Floor jacks for 3/4 ton trucks
- Thread starter Snagglefoot
- Start date
I think the small jacks have their place. I intend to keep mine. For my new one I found storage for it by lifting the bottom shelf on one of my shelving units with room to roll it. I don’t intend to pick it up.
@Snagglefoot. Thanks for the pictures of the Owners manual. I was hoping to find a hint on there such as a seal kit part number to get some more confirmation it’s from torin, but it’s unfortunately a pretty generic drawing Of the hydraulic unit. The reason I’m interested is because I think many import hydraulic jack importers for the consumer have gone cheap with their internal components for a long time, and just fairly recently, it seems there are some newer models with
better components.
better components.
I think people underestimate the amount of useful lifting capacity a 1.5 ton jack can do. If you decide to lift just 1 wheel at a time, that’s 3000 lbs per wheel. While it is too simplistic to just multiply that by 4 wheels ... I’d think most 3/4 ton trucks are in the 7500 lb curb weight territory, so a 1.5t jack should normally be able to handle 1 wheel lifted at a time.
also remember that an overload bypass valve that exists to protect the jack and user if an overload condition does exist. With the overload bypass factory set at jack capacity, You should be no where close to jack failure when the bypass valve starts working ... as long as you trust that everyone in the QC process has properly tested/certified the jack.
quick YouTube video of someone properly setting an overload bypass valve:
and here’s someone doing a DIY setting of a bypass valve (close enough for him I guess), long video, start at minute 25:00 ....
I’ll totally agree with you regarding the 1.5t Aluminum HF ($70) vs. a 2t steel Hein Werner ($330). There is no aluminum jack that can beat the price on that HF (max lift height is its biggest limitation, imo). It’s even priced competitive to the smaller steel “trolley jacks”. I think a Hein Werner buyer is someone who wants something built for durability. There’s isn’t anything low profile, lightweight, portable, speedy quick nor any “new technology” in the Hein Werner jacks.
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JHZR2
Staff member
Thanks for sharing the videos. I don’t think I paid more than $59 for my 1.5 ton, which is what makes it such a deal, plus it’s small and so light. Frankly I was surprised that it lifted the Ram. i don’t think mine weighs 7500#, I thought they were more like 5000-5500 without fuel or passengers. but if you say 6000# total, and each corner is around 1/4 of the mass, I’ll say that the 3000# jack struggled to lift it past half or a little higher... but maybe what I sensed as “struggle” was actually the overload, or a peak height setting. It doesn’t have any struggle to lift my cars, or even the minivan. But that may be attributed to the height. Maybe I should have put a block of wood in there to limit the lift height.
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A block helps, plus on the new jacks, prevents cut on the pads for vehicles where the lift point is a seam.
Hello, I supposed I am hijacking rather than starting a new thread, but it seems the same topic. I want to take advantage of a NAPA Oct sale and am considering two jacks. I have a 1/2 ton truck and a Hyundai sedan. I currently have a trolley jack and the short handle/small size makes lifting the truck a chore.
First, a heavy steel NAPA Balkamp which I think is made by Hein Werner, the HW93642: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_8151279?partTypeName=Floor+Jack&keywordInput=floor+jack
Some of the Amazon reviews say is a bit slow to raise. I'd prefer a jack that is at least "assembled in the USA", though. The local store does not have one in stock for me to test but they say they will ship one to me.
Second, a NAPA Carlyle jack. It is about half the weight but made in China: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CHQ7916460 It is in stock and it is a fine jack. I'd rather not buy China, but I know there aren't many options.
America will be great again when we can buy durable goods made in the USA!
Appreciate insight on either jack, or an additional recommendation.- Thanks in advance
First, a heavy steel NAPA Balkamp which I think is made by Hein Werner, the HW93642: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_8151279?partTypeName=Floor+Jack&keywordInput=floor+jack
Some of the Amazon reviews say is a bit slow to raise. I'd prefer a jack that is at least "assembled in the USA", though. The local store does not have one in stock for me to test but they say they will ship one to me.
Second, a NAPA Carlyle jack. It is about half the weight but made in China: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CHQ7916460 It is in stock and it is a fine jack. I'd rather not buy China, but I know there aren't many options.
America will be great again when we can buy durable goods made in the USA!
Appreciate insight on either jack, or an additional recommendation.- Thanks in advance
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I’ve heard good things on both. The Chinese jacks aren’t that bad they have figured out the hydraulic stuff really well. I highly recommend a Daytona from Harbor Freight though those things you can’t beat them really and they have regular and low profile so they can work for multiple things. At work we have a bunch of the Daytona jacks also have one Pittsburgh that we use as well they all work excellent we replaced our old Craftsmans with those. I have a Daytona at home as well and it works great. Also the Yellow Jacket from Northern Tool is rated pretty high as well made by the same people who make the Daytona I believe. Any of those should have no problem lifting a 1/2 ton truck or a little car like you have.
Re: Snowshew: The first Jack doesn’t seem to have any useful info. How high can it lift?
The weight requirement of a jack depends how you use it, I suppose. My 3/4 ton Burb weighs almost 6000 lbs. (3 tons). Picking it up at the pumpkin is roughly 1.5 tons. Picking it up under the rear corner spring perch is 0.75 tons. Then, the life of the seals probably depends on repeated usage. I noticed in the discussions in the thread we were talking about both commercial use and home mechanic use. There is absolutely no comparison between using it 5 times per day vs the home mechanic use of what, 20 times per year? Also, there is the stability issue. I’m not sure if I would place a small jack under a pumpkin and be partially underneath the truck while jacking it up. For the max height, you probably want the height required to lift a front tire off the ground using the frame jack pad for the location. Lastly, you need somewhere to store a big jack. I store mine underneath a storage rack and never physically pick it up.
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Thank you for the advice and recommendations. I am somewhat limited by location; no Northern Tools, HF in AK. The HW details are here: http://heinwerner-automotive.com/ProductDetails/Hein-WernerAutomotive/2TonServiceJack/HW93642/522
I'm definitely a seasonal user of a floor jack, swapping winter tires primarily. I'll try not to scoff the imports and just buy what I need for the job at hand. Thanks again-
I'm definitely a seasonal user of a floor jack, swapping winter tires primarily. I'll try not to scoff the imports and just buy what I need for the job at hand. Thanks again-
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Site Donor 2024
US Jack also has great Jacks if you are looking for US made. They are expensive and would be expensive to ship to Alaska just like the HF or Northern Tool would be as well. My brother in law has a Torin Black Jack jack from Walmart (also available other places too) it is actually really good and I think it should work good for what you need it for he is just a weekend warrior for cars and that one has done great for him. The other one you listed looks good. Personally have never used that brand but appears to be ok. I can’t really speak on that one.
I’m quite familiar with the Walker/Lincoln/Hein Werner lineage of jacks. I have no experience with the Carlyle jack, but the dual piston design is so common In the consumer market these days, I’m assuming it’s similar to others. If I we’re buying, I would buy the Balkamp, the rebranded HW93642. my reasoning would be that the 93642 Jack has been around since the 1940’s and has a reputation for durability. Plus, it has my preferred u cup seals on the main ram and the pump piston. IMHO the sale price of $289 is very good compared to what you can find a 93642. Are you sure they’re not going to slap on an extra $129 shipping?
The dual piston rapid lift imported design found in the Carlyle was first seen around 2010-ish. I cross referenced the Napa stock number, and it looks like the Carlyle is a rebranded Sunex Jack, so in the same family as Arcan, NOS, KTI, etc...When I looked at the parts diagram, they’ve hidden the type of seals used in the “power unit”. IMHO, the original list price of $350 is way overpriced, and the sale price brings the jack back into reasonable, similar in price as the 2 ton aluminum Arcan or NOS jacks. FWIW, I know in Alaska you’re probably limited in retailers that sell jacks, I don’t know if you have a Costco where you might find Arcan as an alternative.
Overall, I think the HW will be a more durable jack, and the Carlyle will be a more convenient jack to use:
You will notice That the HW will have a vented reservoir, while the carlyle will have either a screw or rubber plug on the reservoir hole. The vented reservoir will allow Jack oil to leak out during shipping if the box is upside down. Best to check your oil level once you get the Jack.
You will find that the handle/yoke engages the pump piston later with the HW, maybe around 30-45 degrees to parallel with the ground. What this does is make you crouch or kneel down when initially pumping to the jack to reach your jack point. You’ll be able to stand upright with the Carlyle, which is more comfortable IMHO. On the other hand, once you’re lifting the car, on the HW the handle will be lower in a position where you can put your weight on the handle easier, with a shorter stroke needed for each full pump (It’s like a 1.5-2 ft stroke at the end of the handle to get a full pump). Also, if the Jack is far deep under a vehicle to reach the Jack point, sometimes there’s less room under the car to be able to swing the jack handle - So you can still get a near full pump with less handle stroke on the HW compared to the Carlyle. You’ll also notice that the HW lacks a return torsion spring on the handle, so sometimes it could feel more difficult to lift the handle up from a pump than pushing down.
The dual pistons rapid lift the Carlyle has certainly will lift faster when there is no load applied. the way the dual pistons work is when there is no load on the jack, both pistons pump oil from the reservoir into the main ram cylinder. Once you start lifting the car, the bigger piston will stop working and “bypass” leaving only the smaller piston to pump oil from the reservoir to the main ram cylinder. You’re optimizing Pascal’s law. So in effect when there is no load you get fast lift, little force multiplication ... and when there is a load, you get slower lift, with lots of force multiplication. (On the other hand, I get a chuckle when I see you tube videos that do unboxing reviews and they are amazed that their jack “only takes 4 pumps to reach full height!” Yeah, you’re only lifting air. Better would be to count pumps to go from low position to the car, and then have a separate pump count from after touching the car to full height.)
An aluminum jack will be lighter. Think about how you’re going to use the jack. Some people need to drag the jack across a lumpy gravel driveway, or need to lift the jack in and out of a truck. Aluminum jacks will be much easier to drag into non optimal situations. Jacks are not just heavy, they are bulky and odd shaped to lift. When on smooth concrete, every new jack I’ve had rolls great.
I think the HW lowers the load smoother than the import dual pump units. It can be felt, but it is only a mild difference. As far as I’m concerned, the “trolley jack” release system sucks. The spider-gear variation of the release system found in a lot of older imports also kinda sucks. The universal joint in both the HW and the Carlyle are a big upgrade in smoothness. The HW also uses a cone shaped “needle valve” while the dual piston import design uses a “ball valve”. Needle valves give a greater control over rate of fluid flow than ball valves, so once the valve opens there are more gradations between just a little open to wide open with a needle valve. Also, the vented reservoir also helps for this, as you’re not fighting against any built up reservoir vacuum.
I apologize for the wall of text above.
The dual piston rapid lift imported design found in the Carlyle was first seen around 2010-ish. I cross referenced the Napa stock number, and it looks like the Carlyle is a rebranded Sunex Jack, so in the same family as Arcan, NOS, KTI, etc...When I looked at the parts diagram, they’ve hidden the type of seals used in the “power unit”. IMHO, the original list price of $350 is way overpriced, and the sale price brings the jack back into reasonable, similar in price as the 2 ton aluminum Arcan or NOS jacks. FWIW, I know in Alaska you’re probably limited in retailers that sell jacks, I don’t know if you have a Costco where you might find Arcan as an alternative.
Overall, I think the HW will be a more durable jack, and the Carlyle will be a more convenient jack to use:
You will notice That the HW will have a vented reservoir, while the carlyle will have either a screw or rubber plug on the reservoir hole. The vented reservoir will allow Jack oil to leak out during shipping if the box is upside down. Best to check your oil level once you get the Jack.
You will find that the handle/yoke engages the pump piston later with the HW, maybe around 30-45 degrees to parallel with the ground. What this does is make you crouch or kneel down when initially pumping to the jack to reach your jack point. You’ll be able to stand upright with the Carlyle, which is more comfortable IMHO. On the other hand, once you’re lifting the car, on the HW the handle will be lower in a position where you can put your weight on the handle easier, with a shorter stroke needed for each full pump (It’s like a 1.5-2 ft stroke at the end of the handle to get a full pump). Also, if the Jack is far deep under a vehicle to reach the Jack point, sometimes there’s less room under the car to be able to swing the jack handle - So you can still get a near full pump with less handle stroke on the HW compared to the Carlyle. You’ll also notice that the HW lacks a return torsion spring on the handle, so sometimes it could feel more difficult to lift the handle up from a pump than pushing down.
The dual pistons rapid lift the Carlyle has certainly will lift faster when there is no load applied. the way the dual pistons work is when there is no load on the jack, both pistons pump oil from the reservoir into the main ram cylinder. Once you start lifting the car, the bigger piston will stop working and “bypass” leaving only the smaller piston to pump oil from the reservoir to the main ram cylinder. You’re optimizing Pascal’s law. So in effect when there is no load you get fast lift, little force multiplication ... and when there is a load, you get slower lift, with lots of force multiplication. (On the other hand, I get a chuckle when I see you tube videos that do unboxing reviews and they are amazed that their jack “only takes 4 pumps to reach full height!” Yeah, you’re only lifting air. Better would be to count pumps to go from low position to the car, and then have a separate pump count from after touching the car to full height.)
An aluminum jack will be lighter. Think about how you’re going to use the jack. Some people need to drag the jack across a lumpy gravel driveway, or need to lift the jack in and out of a truck. Aluminum jacks will be much easier to drag into non optimal situations. Jacks are not just heavy, they are bulky and odd shaped to lift. When on smooth concrete, every new jack I’ve had rolls great.
I think the HW lowers the load smoother than the import dual pump units. It can be felt, but it is only a mild difference. As far as I’m concerned, the “trolley jack” release system sucks. The spider-gear variation of the release system found in a lot of older imports also kinda sucks. The universal joint in both the HW and the Carlyle are a big upgrade in smoothness. The HW also uses a cone shaped “needle valve” while the dual piston import design uses a “ball valve”. Needle valves give a greater control over rate of fluid flow than ball valves, so once the valve opens there are more gradations between just a little open to wide open with a needle valve. Also, the vented reservoir also helps for this, as you’re not fighting against any built up reservoir vacuum.
I apologize for the wall of text above.
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I saw some similar use at a tire place. I asked about the jacks they were using, and said," these jacks must be OK if you use them here commercially." He told me, "Nah. They last about a month for us." Was some cheap looking imports.
NAPA shipped the HW 9342 for free, so 289 to my door in Alaska. Pretty good, especially for a 90lb box and a 8lb box (handle). The jack had definitely been upside down along the way as some amount of the oil had left the cylinder. It still lifts but no oil can be seen in the fill hole. An outstanding jack; I am very happy with it and am glad I bought it. Thank you ajchien for the recommendation-
Also, Hein Werner sells ISO 10 grade oil for their jacks which is very strange. I can't get HW oil shipped here and could not find ISO 10 anywhere, the closest I could get was Liquid Wrench, ISO 22. Yes, I know, any jack oil (and other fluids) will work just fine...but given the option of filling it with exactly what it (probably) had in it, or at least as close to it, why not?
Also, Hein Werner sells ISO 10 grade oil for their jacks which is very strange. I can't get HW oil shipped here and could not find ISO 10 anywhere, the closest I could get was Liquid Wrench, ISO 22. Yes, I know, any jack oil (and other fluids) will work just fine...but given the option of filling it with exactly what it (probably) had in it, or at least as close to it, why not?
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Glad you were able to get it shipped to you. Let us know how it works I was in Napa a few days ago and someone was asking about the jacks and the employees couldn’t tell them anything about them
Pittsburgh or Daytona jack from Harbor Freight best jacks for the money.
I’m not sure it’s going to make much of a difference ... except that you’re located in Alaska where I presume that temperatures could drop quite low. Might be best to make sure any jack is stored indoors. You might consider looking up operating temps for whatever oil weight you’re using. I sure hope you don’t need to do any car work outdoors in 0F weather!
BTW, I know you were thinking about what the “assembled in US from US and global components” label meant on the HW. check out your owners manual parts list. I do believe that parts with 6 digits (xxxxxx) are the US components, and the parts with a digit and hyphen (xxx-xxxx-xxxx) are the imported components. basically, the 6 digit parts have the same part numbers used by HW jacks that are currently/or were labeled totally “made in usa”, and the digit-hyphen part numbers are new since they went to the “assembled” label.
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I have that one and while not a Harbor Freight fan I must admit this jack is great.
