Four wheel disc brake lining life vs. disc/drum

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This came up in another thread, (about 1/2-way down on first page):

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=24;t=002402;p=1

The question has to do with the lining life of front versus rear brakes in these two system types.

"Do brake front/rear re-lines correspond more closely in four wheel disc systems as compared to disc/drum systems over a given set of miles?"

We all know that rear drums are prone not only to being out of adjustment (rear adjusters are rarely that effective, and proper lubrication is often not present compounding the problem), but that they may or may not be effectively proportioned as to pressure vis-a-vis weight actually carried versus factory settings. Also, dirt and grease can accumulate in some instances.

I recently came across a TSB concerning DODGE where the factory stated that front relines IN EXCESS of 2x as many on the front over the rear was excessive.

I am wondering -- beyond the usual explanation of "the front brakes carry the weight", etc -- if those with properly-maintained 4-wheel disc brakes are seeing rear pad replacement at only 1 to 1.5x as often. (Preferably, less).

(And, by properly maintained, I do mean calipers operating to design at each wheel [inner/outer apply force], and braking pressures equal side-to-side, not only properly front-to-rear).

I've always been able to run out to 70,000 miles or more on front disc relines (won't ever catch my old man with his 90,000 mile mark it looks like); and, over the past five years or so I've been more diligent in adjusting rear drums about every 5-7,000 miles or less (same as tire rotation & recording remaining tread depth.) I find that by the second front reline, or 135-145,000 miles that the rear drums need relining as well.

We've just gotten our first 4-whl disc car (the Lexyota noted in signature), and I've been able to teach my wife in techniques of longer brake and tire life. Our vehicles see no track time, but towing and city traffic are a constant over the past thirty years.

Your comments and experiences welcomed.
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The rear discs are proportioned to give less braking than the fronts. Just like rear drums.
Ideally, they will last 2-3 times as long as the fronts.
Rear discs give more problems than fronts, however.
Everything from parking brake problems, to adjustment, to uneven wear and rust. especially sticking.
Racing where there are turns, require rear discs brakes for best performance.
ABS works best with rear discs.
I'm happy with my normal [self energizing] drums for the street.
 
Tips for trouble free rear disk brakes:
Brake really hard at least once every day in the season of road salt .. check rearview mirror first
smile.gif

Always use parking brake (when not driving).

First advice will reduce the chance of getting corroded calipers/rotors and second advice will reduce possibility for corroded parking brake cable.
 
My '98 V-10 Dodge 4X4 farm pickup needed new front brake pads every 10-15k miles, and rotors nearly as often. I had many neighbors whose Dodge 3/4 & 1-ton farm pickups of that vintage showed the same horrible wear. The rear drums showed me no real wear troubles at just under 60,000 when I traded it off to save fuel and save brake money. That's despite the drums being found completely packed with mud at one service.

There is a proportioning valve (or whatever it's called) on those trucks, at least if you have the factory tow package, which alters the front-rear brake bias with load on the rear axle.

This Dodge problem is primarily the fault of completely idiotic design of the front brakes. It's a single-piston floating caliper on a relatively small rotor given the size of the truck. They end up binding on the slider pins if you ever leave the pavement.

IN ANY CASE, my current Neon showed very little wear at 50,000 miles on the rear drum when I replaced the front pads and resurfaced the rotors. My '90 Shadow (with 4-wheel discs) showed no evidence of wear whatsoever on the rear brakes even after 90,000 miles. At that point I had replaced the front pads once. On that car, hard braking would lock the rears before the fronts even when fully loaded.

Just some experiences I've had.
 
Disk/drum Vs. disk/disk has nothing to do with lining wear.

Lining wear depends on driving conditions/habits, and lining material and friction surface composition.

Good luck finding a means of objective comparison.
 
Rear disks will need regular attention to the pad slides if you want to maximize pad/rotor life. They dont 'move' as much as the fronts & tend to crud up sooner. As norwegian oil says, use the parking brake!! So many fail to do this & it will lead to parking brake system failure ($$$). It seems like most manufacturers these days have gone to P-brake shoes in the hat of the rear rotors. Exersizing them is a must. Give the choice, I kinda like the oil school rear drums for long term trouble free use.
G/luck
Joel
 
Willy G, drum brakes go out of adjustment, enough that the drum linings can get to where they barely make contact. Have seen it before.

Thanks for the other replies.

Have been using parking brake religiously for over twenty years when an old boy told me about parking lot accidents wherein a parked car was hit -- if brake not on -- then rear wheels turning as car was absorbing impact would tear the guts out of an auto transmission. Brake on -- solidly -- then tire tread took the brunt. Sold me.
 
so far my 4wdisk camry is about 3:1.

how on earth did you spend $750 on brake parts? New rotors are $50ea, pads $50/4, even for 2 vehicles that's some high $$.
 
my experience has been 2 changes up fron and on the second a week later changed the back disk. so 2-1 ratio on disk. 116K miles on 99 mountaineer

my disk up and drum in back is 2 times up front so far and never looked a back drum. 99K miles. on 99 Malibu also read that when i back up to apply brake heavily to adjust the rear drum. do that every morning out of driveway.

never had luck turning rotors so the first change just put on new pads the second change on both just bought new rotors. about 750 dollars in a month just on brakes and i did all the labor. wouldnt even want to know what a "shop" would have charged.
 
quote:

Willy G, drum brakes go out of adjustment, enough that the drum linings can get to where they barely make contact. Have seen it before.

True.

I am just used to the self-adjusting drums in my old watercooled VWs. They (maybe other, too) have a neat springloaded wedge than operates when the brakes are applied in reverse...adjusting the shoes out. After 2 or 3 sets of shoes, though, the drums are worn & the shoes don't contact much if worn 50% or more. I don't think I have used a brake spoon for 20 years!
 
The only car I have seen where the fronts outlasted the rears was a 1981 Toyota Supra. It was about 2:1, the inverse of most cars with 4-wheel disks. My 325i BMW has pretty even wear front/rear, but it also has a perfect 50/50 weight distribution vs the vast majority of nose-heavy cars, light trucks and vans.
 
My Crown Vics get about 70k on Bendix before all four disc brakes are shot. These cars in particular seem to wear equally on all four. (Maybe being RWD?)
 
99.5-on VW producs chew up rear pads like baseball players chew Redman. It is a combination of brake bias and soft pads. But, mostly soft pads. It is not uncommon to see a Jetta with 75k miles, that has had 3 sets of rear OE pads, and the OE front pads are 75%!
 
Most modern Troopers/Acura SLX/Holden Jackaroos, (same SUV)have brake pads replaced on the rear at about 84K miles the front pads last 110K miles. I replace my rears at 84K with about 15/20% left. My fronts are at 103K and I will replace soon. Rotors are far more durable than most and seldom warp.
 
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