Got a question to the group. I "sort of" winterized the boat a month ago. Drained all the water out of the jackets and block. Put stabilizer in the fuel and ran it for a while. Boat may have 3 hours on it this season, if that, so no need to bother changing the oils, lubes, outdrive fluids, etc. etc. I didn't "fog" the motor. Boat is parked and inside and I don't want to have to pull it back out. So, for protection purposes, could I just pop the spark plugs and spray the insides down with WD-40 and get the same protection results as in the fogging spray? I'm quite confident that the stabilizer got through the engine. I had about a gallon left in the tank then added stabilizer and then ran if for about 30 minutes.
fogging.....
- Thread starter Schmoe
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Not WD40 use Outboard Motor Oil mixed with MMO
WD40 has little rust prevention capability. I’d just go to the auto parts store and buy a can of Fogging Oil. Spray it down the sparkplug holes the same way you did the WD40 and you should be good to go. I’m with you on the oil and lube. I wouldn’t bother with only three hours of run time.
you have a 3.0 don't you? That's what I got.
All I do is pull the plugs (super easy), spray foggin oil in each cylinder about 2 seconds worth,
spin engine over with plugs out, then replace plugs and call it done. I don't see why wd-40, pb blaster, or other similar spray wouldn't work. Just don't use to much where it'll effect the oil in the cranckcase.
I like spinning the engine over with plugs out, it spins faster as opposed to with the plugs in, and helps distribute the oil sprayed in around.
I've given up on spraying the foggin oil into the carb when engine running, too much smoke, too much oil film in the carb throat. And that has to get into the oil which I don't like since it's usually just changed.
All I do is pull the plugs (super easy), spray foggin oil in each cylinder about 2 seconds worth,
spin engine over with plugs out, then replace plugs and call it done. I don't see why wd-40, pb blaster, or other similar spray wouldn't work. Just don't use to much where it'll effect the oil in the cranckcase.
I like spinning the engine over with plugs out, it spins faster as opposed to with the plugs in, and helps distribute the oil sprayed in around.
I've given up on spraying the foggin oil into the carb when engine running, too much smoke, too much oil film in the carb throat. And that has to get into the oil which I don't like since it's usually just changed.
Spraying it in the plug holes will not coat the crank and rod bearings, this where rust and corrosion will take it's biggest toll.
Another method if your engine has an oil pump lever is to hold or wire it wide open. Let the engine idle until the smoke starts really getting thick or it coughs from a plug trying to foul.
A side advantage to fogging I've found is the hard carbon gets softened by the oil when sitting for a few months. Noticed this doing preseason rebuilds, the carbon comes off ez if the engine had been fogged.
Another method if your engine has an oil pump lever is to hold or wire it wide open. Let the engine idle until the smoke starts really getting thick or it coughs from a plug trying to foul.
A side advantage to fogging I've found is the hard carbon gets softened by the oil when sitting for a few months. Noticed this doing preseason rebuilds, the carbon comes off ez if the engine had been fogged.
when i winterized mine, i drained the block and then refilled it with rv anitfreeze or good ol prestone, to remove all the air. or as much as possible.
I operated in coastal waters with a open cooling system.
had 17 years on her when i sold it this past april
before the season began i drained the anit stuff into a container and then disposed of it accordingly
then tuned her up, and ran all season
I miss her now
I operated in coastal waters with a open cooling system.
had 17 years on her when i sold it this past april
before the season began i drained the anit stuff into a container and then disposed of it accordingly
then tuned her up, and ran all season
I miss her now
Best thing I did for my saltwater outboard was to plumb a hot water faucet at the shop. When I get home it gets a hot water flush and rinse off. Wouldn't think it would matter, hot vs.cold, but before I used to frequently replace stuck t-stats, and find corrision in the waterpump impeller housing. No more, I think the hot dissolves the salt away better.
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