You should send those results to Unilever, and maybe they can sell it in gallons that can be sprayed. Less toxic I'd bet and it appears to do a very good job. You might have discovered a new market for an old product. 
Fluid film vs surface shield.
- Thread starter rob wags
- Start date
It would certainly smell less funky than those sheep stank products.You should send those results to Unilever, and maybe they can sell it in gallons that can be sprayed. Less toxic I'd bet and it appears to do a very good job. You might have discovered a new market for an old product.
I just used motorcycle chain lube on the suspension and surrounding area. Sticky, greasy, and will creep some.
Moving out of the rust belt helps also.
When people talk about rust inhabition they don't specify whether they're trying to inhibit it on Rust that has already existing or on clean metal. This leads to lots of cross talk and bad advice.
Also, I understand that it is harder to determine rust progression on a rusty surface, than just looking a new metal. This probably takes weighing or micron tools, maybe resistance meters (after you wash off the protectant, which would end the experiment). Without objective rust progression measurements and water displacement and penetration analysis, we are only talking about new metal objectively. And seat of the pants impressions of performance on wetting and slowing rust that already exists. However, no such distinctions ever are made in discussions or demonstrations, and all I hear and read is crosstalk. Every user is in their own unique reality and need different products, but everyone is looking for a 1 size fits all solution.
I have no doubt that Vaseline wins on clean metal, only being beaten by beeswax or microcrystalline wax or some mix thereof. However, in the real world, Vaseline is not polar and does displace water like lanolin or atf 3, which is also polar. Rust and seems likely have water weeks after being drenched. This is where lanolin and atf shine.
I would guess vasoline is best as a second coat over the lanolin product unless you have a brand new car. Even then, a thick flexible wax would beat the Vaseline and used as a second coat.
Researching prep too. The most appealing prep to me is : In theory, some buffered (for the seams citric acid, light wash as not to get into the frame, and immediate water borax spray (1 tsp per quart) to eliminate flash rust. Then drive on a hot road to also dry the frame. Osphos residue acid and non pentratable film scares me. Although, who knows empirically.
I will say that used motor oil never helped my vehicle fleet much. I noticed atf better on rust than oil about 6 it 7 years ago. There is a zinc phosphoric additive in oil, good for new metal against rust, but apparently breaks down over time at 300F into rust causing acid. This is likely why I had better luck with new oil, mixed with atf.
I want to make my own, but I need the percentage of lanolin in woolwax and surface shield.
I also want to know if heated Vaseline spraying works well on real rusty vehicles and in the real world with trapped water in seams and frames and deep down in the rust.
Also, I understand that it is harder to determine rust progression on a rusty surface, than just looking a new metal. This probably takes weighing or micron tools, maybe resistance meters (after you wash off the protectant, which would end the experiment). Without objective rust progression measurements and water displacement and penetration analysis, we are only talking about new metal objectively. And seat of the pants impressions of performance on wetting and slowing rust that already exists. However, no such distinctions ever are made in discussions or demonstrations, and all I hear and read is crosstalk. Every user is in their own unique reality and need different products, but everyone is looking for a 1 size fits all solution.
I have no doubt that Vaseline wins on clean metal, only being beaten by beeswax or microcrystalline wax or some mix thereof. However, in the real world, Vaseline is not polar and does displace water like lanolin or atf 3, which is also polar. Rust and seems likely have water weeks after being drenched. This is where lanolin and atf shine.
I would guess vasoline is best as a second coat over the lanolin product unless you have a brand new car. Even then, a thick flexible wax would beat the Vaseline and used as a second coat.
Researching prep too. The most appealing prep to me is : In theory, some buffered (for the seams citric acid, light wash as not to get into the frame, and immediate water borax spray (1 tsp per quart) to eliminate flash rust. Then drive on a hot road to also dry the frame. Osphos residue acid and non pentratable film scares me. Although, who knows empirically.
I will say that used motor oil never helped my vehicle fleet much. I noticed atf better on rust than oil about 6 it 7 years ago. There is a zinc phosphoric additive in oil, good for new metal against rust, but apparently breaks down over time at 300F into rust causing acid. This is likely why I had better luck with new oil, mixed with atf.
I want to make my own, but I need the percentage of lanolin in woolwax and surface shield.
I also want to know if heated Vaseline spraying works well on real rusty vehicles and in the real world with trapped water in seams and frames and deep down in the rust.
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The other thing to note from the brake drum pictures is the importance of periodic reapplications. If lapsed, even the CRC quickly caught up with the control.
Different people have different budgets, so the cost per decade of each matters.
Agresssive needs to be met with the aggressive. For some cars, they might need to treated twice a year.
Different people have different budgets, so the cost per decade of each matters.
Agresssive needs to be met with the aggressive. For some cars, they might need to treated twice a year.
