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Anyone got any info on what to use to flush a diesel engine that has had bad oil build-up? Possibly ATF like in a gas engine? Ant info would be great. Thanks...
Flushing motor
- Thread starter bbslider001
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Since you use amsoil products why not try out their engine flush, I think 2 cans will be needed for a larger sump diesel. Also AutoRX is big on this site as well, but takes a little longer than any solvent flush.
If it was me, I would not use the flush...I don't trust the chemicals they have in those things. As far as I am concerned they are made to strip and "degunk"- if that is a word, all the buildup and just like those who use solvent to clean out their diffs I feel that the engine flush may do more harm than good.
Me, I would pick a top quality synthetic (PAO) with a high tbn and let the oil do its job for you. That, and run it on the highway hard, then change early. The ATF method is an old mechanics trick and I have used it overseas in an operational environment...but those engines have a hard short life as it is.
Whatever you do, be careful- engines aren't cheap.
Me, I would pick a top quality synthetic (PAO) with a high tbn and let the oil do its job for you. That, and run it on the highway hard, then change early. The ATF method is an old mechanics trick and I have used it overseas in an operational environment...but those engines have a hard short life as it is.
Whatever you do, be careful- engines aren't cheap.
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For what it is worth, AMSOIL engine flush does not, according to AMSOIL), strip the lubricants off the moving surfaces.
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Thanks for the input. I am not going to take any chances with this engine. It runs absolutely great. I might try the Amsoil engine flush, but have not decided yet. I bought the truck at 50k and have since put 40k with running Amsoil 15w-40 only. I will continue with this formulation until something better comes along.
If this is for your duramax I would not put anything into the oil except for autorx. Maybe run a short interval with a dino oil just to flush things out.
Agree with Harley. Auto RX it.
I agree with D-Roc. I have bad experience with oil leak after using such a product.
Is really any significant reason to do that?
Is really any significant reason to do that?
Some of these engine flush products claim to work in 20-30 minutes, then drain it and put in new oil. I would worry about something that works that quickly. To me it sounds like the oil cure for ring seating, Bon-Ami down the intake with the engine running. This was actually recommended by manufacturers in the 50's. It was done to solve a problem quickly and make the customer happy. It really worked but one has to wonder what else it did besides seat the rings. The wear it caused probably did not show up for a while, long enough to disassociate the fix with future problems. As motors get more wrapped up in computer controls and smog specs I think the use of harsh solvents will disappear just like using Bon-Ami.
One of the old field tricks in the Army on APC's that used to happen during extended field time when an engine was low on compression and a new one was a week or two away logistically, was to pour some Comet into the engine and run it like that for a few minutes, then drain the oil and "voila!". I never saw it done, but the older mechanics claimed it worked...I just can't bring myself to buy into some of the more "far out" tricks. But then again, when you're out in the field for months on end, sometimes you'll try anything. Once...
Having done quite a bit of field work I know that sometimes you have no choice and whatever it is you are working on HAS to run. There are some MAJOR differences between a field fix and servicing a piece of equipment in many cases.
There are a lot of tricks that do work that I would NEVER do on a piece of equipment that was still in good shape and I intended to run for a long period of time. Figure a crate Duramax at about 10k depending on core and where you buy it plus labor and a little money spent on good oil/filter is well spent.
Try AutoRX or just run a good oil and change it often for a while until things start cleaning up and then slowly start extending your OCI's until you are happy. UOA's will need to be done for long drains.
There are a lot of tricks that do work that I would NEVER do on a piece of equipment that was still in good shape and I intended to run for a long period of time. Figure a crate Duramax at about 10k depending on core and where you buy it plus labor and a little money spent on good oil/filter is well spent.
Try AutoRX or just run a good oil and change it often for a while until things start cleaning up and then slowly start extending your OCI's until you are happy. UOA's will need to be done for long drains.
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Yeah, the main reason I was asking is because I have not had the truck since it was new, so I don't know how it was treated or what oil was used for the engine, so I wanted to "start over", so to speak. I get 20 mpg, have more than enough power towing or empty, and use NO oil b/t changes. I am thinking that it really isn't necessary to do a flush. As far as oil, I have used Amsoil 15w-40 full synth. for about 40k miles to this point, so I am sure it is good on cleanliness. I don't do UOA because I change it every 10k, severe service or not. I just figure it's good insurance for a 10k dollar motor, like you said. Thanks for all your input!
The ATF was an old mechanics trick back when motor oils had little detergency. Now they basically just dilute the oil. There are many of these old wives' tales floating around out there
Don't use the 20 minute flushes either. Use something like AutoRx that takes its time and cleans completely.
From my experience, any leaks the cleaning might cause will be compensated by conditioning of the seals with the new oil. I generally see the leaks disappear.
Don't use the 20 minute flushes either. Use something like AutoRx that takes its time and cleans completely.
From my experience, any leaks the cleaning might cause will be compensated by conditioning of the seals with the new oil. I generally see the leaks disappear.
Running Amsoil for 40,000 miles the engine is probably pretty clean. What is bad oil buildup? have you pulled a valve cover to see if there is a bad oil buildup? What makes you think there is a bad oil buildup? Before following all the experts advices for a problem see it there is a problem to begin with. How often do you change the oil? Auto R/X cleans up the hard carbon deposits which is good. Where in Calif do you live?
what's the last 2 UOAs look like?
4 bottles of Auto-RX and follow their clean and rinse regime
if there is heavy buildup of carbon in rings drain out 4 quarts of oil and add 4 qts of 100% pure biodiesel and let idle for a couple hours.
change filter and oil. add 1 qt of biodiesel to oil.
PAO syn's don't have much cleaning capability.
when was the last time the injectors were pulled, cleaned and tested?
4 bottles of Auto-RX and follow their clean and rinse regime
if there is heavy buildup of carbon in rings drain out 4 quarts of oil and add 4 qts of 100% pure biodiesel and let idle for a couple hours.
change filter and oil. add 1 qt of biodiesel to oil.
PAO syn's don't have much cleaning capability.
when was the last time the injectors were pulled, cleaned and tested?
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probly 2 clean and rinse cycles or 1 clean and rinse and a lot of maint. doses.
I read up a little on Auto RX and frankly I'm a bit surprised that it has support, especially amongst senior members on here. Is it really that good? I seriously can't see how it would do any good for an already neglected engine. Maybe it won't harm it like other motor flushes, but does it really do good??
Cowhorse: Not to send ya in the wrong direction. My 01 F250 has 266k miles on him right now. The F250 had 250K miles on it when purchased. The previous owner didn't have very good maintance program. Needless to say, the first thing I did was drain the old oil and pour in Delo 15W-40 and 2 bottles of Auto-Rx. Left in for 5k miles and then a rinse phase. I did this twice. I did have a small timing chain cover leak at the time. {Nothing Major}. When Auto-Rx was in the 7.3L the leak stopped. During the rinse phase, the leak would come back. During both treatments of Auto-Rx, the 7.3L gradually began to start easier and idle more smoothly. I have know dought the product was doing what it was meant to do. I would recommend Auto-Rx. Great Product. Now with that being said: I was pointed in a another direction via a member in our Oklahoma PSD Group. Esp made for Diesel Engines-->Hot Shot's Secret! Made by Lubrication Specialties Inc.
http://www.lubricationspecialties.com/
After pouring in this product with a fresh supply of Delo 15W-40, I noticed right away a faster startup. After the first intial start up, the start ups seem to improve or stay the same. Such a major improvement: After taking a 30 mile round trip, I noticed the noisey 7.3L seemed to run quieter and definatley idle quieter. Even the Wife noticed it before I. This all seemed to improve the more miles we drove the F250. I left the Hot Shot's Secret in for 5k miles. The timing chain cover leak stopped after pouring in HSS, and has never returned. I now have M1 Delvac in for a rinse phase, then going with a 5W-40 synthetic for yr round use. I know this is all basically seat of my pants feeling and going by what my ears hear. But I know what the F250 drove like and Idled like before both of these treatments. This 7.3L is a new animal. When my wife notices the differense? Something has happened!! Both these products are Top Notch!! I will keep using the HSS with every summer oil change just as a preventive maintance program. I change my oil, once before winter and just before summer.
Check the HSS out Cowhorse: I know it's directed towards Ford's 6.0L and 7.3L, but I have talked with quiet a few Duramax owners with similar results.
Good Luck with the new Truck You have a keeper.
Diesel Trucks are Unbeleiveable.
http://www.lubricationspecialties.com/
After pouring in this product with a fresh supply of Delo 15W-40, I noticed right away a faster startup. After the first intial start up, the start ups seem to improve or stay the same. Such a major improvement: After taking a 30 mile round trip, I noticed the noisey 7.3L seemed to run quieter and definatley idle quieter. Even the Wife noticed it before I. This all seemed to improve the more miles we drove the F250. I left the Hot Shot's Secret in for 5k miles. The timing chain cover leak stopped after pouring in HSS, and has never returned. I now have M1 Delvac in for a rinse phase, then going with a 5W-40 synthetic for yr round use. I know this is all basically seat of my pants feeling and going by what my ears hear. But I know what the F250 drove like and Idled like before both of these treatments. This 7.3L is a new animal. When my wife notices the differense? Something has happened!! Both these products are Top Notch!! I will keep using the HSS with every summer oil change just as a preventive maintance program. I change my oil, once before winter and just before summer.
Check the HSS out Cowhorse: I know it's directed towards Ford's 6.0L and 7.3L, but I have talked with quiet a few Duramax owners with similar results.
Good Luck with the new Truck You have a keeper.
Diesel Trucks are Unbeleiveable.
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