FP with 1997 Lexus LX450

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Andrewsreef

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Jacksonville, FL
Hi, after hearing so much good about this stuff, I decided to try it with my LX450 with now 84k. I have posted questions about this truck before as I just recently got it working well (bad maint by prior owner)new head gasket and completely new EGR system. Truck had a lot of carbon buildup (I may have caused this with 93 octange gas).

I have problems with this truck knocking on 87 octane gas. Had the work done and knocking stopped for about 3k and came back. I started the FP a few weeks ago before a long trip (1,400 miles or so from Jax to NC mountains). The FP really helped the truck idle better and run much smoother. No knocking even in the mountain road climbs. Now that I am back in Jax FL, I am getting a little pinging with 87 octane and 1 or even 2 ounces per 5 gallon of gas. It is better but not totally gone. Not sure why it went away and came back here. Should I try more FP or 89 octane gas and 1 once per 5 gallons?

Thanks for the help.
 
FP did a really solid job quelling ping in my previous car, a V-6 Camry. But it was not a 100% solution. To get that, you'll probably just have to move up to the 89, or perhaps try keeping a mix in the tank 89 and 87, with the FP, whatever you find works for you. Good luck with it.

Oh yeah, I've also found that in my current car, the engine is much more demanding of octane. While it's "legal" in the owner's manual to use even 87 (I've got a G35 sedan, which has a slightly detuned version of the VQ35 V-6), I find the power loss and ping unacceptable. 89 is better, and better still with FP, but I've given up and just use 93 with FP, which gives all-the-time flawless performance.
 
Andrew,

Go with the 89 octane and FP. I have done this with my 2k Maxima 10:5/1 compression with no knocking/pinging or loss in fuel economy.

I believe the 10:1 or above need at least 89 octane based on my observation. A buddy (board member) has a 99 Avalon who tried 87 and FP had a substanstial loss in fuel economy.
 
My fuel economy is way down from when I used to run 93 (well down 1MPG but with a truck that gets 13-14 around town that is 8% reduction). However, my owners manual states this truck should be able to run on 87. With the head work, my compression may have increased some. My concern about running 89 is that it may cause more carbon???? Will 89 and the FP be the ticket for this truck?

The FP has really helped with the smoothness at idle and more. I really like the results so far.

Thanks
 
Andrew, obviously if you have pinging/knocking you need to step up the octane. Forget the 'more carbon' bs. You already have carbon buildup that requires the octane increase.

I think the 'better octane' fuel causing more carbon thing is a another bs internet circulating entity. It's a Lexus for goodness sake...not a kia...what octane/type of fuel do you think you should use? Regular?
 
Dr. T, this truck is actually a LandCruiser with a Lexus badge. It does call for 87 octane and I know plenty of others who can run theirs on the 87 who don't have the knocking. Some have this problem some don't. I am the lucky one with the problem. I was hoping the FP alone would do the trick but I will try the 89 on the next fill up.

On another note, I agree with another Owner who says his knocks on days with swings in temp. On days with the temp up or down mine is worse. Like today, I have had no knocking but the temp has stabalized over the past 4 days or so. I am wondering if this is caused by a computer issue with the timing.

Thanks
 
quote:
Originally posted by Dr. T:
I think the 'better octane' fuel causing more carbon thing is a another bs internet circulating entity. It's a Lexus for goodness sake...not a kia...what octane/type of fuel do you think you should use? Regular?
Click to expand...
Actually, I think what you said is even more of an issue in terms of internet BS. As if the nameplate on the car has anything to do with the octane requirement? As if "93 octane" is somehow a magical formula fit for use in BMWs, Mercedes and Lexus's while "87 octane" is mostly water and monkey vomit only suitable for Kias and Hyundais...please.
 
quote:
Originally posted by John in the ATL:
Andrew,

Go with the 89 octane and FP. I have done this with my 2k Maxima 10:5/1 compression with no knocking/pinging or loss in fuel economy.

I believe the 10:1 or above need at least 89 octane based on my observation. A buddy (board member) has a 99 Avalon who tried 87 and FP had a substanstial loss in fuel economy.
Click to expand...
Really depends on the engine, I'm running 10.5:1 compression on 87 octane with zero knock.
 
quote:
Originally posted by EmbarkChief:
Really depends on the engine, I'm running 10.5:1 compression on 87 octane with zero knock.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
I was referencing the 10:1+ Japanese multi-valve V6s, Honda, Toyota, and Nissan which specify at least 91 octane. My observation was based on results that I have seen with the use of FP.

What model of vehicle do you have?
Click to expand...
 
Wll, to each his own....obviously you don't need 'performance octane' for a non-performance vehicle.

Last week at the Detroit auto show...pulled open the gas filler door on Porsche Turbo. It said "93 min. octane". Good luck finding that all the time!

My BMW says "91 min.". The operative word a lot of times is "minimum". I've seen this a lot..and owner's then extrapolate in thinking this means that all I need is the minumum.
 
i believe your 2k maxima has a knock sensor so its impossible to get knocking out of it and for the G35 id use premium if i were u
 
Andrew

Does yours knock under various throttle positions, or only some?

My LX-450 only seems to knock (just a little) when pulling from a stop under moderate throttle. Very light or somewhat heavy throttle and there is no knock (with 87). When I step up to 89, it doesn't knock at all under any throttle condition.

I've tried the Lucas Upper Cylinder Lube and Schaeffer's Soy Ultra...neither seemed to make a difference on fuel economy or the knock. Haven't tried FP.

I did run a can of BG-44K through the beast when I first got it, come to think of it. Maybe that helped...being new at the time I didn't really have a baseline.
pat.gif



Tim
 
Tim, mine would be the same. Knocks from a stop at moderate throttle only. Not under heave throttle or load. That would explain why I got no knocking under load in the mountains even pulling the steep roads.

I still can't help but think this is yet another EGR problem. My port to the EGR was totally plugged when they did my headgasket repair. When this was fixed along with the headgasket, I had no knocking at all. I have replaced all 3 components in the last year.

I guess its time to try 89 octane and see if it along with the FP does the trick. If it comes back in a few months, it will be time to clean the throttle body/EGR port again which seems like BS for this truck.

Thanks for the info.

Andrew
 
My naturally aspirated 3800 V6 will produce measureable knock on the scanner on any fuel less than 92 octane and no ethanol. It states in the owner's manual that 87 is the "minimum" octane rating allowable for this car. By no means does that mean "optimum" though. It will run fine on the lower grades, but obviously due to knock retard, performance suffers.

I usually run 87 or 89 with 10% ethanol in it in the cooler months or if I'm not going to be giving it an extensive flogging, but for best performance I need to run a quality non-ethanol premium gasoline.

My engine is 9.4:1 compression ratio, but has iron heads which increase the demand for higher octane.

BTW, an EGR problem will cause pings and knock at light load partial throttle conditions. If you're getting knock at WOT or close to it, then your fuel is of insufficient octane for your engine's requirements.
 
You should not have any knock and their is a problem!! You need to get to the bottom of it fast. Spark Knock is not a funy matter and can cuae issues longterm. If the head was off all carbon should have been cleaned from all surfaces anyway. I doubt carbon is the issue any ways. I have never seen carbon issues on any toyota with fuel injection and less then 200,000 miles! Their is something not right. You need to check the harness, igniter,coil/coils,spark plugs,etc........

Now in a warm climate in the summer I could see some know with 87 even if that is allowed. It would normaly occur at high power levels combined with low speed like towing,going through the mountains, hard acceleration and a/c going.

It does not matter what the manual says!If you have knock with 87 octane you need to either go up a notch or fix the problem. My experince has shown that so long as you stay within factory recomendations you are normaly good to run lowest octane you can for the temp. Usualy winter 87 works fine but come summer you had better have 89 or higher in the south!

My Family has owned Toyota's since 1971 and we have never had spark knock as a norm! Their was always something wrong or bad tank of gas!! We have owned everysingle engine Toyota has ever made available in the USA or Germany! I still have a carburated 1982 Starlet and it does not knock!

P.S. Running a higher octane is not going to cause carbon build up. We have never had carbon issue on any fuel injected Toyota we have ever owned. We have lived in Ga.,Germany,Kansas,TX,CA, and MI. I suspect that any carbon issues you are haveing are result of cheap 5W30 dino oil with extended high speed operation in hot climate with extended drains!

[ January 30, 2005, 08:12 PM: Message edited by: JohnBrowning ]
 
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