So you're saying this specific application is different than all other FE filters even though it is made by Champ Labs? Or that this application is made by Fram unlike all the other application? 'What I can see', looks like the typical Champ Labs made FE since they were introd. Same as Amsoil and RP. 'To me', be out of the ordinary to have one application different that all the others. But with FB, possible I suppose. All that said, doesn't change anything in my previous post.
looks that way. the ADBV is Fram, and the wire backing is Fram versus the champion backing.
I cut the media open with dykes to inspect the wire backing.The FL820s are laughing at that media tear
I'm going to have my wife go 7500 this time around. The SS still had some new oilgolden color left in it from that drain.
color means nothing. a UOA is the only way to tell the condition. that amsoil should be able to accomplish 10-15k miles without issue.
True. I'm confident the oil will go that far, I'm just not personally comfortable going that long.
fair enough. i’m all for botique oils but in this case some Valvoline EP HM, PUP, M1 EP HM would accomplish the same job at 7500 miles.
You're right, for me it's also peace of mind. I'd rather have the Amsoil SS or HPL and not use it to its full potential than use an oil that's readily available on the shelf to the masses.
Yep, it's the SAE thread equivalent of the metric thread, ~.75" longer 7317 vs the shorty 6607. So, 4386 vs shorty 4967.
Nylon backing are super strong. Harder to pull apart than the metal ones.
Thanks. I used the 7317 on my Nissan's also compared to the 6607.
No it’s not, not on an oil formulated for long drains. I’ve run it in 0-20 flavor for 12-15k oci’s for the last 70k miles, uoa backed. Pretty sure my motor is about to blowup though!
Now that I have an OF cutter, I will try others to find a favorite. From my observations.
The leaf spring doesn’t appear abnormal. The top and bottom hole, actually there’s no orientation. There’s 4 vertical bumps on the inside. That creates the gap. Because of this, I cannot definitively isolate a leaf spring issue.
Do the the 4 nubs that contact the side of the leaf spring prevent the leaf spring to sit all the way down in the hole? The flat surface on the leaf spring is suppose to sit down flat on that raised ring around the circumference of the end cap hole.
Bingo
