Originally Posted by JohnG
How was the nosepiece? Steel or aluminum?
Steel.
How was the nosepiece? Steel or aluminum?
Steel.
Flywheel pic
- Thread starter Chris142
- Start date
- Status
Cool
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted by GMBoy
Originally Posted by KneeGrinder
Originally Posted by GMBoy
Don't cut corners now - you've come this far. You really need to replace that flywheel and the bearing in it. Flywheels are cheap and I would not even consider resurfacing.
He is a professional mechanic, he can decide for himself. He won't make another post tomorrow about why his clutch is chattering.
I am quite aware of that and respect him. I am also a pro for the record. You?
Master here .
If the flywheel isn't worn and it works well, Why would you replace it?
That is absolute non-sense. Youm ust be brainwashed by your Service Manager
Many replacement parts are suspect, and you can get yourself into un-suspected trouble going wil·ly-nil·ly with " new" parts.
NO chattering - just bad bearings.
Now PP and clutch are a consideration. But again if no abnormal wear with long service ahead.
Leave em.
+1
Originally Posted by GMBoy
Originally Posted by KneeGrinder
Originally Posted by GMBoy
Don't cut corners now - you've come this far. You really need to replace that flywheel and the bearing in it. Flywheels are cheap and I would not even consider resurfacing.
He is a professional mechanic, he can decide for himself. He won't make another post tomorrow about why his clutch is chattering.
I am quite aware of that and respect him. I am also a pro for the record. You?
Master here .
If the flywheel isn't worn and it works well, Why would you replace it?
That is absolute non-sense. Youm ust be brainwashed by your Service Manager
Many replacement parts are suspect, and you can get yourself into un-suspected trouble going wil·ly-nil·ly with " new" parts.
NO chattering - just bad bearings.
Now PP and clutch are a consideration. But again if no abnormal wear with long service ahead.
Leave em.
+1
Originally Posted by GMBoy
Originally Posted by KneeGrinder
Originally Posted by GMBoy
Don't cut corners now - you've come this far. You really need to replace that flywheel and the bearing in it. Flywheels are cheap and I would not even consider resurfacing.
He is a professional mechanic, he can decide for himself. He won't make another post tomorrow about why his clutch is chattering.
I am quite aware of that and respect him. I am also a pro for the record. You?
Retired Shop owner at 45yo, and Retired Professional. Life is too short to work, you?
Originally Posted by KneeGrinder
Originally Posted by GMBoy
Don't cut corners now - you've come this far. You really need to replace that flywheel and the bearing in it. Flywheels are cheap and I would not even consider resurfacing.
He is a professional mechanic, he can decide for himself. He won't make another post tomorrow about why his clutch is chattering.
I am quite aware of that and respect him. I am also a pro for the record. You?
Retired Shop owner at 45yo, and Retired Professional. Life is too short to work, you?
I can sure respect the mech's and especially the independent shops that are righteous or successful.
I did a fair amount of research when my G35 needed clutch work. If I recall correctly, I was at $1200 or a tad over with redline fluid. The shop/guy I chose helped me to see what was what. Many of G35's fans were going to high perf kits but almost all had serious chatter. I wanted to stick with OEM, quiet and smooth. That meant a Luk DM flywheel that was a bit pricy. I also seen imposter market Luk that didn't have the codes or stamping on them.
The shop owner was very particular about his sources on certain things and that was one of them. I'm pretty sure as third owner, the first two owners didn't do the clutch any justice.They are known to go 180,000 to 200,000 but the early G35's were well known for having a tricky pedal position threshold. I added 20,000 of the 108,000 total at time of replacement. It was OEM smooth and quiet.
I did a fair amount of research when my G35 needed clutch work. If I recall correctly, I was at $1200 or a tad over with redline fluid. The shop/guy I chose helped me to see what was what. Many of G35's fans were going to high perf kits but almost all had serious chatter. I wanted to stick with OEM, quiet and smooth. That meant a Luk DM flywheel that was a bit pricy. I also seen imposter market Luk that didn't have the codes or stamping on them.
The shop owner was very particular about his sources on certain things and that was one of them. I'm pretty sure as third owner, the first two owners didn't do the clutch any justice.They are known to go 180,000 to 200,000 but the early G35's were well known for having a tricky pedal position threshold. I added 20,000 of the 108,000 total at time of replacement. It was OEM smooth and quiet.
If the flywheel looks good I would also leave it alone. And I'm pretty sure OP has enough experience to make this judgment call on his own vehicle. I don't see this as cutting corners at all.
Now, when it comes to customers, yeah I can see it. And from business perspective, you don't want a comeback, so it makes total sense to change everything that can possibly cause a comeback. But I'm only a shade tree DYI-er so I can only presume these things.
Now, when it comes to customers, yeah I can see it. And from business perspective, you don't want a comeback, so it makes total sense to change everything that can possibly cause a comeback. But I'm only a shade tree DYI-er so I can only presume these things.
I changed out a few clutches in my youth . I was young and broke . Would never have consider replacing a flywheel , unless it was viably damaged .
I did replace clutch , pressure plate and throw out bearing . We are talking about a Plane Jane 3 speed manual .
I did replace clutch , pressure plate and throw out bearing . We are talking about a Plane Jane 3 speed manual .
- Status