3.73 - All the Hybrids are the same rear end ratio.
Ford 10R80 Fluid
- Thread starter TacoFergie
- Start date
Hmmm, wonder if this is partially why HPL recommends Green CC ATF rather than the slightly-thicker-than-44*-water ULV stuff?
Think about it- if you fill the trans with ULV and then add Platinum or Red… it’s even thinner than the factory fill! If there’s one thing oils thinner than 2.6cP do, it’s NOT protect against wear!!
This makes me wonder if I should add LG Platinum or LG Red when I do my drain and fill.
I just ordered a PPE deep pan and Motorcraft ULV along with Amsoil driveline fluids. So I’ll be installing the pan and changing fluid somewhat soon. From everything I’ve read, LG Platinum seems like the way to go for the 10R80.
As for NextGen…I love the claims and enthusiasm I’ve seen in the videos. But I have yet to see a single review of their products for the 10R80 or 10L80. With his claims that even dealers are using his product to fix the inadequacies of those transmission, you’d think there’d be at least a few reviews out there considering the amount of those transmissions on the road. But yet I’ve seen nothing. It’s not that I don’t believe in NextGen’s products, I just like to see some 3rd party affirmation before I’d jump onboard. Then again, it seems like everyone that builds 10R80’s holds their secrets close.
Thicker, not thinner. When you add the Red/Plat viscosity goes up ever so slightly.
"The viscosities at 100°C increased between zero and 2.5%"
I can't remember what the visc of the HPL Green CC was, it it somewhere between ULV and LV? I could look it up, but I'm trying to pay for a vacation at the moment.
I wanted a Powerboost so bad. But when I shopped for 4-5 months in my area within 5hrs, all I could find was either high mileage (60k plus) or ones that were clearly used as a work truck. If I were after an XLT, it would have been easy pickings. But I wanted a Lariat or above for 4wd Auto. 4A is invaluable in poor weather and super simple for my wife to use when she needs to use the truck.
Ok, once you’re on the highway (45+) go ahead and kick it back into normal shift mode? Besides, the sport mode at 2600rpm makes it much easier for squeeze & shoot driving, rather than in normal mode you step on the gas, wait for the trans to drop 6 gears, then wait for the turbos to spool… and by then, the only 300’ long passing zone in the next 8 miles is behind you, and the semi that’s going 7 under is still in front.
Like I said, I’ve done test after test when I’m doing city (0-55 since I live in the sticks) driving, and every single time, even if it’s only 0.2-0.3mpg difference, sport mode comes out with better mileage because higher rpm means the way the Eco’s turbos are designed, they will produce less boost.
Less boost = better mileage 100% of the time.
It has certainly been doing no harm for me, and we jumped in the truck with 1000 miles on it and took off this past summer to SD towing our camper. Almost a 5000 mile round trip with 95% of it hauling 6600+ pounds.
Green is roughly equivalent to an LV fluid.
That was certainly the case for us when towing. My truck will pull 10th on the interstate no problem at 70mph with the camper, but I get about 1-2mpg better locked down into 8th.
Hmm, they must have revised Platinum since I last looked, or maybe I was referencing LV fluid in my head. Either way, I think you’ll agree, at 1/32 of total capacity and maybe 50-60% thicker, we’re almost talking about the regular MOE for a mass-produced fluid.
I did the math, I think correctly… even Platinum at recommended dosage in Mercon ULV… is like a 0.7cSt difference at 100*C. Hopefully we can agree that small of a variation in itself is not going to be the cause of any perceived differences. Not knocking your choices cuz if your 10R80 fails it was your choice (same with HPL Green CC for mine), but I’m personally willing to bet your personal success is likely due to your fastidious maintenance program rather than the additive.
Yep, totally willing to agree to most all of that.
But I've also seen people over on the Ranger forum complain of badly shifting 10R80's and make no other change other than to add the Platinum and it completely cured the funk.
So, I still think for me at least, that it is a combination of the two...belt AND suspenders so to speak.
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What engine and gear combination do you have?
My daily commute to/from work is about 8 miles at 30-35mph for 3 miles and 50mph for the rest with about 7-8 stops in between. I average roughly 17.5mpg (hand calculated, 18mpg on the dash) in normal mode. When I’ve put it in into Sport mode for a couple days it seems to drop almost 1mpg on the dash, though I haven’t tried long term to see how it hand calculates.
Crew Cab Eco & 3.55s. 2019 STX with a few bolt-ons and an E30 tune from 5 Star Tuning. When I’m on the 87 Perf/Tow tune I can usually keep around 21mpg or so for the full 36gal tank, depending on how many speed bumps
I need to pass.On the E30 tune (500+ rwhp/600+ tq) I usually drop about 1.5mpg, partly because that torque is more intoxicating than the finest bourbon or the wildest “adult” club… that mountain of mass mover will break the tires loose anywhere from 40-70mph, so you can see why the E30 hit is much more than the jump from E10 to E30 would normally entail.
Ahh, I wonder if the tune has something to do with it? I haven’t had enough longer road trips to know how it’ll perform on the highway. But mostly city driving I’ve been around 18mpg which I’m pretty impressed with considering it’s 3mpg better than my previous 2015 Tacoma. lolCrew Cab Eco & 3.55s. 2019 STX with a few bolt-ons and an E30 tune from 5 Star Tuning. When I’m on the 87 Perf/Tow tune I can usually keep around 21mpg or so for the full 36gal tank, depending on how many speed bumps
On the E30 tune (500+ rwhp/600+ tq) I usually drop about 1.5mpg, partly because that torque is more intoxicating than the finest bourbon or the wildest “adult” club… that mountain of mass mover will break the tires loose anywhere from 40-70mph, so you can see why the E30 hit is much more than the jump from E10 to E30 would normally entail.
I am considering a tune as well at some point. I’m between MPT or Livernois. I kinda lean towards Livernois because of their close ties with Ford so I would expect them to have some inside info that other tuners may not. I’m not looking to squeeze the last ounce of power out of it, mainly just reliable improvements with improved shifting and no more speed limiter. Even though I live in the land of corn and ethanol, I’d rather just stick with 91 octane for ease of use.
Even on stock (which is very rare) sport mode delivers better mpg due to less boost per throttle amount.
Tow mode also avoids gear skipping.
My 10r80 had really bad 3-5 shifts, twice weekly never reaching 5, flashing the lamp and coasting off the road in neutral, often enough that I had plenty of time to experiment. Forcing to 4th instead had the same problem. It wasn’t achieving 5th that seemed the problem, it felt like leaving third was the problem.
LG red radically transmissionformed it, and I only used 1/4 dose. After 2 fluid changes and getting a feel for it, I suspected valve body issues, something was sticking. I figured if that was the case, it wouldn’t take much, and that was correct. Iirc the first dose and fix was at 30k. It started acting up again around maybe 60k, where I did a D/F and another partial dose. At 70k it started messing up and an adaptive reset fixed it. At 80 I sold the truck. (Mileage numbers are approximate, it’s been a few years.)
LG red, even in very small dose, was quite good. When the 10R80 is on good behavior, it drives very well.
