Flushing with a garden hose

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Going to get all the nasty old coolant (is 100% water at this time) out of the engine. Was going to disconnect upper hose after letting out all the pressure by loosening it slowly, then pop the cap, then put the garden hose in where radiator cap goes, heat on full hot to get out whatever it can.. Let it run a fair amount of time, until it runs clear.

Starting to suspect that it really needs this. This engine runs HOT, holds much heat for LONG time after shut.. no signs of gasket failures (none at all, I been looking and sniffing the cap) - yet the thermostat always reads low.. replaced the Thermostat, same thing. Could be voltage to the instrument panel issue, sure. But I am not sure it is.. The thermo seemed to all of a sudden stop working from what was "perfect" - never left the word NORMAL on the gauge - to ALWAYS reading low, and coming up slowly and inconsistently.. does this even after replacing thermostat.

I suspect blockage in there, somewhere. Not sure where or how, but, the heat does work..

Bought Prestone flush, left it in, the coolant looks like water poured in mud and then scooped out into a bottle, it looks like puke, that water-coolant.

Then will refill with 50/50, I have half a gallon of actual 100% coolant and still have a gallon of distilled water, so. Thinking of putting the coolant, then a half-bottle of distilled water, and then topping off with a prediluted, since I think it holds two gallons.

Am I on or off the mark in getting the crud out? And will this ultimately help temperature gauge operation?
 
it will help the guage condition IF blockage/buildup is the problem.

If it's a sender, leak, cap, t-stat, weak pump.... it won't be addressing that condition.

A good flush is good maintenance, and also good PM. Make sure you also reverse the flow too.

If the block has lower drains or flush ports, use them too.

Good luck!

M
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Going to get all the nasty old coolant (is 100% water at this time) out of the engine. Was going to disconnect upper hose after letting out all the pressure by loosening it slowly, then pop the cap, then put the garden hose in where radiator cap goes, heat on full hot to get out whatever it can.. Let it run a fair amount of time, until it runs clear.



Thats what I do. I put the hose in the top of the radiator and open the drain valve at the bottom, then adjust the hose to flow just a bit more volume than is being drained out. I run until I see a clean drain for about 5 minutes. Then, I stop the hose and let about a gallon more drain out, close the bottom valve, then add coolant. I think this is a good procedure.
 
Make sure you run it long enough so that your thermostat opens up which will allow fresh water to circulate through the block, otherwise you're only replacing water in the radiator.

Keep in mind that as long as the temp gauge is in the "normal" range, the car is not overheating. It can even run over in the "l" range and that is still within the "normal" setting. My Taurus does this all the time with no problems. Likewise, I used to have an Aerostar with the 3.0 V-6 that would do the same thing - in my experience it's the nature of these motors. Now, if you're pegging the heat gauge on a regular basis - that's a horse of a different color. If that's the case, you might want to check things like a blown head gasket or external blockage on your radiator cooling fins (mud, dirt, dead bugs, etc). Also, be sure and check that the airflow to the rad isn't blocked. To clear all of this, simply take your garden hose and squirt from back to front, (in other words, from the inside of your engine bay to the front of the car). Do this with the motor NOT running and the engine cold.
 
Originally Posted By: Danno
Hate to ask but where is all the spent rad fluid going?
Down the storm sewer and into the environment?


Coolant is considered safe to pour down the toilet- its readily biodegradable. Just don't let it puddle where an animal can drink it before it gets into the sewer system.
 
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: Danno
Hate to ask but where is all the spent rad fluid going?
Down the storm sewer and into the environment?


Coolant is considered safe to pour down the toilet- its readily biodegradable. Just don't let it puddle where an animal can drink it before it gets into the sewer system.



I am not so sure.

http://www.ehow.com/info_8449559_negative-effects-antifreeze-environment.html
 
Certainly can't hurt if it looks that bad. You have the procedure down, that is how I have done mine for years (and any mechanic that I have paid) has done it.
 
Originally Posted By: Danno
Hate to ask but where is all the spent rad fluid going?
Down the storm sewer and into the environment?


He force feeds it to baby seals, whooping cranes, and bald eagles.

Actually he said (above) it was 100% water. Relax.
 
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: Danno
Hate to ask but where is all the spent rad fluid going?
Down the storm sewer and into the environment?


Coolant is considered safe to pour down the toilet- its readily biodegradable. Just don't let it puddle where an animal can drink it before it gets into the sewer system.


When I do this method of flushing coolant, i let as much drain out as possible into a drain pan, and then close the system, top off with water run it, and then drain into catch pan again.
I do this 3-4 times, after which it is almost clear water coming out, at which time I put the hose in the filler neck and let it run for 1/2 hour or so, while draining onto the driveway.

At this point whatever is hitting the ground/getting into the sewer system is SOOO dilute, there is NO WAY it could harm ANYTHING.
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: Danno
Hate to ask but where is all the spent rad fluid going?
Down the storm sewer and into the environment?


Coolant is considered safe to pour down the toilet- its readily biodegradable. Just don't let it puddle where an animal can drink it before it gets into the sewer system.


When I do this method of flushing coolant, i let as much drain out as possible into a drain pan, and then close the system, top off with water run it, and then drain into catch pan again.
I do this 3-4 times, after which it is almost clear water coming out, at which time I put the hose in the filler neck and let it run for 1/2 hour or so, while draining onto the driveway.

At this point whatever is hitting the ground/getting into the sewer system is SOOO dilute, there is NO WAY it could harm ANYTHING.
wink.gif



As predicted, the guy that did mine was in a rush. It ran clear, and we IMMEDIATELY shoved upper hose back on.

I think I still have garden hose water in my system, mixed with antifreeze. it ran clear, but, wow, no thoroughness. I wonder if it will get dirty again.

And my temperature gauge still runs low.. It's maddening.

I drank some; it's ok.
37.gif
sick.gif
(of the distilled water that didn't go in. Actiually, there was so much water in the system that I only got in my 1/2 gallon of antifreeze.)
 
I prefer to remove the thermostat, radiator hoses and heater hoses, and flush everything both ways. If accessible, blowing water up the block drain wont hurt either, you'd be surprised what will build up in the bottom of a water jacket. I pulled the water pump off an old 4.0 jeep that only got any fresh coolant if something failed, there was an inch of silt in the bottom of the water jacket.
 
Originally Posted By: Danno
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: Danno
Hate to ask but where is all the spent rad fluid going?
Down the storm sewer and into the environment?


Coolant is considered safe to pour down the toilet- its readily biodegradable. Just don't let it puddle where an animal can drink it before it gets into the sewer system.



I am not so sure.

http://www.ehow.com/info_8449559_negative-effects-antifreeze-environment.html


Many locales do not have a recycling facility, or collection site.
From Oregon DEQ;

Antifreeze management options

Acceptable methods for managing used
antifreeze include: recycling; disposal at a
hazardous waste treatment,
storage, or disposal
(TSD) facility; or discharge to a wastewater
treatment plant (with prior approval of the
operator)
. Please note
that many wastewater
treatment plant operators prohibit the disposal of
used antifreeze to their systems because of the
possibility of damaging the treatment system.
Antifreeze should not be disposed of by
throwing it in the trash, pouring it down the
storm sewer, or putting it into septic systems.
Many storm sewers discharge directly to surface
waters, such as ponds or streams. If poured into a
08-LQ-024
Last Updated: 3/08
septic system, the antifreeze may damage the
system by killing the microorganisms necessary
for waste decomposition.

http://www.deq.state.or.us/lq/pubs/factsheets/hw/UsedAntifreeze.pdf
 
By Aint at Foolmoon.com
This tells both sides of the debate.

Antifreeze should be disposed of in the manner which is listed on the container or in accordance with federal or local law.
-Official answer

The glycol in antifreeze is like candy to the microorganisms in an activated sludge watsewater treatment facility. They eat it like kids on Halloween. They'll actually eat it instead of everything else. The closer the ratio of glycol to human waste product is, the more a problem this becomes. A little glycol, little being relative to biological demand and flow, is not harmful to the process.

Airports across the nation discharge glycol diluted in water to ww plants all the time. Some airports have a pretreatment process. Some don't.

The problem comes when a plant gets a lot, again being relative to biological demand and flow, of glycol and the "bugs" (we call them that too) eat so much that the rest of the waste product is ignored. That ignored waste goes on through the system making the water cloudy or discolored. That turbidity is unprocessed waste. It means the water needs a longer detention time in clarifiers and that tertiary filters have to filter more particulate. It also means more final disinfection has to be done. If a plant uses a chlorine type or other type of chemical disinfection, it has to use more. Even then, the final effluent may be discolored. Plants that use UV light may not be as effective in their final disinfection because the left over suspended solids inhibit light penetration.

Another issue can be increased air demand. Activated sludge is aerated by either stirring up the water or blowing air into it. The more demand for air there is, the higher the Biological Oxygen Demand is, more blowers have to be run and faster. That requires more electrical power. No matter the means of aeration, there is a limit to how much air a plant can put into the water. Pass that limit and see the aforementioned problems.

When BOD passes the amount of air supplied and/or when flow is not detained long enough, a plant can "pass ammonia". The cycle is not complete and ammonia produced in the process is passed along through the system. Ammonia can lower chlorine demand and make it seem like BOD is actually lower than it is. There are also legal limits on how much ammonia a plant can discharge to the receiving stream.

And then there's all the stuff in antifreeze that isn't glycol. Lead, colorings, corrosion inhibitors, lubricants and who knows what else that the bugs don't eat; that doesn't settle out, get scrubbed off or neutralized by disinfection- all that can end up in the receiving stream.

The receiving stream is a stream. A river. A reservoir of some kind. Even if that water isn't immediately reclaimed for municipal use, somebody somewhere is ultimately drinking it. And fish have to live it. I like fish. They're delicious, sans antifreeze.

So in conclusion, antifreeze should be disposed of in the manner which is listed on the container or in accordance with federal or local law. - See more at: http://foolmoon.com/forum/ubbthreads.php...h.tRLXJd5v.dpuf
 
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