.
 
So I did the math of one Endurance I cut up open. The dimensions of both sides of the gap created due to the very poorly endplate spring proved rather shocking.

My measurements, when multiplied out, equaled 0.22”. It seems a few in this thread really tried to play off the leaking area as non consequential. Personally, if I knew of a nearly quarter inch hole in the filter media, it certainly would be a serious concern.
 
I cut up three endurance filters I had on hand. All had the same rippled area.
Well fantastic. Since I doubt that it will grenade the engine I will swap mine out during the next oil change for each car. Maybe a little earlier than their usual 5k miles. Purolator's aren't still tearing, right? I like my reinforced backing so I guess I'll shell out for the Boss line now.

Stupid Fram. This just adds to my irritation towards them since they nuked the OG Ultra design.
 
Well fantastic. Since I doubt that it will grenade the engine I will swap mine out during the next oil change for each car. Maybe a little earlier than their usual 5k miles. Purolator's aren't still tearing, right? I like my reinforced backing so I guess I'll shell out for the Boss line now.

Stupid Fram. This just adds to my irritation towards them since they nuked the OG Ultra design.
What's the boss line?
 
so, is the general consensus that the Fram Endurance Filter is crap now? I have one on the shelf of the exact model in the video at the top of this thread that was destined for my wife's Subaru Outback (I won't re-start the bypass pressure discussion). I mainly bought it for the better anti-drainback valve, as the car would start off with a rattle every once in a while on the old "Blue" Subaru filters (I last installed a Supertech MP which has made that better, but you can't get them here anymore). SO, should I just pitch the Endurance into the trash?
 
....... SO, should I just pitch the Endurance into the trash?
As I've replied to similar queries before, just depends on how much the FE oil bypass bothers/concerns you. It's certainly not going to "grenade" the engine. I think running the one FE you have left, ok imo. Fwiw, I did c&p of a MP7317 off a neighbor's 04 Civic, posted a flashlight test with it, didn't pass. Same seal area type as FE. As expected, Civic still running fine.
 
For those looking to spend $16.99 on a Boss. If the louvers are open they are built well. But efficiency is 99%@46 microns. Probably the same as a leaking Endurance…
 
frustrating...seems like every time I try to settle on a brand it goes down the tubes. I survived the original "OCOD" wars, switched to Purolator "Tearolator" then went to WIX, which is apparently now crap, the original black subaru's became "blue"...I tried out an Ultra for my Traverse, but recently someone mistakenly sent me 6 AC-Delcos instead of the 1 I ordered, so will be OEM there for a while (I know, plastic cage). Since the Subaru s are "back to black" i might just go back to them, although i just read another thread that these are "rock filters". Maybe I should just stop reading this forum and go with "ignorance is bliss";)
 
For those looking to spend $16.99 on a Boss. If the louvers are open they are built well. But efficiency is 99%@46 microns. Probably the same as a leaking Endurance…
I felt compelled to research that claim and it looks like you are correct. The Mann+Hummel spec sheets I can find show it at 99% >46 microns. And yet, the Purolator One's are 99% at 17 microns. I doubt that 29 micron range is causing any damage (a white blood cell is 25 microns in diameter), but it definitely seems clear that many high end filters trade efficiency for longevity.

I am growing tired of the marketing and I think I am just going to buy whatever mid-tier filter doesn't have any manufacturing defects being discussed on BITOG and replace it every 5,000 miles.
 
I felt compelled to research that claim and it looks like you are correct. The Mann+Hummel spec sheets I can find show it at 99% >46 microns. And yet, the Purolator One's are 99% at 17 microns. I doubt that 29 micron range is causing any damage (a white blood cell is 25 microns in diameter), but it definitely seems clear that many high end filters trade efficiency for longevity.

I am growing tired of the marketing and I think I am just going to buy whatever mid-tier filter doesn't have any manufacturing defects being discussed on BITOG and replace it every 5,000 miles.
Yep. I believe even the One has even been downgraded to worse efficiency, but much better than the Boss. It’s a hard sell with high efficiency well built filters available from $5-$10 IMO.
 
Yep. I believe even the One has even been downgraded to worse efficiency, but much better than the Boss. It’s a hard sell with high efficiency well built filters available from $5-$10 IMO.
Well well well. I decided to reach out to M+H to see if they had updated test results:

"Hello,

Can you please provide me with the most recent ISO filtration efficiency test results or specification sheets for your Purolator line of oil filters (Purolator, PurolatorONE, PurolatorBOSS, Purolator 20K)?

Thank you."

And this is what I got back :unsure:

"No sir, we cannot. The only information available is what is listed on our website. www.purolatornow.com

Thank you,

Mann+Hummel Product Information

Product Information (800) 526-4250)"

Needless to say I will be reconsidering using any M+H-made filters.
 
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