Fluid Film Inside Doors ?
- Thread starter Ndx
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I don't think you need it if you are still using Krown but it will not hurt anything. You maybe able to hit some areas (window sliders) that Krown is not sprayed directly on since they do not remove interior panels during application.
Fluid Film is a great product. I buy it in the 5 gallon drum. It comes in regular viscosity, and the extra heavy grease like AR product. The regular viscosity also comes in spray cans. The result is a nice thick product, which still creeps into the crevices and seams. My own mechanic uses a propane tank, with the top cut off, and installed a heater in the bottom. He usually sprays HEATED Safety Kleen anti corrosion oil. When I come to his place, I spoon about a gallon of AR into a pot, and heat it up on the stove. We mix 50:50 AR with anti-corrosion oil product, HOT, and spray it on HOT. I get all my 6 cars done, for 300$ - all surfaces, inside rockers, inside doors, etc. the works. I have a 1995 Dodge Colt, driven all year in salt and snow, completely MINT condition. I never wash it, just let the rain do the washing, and spray it once a year with oil/Fluid film. Krown is also excellent, but is very thin. I alway get all my new vehicles done with Krown, so the holes can be drilled, and as a "primer" coat. Then, sometimes I will get it down with Rust Check, which is a little thicker. The same year, a few months later, I take it to my own guy, who applies a nice heavy layer, about 2 l for a subcompact, 3 l for fullsize, and 4l for a truck. So, the first year, my vehicle gets 3 oil sprays, and after that just once a year.
This way, the vehicle will never rust, and disassembly is very easy, because the nuts and bolts come apart really easily, so I save on body shop, save mechanic fees, and save on not having to always keep buying new vehicles. The 300$ I spend annually on 6 vehicles, is worth in "value" $3000, probably.
This way, the vehicle will never rust, and disassembly is very easy, because the nuts and bolts come apart really easily, so I save on body shop, save mechanic fees, and save on not having to always keep buying new vehicles. The 300$ I spend annually on 6 vehicles, is worth in "value" $3000, probably.
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Probably worth more than that Klink.
I have been using paraffin wax cut with mineral spirits and non-det motor oil. Heat it up and apply it hot. Creeps and leaves a nice coat of oily wax.
Don't cringe anymore when I'm forced to drive through a salty sinkhole in the winter.
I have been using paraffin wax cut with mineral spirits and non-det motor oil. Heat it up and apply it hot. Creeps and leaves a nice coat of oily wax.
Don't cringe anymore when I'm forced to drive through a salty sinkhole in the winter.
gomes -- are you at liberty to tell us the "formula", and method of application ? thanks.
Kestas
Staff member
Ndx, the doors (the insides) should actually be top priority when rustproofing a car. After the bottom of quarter panels, the doors are most prone to rust problems. In third place is the bottom lip of a decklid.
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