Well, with gas prices the way they are and what little time I have in my schedule with the family, I'm planning on just using the Seadoo this summer. Not a lot, but some....put it this way, the Seadoo has yet to hit the water. So with that in mind, I'm going to let my boat sit out all summer. I winterized it last year and did all the stuff your suppose to do, new oil and filter, new outdrive fluid, fogged the engine, etc. etc. Is there anything else I can do for a longer storage time? I put stabile in the gas last fall and tried to run the engine out as long as I could without running out of gas, so I'd suspect their would probably be about a gallon or two in the tank. Should I take the carb off? Oh yeah, it's carbed and not injected. Was thinking about buying some long length hose and try to manually siphon all the gas out of it. I've fixed many engines that had their fuel varnished from the insides and I don't want that happening to my stuff. Could I just keep putting stabile in it once a year and be good? What about using some octane booster?
super long time storage
- Thread starter Schmoe
- Start date
- Status
If there's significant fuel in the tank, keep plenty of fresh stabilizer in the fuel. Especially with the E10 that has been pumped recently, people are reporting more fuel related problems with use and storage.
Also consider fleet additive products like FP3000. But no matter what you do, the fuel is going to be flat after a year; there is nothing you can do to avoid octane depletion. I've found octane boosters useless. If possible, try to add some fresh high test when it's start up time.
Otherwise, if it's just a couple of gallons, siphon the tank dry and let the engines use up what's in the bowls.
A year's storage isn't too bad. I had a boat that had sat out for five full seasons on 3/4 tank. The fuel and engines were well stabilized and cared for throughout. They started up without any coaxing after all that time (on five year old fuel in the carb bowls). So it can be done.
Also consider fleet additive products like FP3000. But no matter what you do, the fuel is going to be flat after a year; there is nothing you can do to avoid octane depletion. I've found octane boosters useless. If possible, try to add some fresh high test when it's start up time.
Otherwise, if it's just a couple of gallons, siphon the tank dry and let the engines use up what's in the bowls.
A year's storage isn't too bad. I had a boat that had sat out for five full seasons on 3/4 tank. The fuel and engines were well stabilized and cared for throughout. They started up without any coaxing after all that time (on five year old fuel in the carb bowls). So it can be done.
If stored inside to avoid temperature shifts causing moisture condensation, siphoning tanks dry would be a good idea. If outside storage, I'd want to keep them brimming full,,,siphon it out and use in auto every few months, full tanks don't sweat.
Bob
Bob
A year is no problem. If you are concerned, put stabil or similar in the fuel and use some fogging oil to avoid any corrosion within the engine.
WD40 fogged all over the carb, ignition parts, engine and moving parts under the hood, then wipe it clean after five minutes. Shoukd be done yearly in any case.
WD40 fogged all over the carb, ignition parts, engine and moving parts under the hood, then wipe it clean after five minutes. Shoukd be done yearly in any case.
Ship your boat out here I will wear it out for you!!!
Fill the fuel tanks 95% and double the stabil in there. There is enough ethanol in today's fuel to absorb & burn any moisture. When you do run it again use 2 bottles of redline s-1 per 100-150 gallon tank. No issues. For the oil I would use Mobil Delvac 15w40 and add a bottle of starbrite oil stabilizer. Change I/O or transmission oil. Cooling system add a bottle of prestone corrosion inhibitor. Fill all bilge pumps & strainers & drains, heads with green -50F RV antifreeze. Water system gets pink -50F RV anti freeze. Spray all deck hardware & bilge hardware with boeshield. Spray electrical conections with wd40. Pull batteries out of the boat.
Note: I always store boats with full fuel tanks and for 1+ year periods doubling stabil will work. Leaving them dry invites fume explosion hazards, tank & system corrosion & critters getting there that wreak havoc when you run it again. Spiders will destroy a fuel system and enter throught air vents. Full tanks keep the system lubricated, preserved and critter free.
Note: I always store boats with full fuel tanks and for 1+ year periods doubling stabil will work. Leaving them dry invites fume explosion hazards, tank & system corrosion & critters getting there that wreak havoc when you run it again. Spiders will destroy a fuel system and enter throught air vents. Full tanks keep the system lubricated, preserved and critter free.
Last edited:
Maybe this would help - new from Stabil. Made for ethanol gas.
http://www.goldeagle.com/sta-bil/stabil_marine.htm
http://www.goldeagle.com/sta-bil/stabil_marine.htm
Originally Posted By: JonS
What do you mean by there is enough ethanaol in todays gas to burn off moisture. I thought you should not use ethanol in boats because of the sitting for extended period. The ethanol and gas do not mix. It goes to the bottom. Is this correct?
Try finding gas with no ethanol....none where I boat within the last few years. Pretty much all the marinas buy automotive 89 grade. My marina now sells an enzyme stabilizer I think it's made by starbrite.
What do you mean by there is enough ethanaol in todays gas to burn off moisture. I thought you should not use ethanol in boats because of the sitting for extended period. The ethanol and gas do not mix. It goes to the bottom. Is this correct?
Try finding gas with no ethanol....none where I boat within the last few years. Pretty much all the marinas buy automotive 89 grade. My marina now sells an enzyme stabilizer I think it's made by starbrite.
Last edited:
- Status
