Flushed Clutch - Really Surprised

[calvin1]

mini-update - I've checked the reservoir level everyday for a week and there was no change until yesterday when it was completely empty. I refilled but I think there's some clutch hydraulic work in my future.

It just seems strange to me that things were completely fine for a week and then suddenly it dropped 3oz in one day.

 

[unDummy]

Switch to a DOT3 brake fluid. It'll be a little thicker than the DOT4. Postpone the inevitable master/slave rebuild or replacement.

 

[calvin1]

The saga continues! I checked the master on Wednesday and it's fine. This morning the slave finally wouldn't pump up at all. I was hoping to make it to warmer weather but no luck. I got the new one from Febi in but it seems to be blown too. Can anyone think of a reason why this new one would also blow fluid all over the place?

 

[unDummy]

Cause it has been sitting in a warehouse the past decade rusting from the inside out?

 

[calvin1]

Originally Posted By: unDummy
Cause it has been sitting in a warehouse the past decade rusting from the inside out?

That would REALLY [censored] me off! Would it damage it to cycle it unmounted? I don't want to go shooting parts if so.

 

[unDummy]

If it was dry, and you cycled the piston/seal while it was dry, it could be damaged.

Take it apart. See if someone sells a seal kit or rebuild kit for it.

 

[calvin1]

I'm not sure if I understand what you mean by cycling it while it's dry. Was I supposed to prefill it somehow? The shop manual and any of the DIYs I read have not mentioned this. This is the first time I've done a slave cylinder so have mercy on a newby.

 

[calvin1]

I pulled it and the boot is torn. I can't really tell if the seals are bad without opening it but at this point it's the vendor's problem, not mine.

 

[Kaie]

Originally Posted By: unDummy
Switch to a DOT3 brake fluid. It'll be a little thicker than the DOT4. Postpone the inevitable master/slave rebuild or replacement.



If im not mistaken i dont think you are supposed to 'downgrade' a DOT4 system to DOT3. That is if this vehicle came DOT4 factory filled.

 

[calvin1]

Originally Posted By: Kaie
Originally Posted By: unDummy
Switch to a DOT3 brake fluid. It'll be a little thicker than the DOT4. Postpone the inevitable master/slave rebuild or replacement.



If im not mistaken i dont think you are supposed to 'downgrade' a DOT4 system to DOT3. That is if this vehicle came DOT4 factory filled.
This car has a separate reservoir for clutch fluid so it's not much of an issue. Unfortunately it didn't make the old one work any better, even with the crazy cold weather lately.

 

[calvin1]

Tiny update - I figured out how to open the slave cylinders and found that the cheap end retainer on the new one lets the piston travel into the beveled part of the bore. I swapped parts between it and the OEM and think I've got something that will work. I'm going to try to get it installed this afternoon. The bore on the old one was heavily varnished, rusted and filled with sludge. Too bad the PO didn't have fresh fluid run though it more often. The seal and pushrod tip are both in great condition but the bore is just too rough to make a reliable seal.

 

[calvin1]

I got it working, if not 100%. Swapping parts into the replacement didn't work. The piston still traveled too far and leaked like crazy. I then got desperate and stripped the new one down like it was a rebuild kit to rehab the old one. Amazingly (to me anyway) some 220 grit sandpaper cleaned the old bore up nicely. I was thinking I'd need a hone but the varnish and surface rust gave way very easily. I just need to bleed one last bubble out and put the trim back on.

The one part of the job I just can't figure out is how to get the cylinder to fully seat into its hole in the side of the transmission case. There's a small ring on the cylinder right next to the mounting flange that should let it mount flush. However, I couldn't get it centered just right to drop that last little bit down in and so there's a little gap and I'm also missing that last 1.5mm of piston travel. Maybe I just need to go to the gym more or there's something about the mounting studs and flange that just won't let it seat properly. Once I have the time I'm going to let the transmission shop down the street from home look at it. In the right hands that shouldn't take more than ten minutes but I'm at the end of my gifts/skills here.

bottom line: no more Febi hydraulics for me, and please flush your clutch fluid sometime before 150k