There's lots of discussion about the filtering media for these Ford filters but no one discusses the design/location of the bypass valve. The Motorcraft filter has the valve designed to bypass oil straight out without washing over the dirty media. The only articles I have seen regarding this are rather out of date so I don't know if the info is still correct, but they show no other filters meeting this criteria. So, just how important do you folks think this is? How often do oil filters run in bypass anyway? I've got an F150, 4.6 still on factory fill so I'm doing my homework before the first OC. My last F250 was 23 when I got rid of it and I plan on keeping this one just as long. The plan is Motorcraft oil (US SemiSyn) and filters all the way but I'm open to suggestions and friendly debate. Cheers.
FL820S replacements and bypass valves
- Thread starter Seguino
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Hey where are you getting the motorcraft oil here? i'm in richmond. Are you getting it at the dealership? if so how much is it?
Lucky enough to have a buddy with a Nexus pass who buys it at WalMart in Bellingham for me when he goes.
Why reinvent the wheel? You last truck went 23 years. Do you really believe that technology has gone backwards? I don't either. Stick with what Ford recommends and you'll likely get 23 more out of this one.
The 5W-20 lubes seem stout enough for any use you'll put your truck to. The MC semi-syn is a very good oil at a friendly price.
Filters operate in the by-pass mode when oil pressure to the engine through the filter media drops too much. This might be caused by cold weather start-ups, if the oil has gotten too thick to push through the media at sufficient rate of flow, or if the filter is full and won't flow oil at a high enough rate.
The 5W-20 lubes seem stout enough for any use you'll put your truck to. The MC semi-syn is a very good oil at a friendly price.
Filters operate in the by-pass mode when oil pressure to the engine through the filter media drops too much. This might be caused by cold weather start-ups, if the oil has gotten too thick to push through the media at sufficient rate of flow, or if the filter is full and won't flow oil at a high enough rate.
And the last one went that long on..............Fram filters!
I've often wondered how important the location of the bypass valve is as well. I'm unaware of a filter of the same design, so I've just stuck with the Motorcraft filter.
I have done considerable whining about dome end bypasses. Considering that Fram, Purolator, conventional construction Champs, and some others use dome end filters, I struggle to prove they will destroy your engine. Still, when you can buy a Motorcraft for the same price usually having the thread end Ford specifies, why buy a dome end one? Better yet if your number is one that an ST Ecore is available, you can get one made by an American company for less.
Some of the higher end American filters such as Wix and Baldwin have thread end bypasses.
Evidence the filter makes much difference? Slim to none.
Some of the higher end American filters such as Wix and Baldwin have thread end bypasses.
Evidence the filter makes much difference? Slim to none.
Wix usually have a base end bypass. See no need to not use the motorcraft though. You can have bypass at High RPM hot oil also -is there not more differential (PSID) when the oil is watery?
Guess I'll stick with the tried and true Motorcraft, especially since it's like four bucks at a US WalMart. ($9.00 at the dealer in Canada! Wonder if they're the same filter). Maybe sometime in the future when the truck is well broken in I'll try a Ford Racing filter and see if it makes any difference in wear metals.
Originally Posted By: Seguino
Guess I'll stick with the tried and true Motorcraft, especially since it's like four bucks at a US WalMart. ($9.00 at the dealer in Canada! Wonder if they're the same filter).
The Motorcraft filters sold at Wally's and at the dealer are in fact the same filter, at least here in the US.
Guess I'll stick with the tried and true Motorcraft, especially since it's like four bucks at a US WalMart. ($9.00 at the dealer in Canada! Wonder if they're the same filter).
The Motorcraft filters sold at Wally's and at the dealer are in fact the same filter, at least here in the US.
Originally Posted By: labman
Some of the higher end American filters such as Wix and Baldwin have thread end bypasses.
Evidence the filter makes much difference? Slim to none.
I agree with labman. A huge number of Crown Vics that have spent their entire lives in police/taxi use have gone 250k and more using every filter brand out there.
Having said that, I also agree with this statement:
Originally Posted By: labman
Still, when you can buy a Motorcraft for the same price usually having the thread end Ford specifies, why buy a dome end one?
Some of the higher end American filters such as Wix and Baldwin have thread end bypasses.
Evidence the filter makes much difference? Slim to none.
I agree with labman. A huge number of Crown Vics that have spent their entire lives in police/taxi use have gone 250k and more using every filter brand out there.
Having said that, I also agree with this statement:
Originally Posted By: labman
Still, when you can buy a Motorcraft for the same price usually having the thread end Ford specifies, why buy a dome end one?
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Wix usually have a base end bypass. See no need to not use the motorcraft though.
Based on the filtering performace specs I've seen on the FL820S (only 80% @ 20 microns), I would use the WIX or NAPA Gold instead if you want to have the base end bypass valve setup and good filtering performance.
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
You can have bypass at High RPM hot oil also -is there not more differential (PSID) when the oil is watery?
From the flow test data I've seen on filter "PSID vs Flow Rate" with hot oil, I think the only way you could get a filter to go into bypass with hot oil is if the oil pump put out mega GPMs (like 25+), or the the filter was so clogged up that the PSID across the media was above the bypass valve setting.
The most likely scenario for a clean filter to go into bypass mode would be with very cold weather starts and not letting the oil warm up some before revving the engine much above idle.
Wix usually have a base end bypass. See no need to not use the motorcraft though.
Based on the filtering performace specs I've seen on the FL820S (only 80% @ 20 microns), I would use the WIX or NAPA Gold instead if you want to have the base end bypass valve setup and good filtering performance.
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
You can have bypass at High RPM hot oil also -is there not more differential (PSID) when the oil is watery?
From the flow test data I've seen on filter "PSID vs Flow Rate" with hot oil, I think the only way you could get a filter to go into bypass with hot oil is if the oil pump put out mega GPMs (like 25+), or the the filter was so clogged up that the PSID across the media was above the bypass valve setting.
The most likely scenario for a clean filter to go into bypass mode would be with very cold weather starts and not letting the oil warm up some before revving the engine much above idle.
So, under "normal" conditions the filter shouldn't ever go into bypass, correct?
Correct.
Don'y mean to hijack, but someone put these in order for me:
Motorcraft, K&N, M1, Pureone.. in terms of filters. Thanks.
Motorcraft, K&N, M1, Pureone.. in terms of filters. Thanks.
It seems that the Wix application has the bypass in the domed end
I think river_rats test conclusions are forthcoming but the Pure One / Bosch will be at the top for filtration but some may flow better. Not far behind but at a much lower cost will be the Puro Classics, Motorcraft. Also in the second group will be Wix/Napa Gold but those are about $7.00 at my local stores. Those conclusions seem to be in line with what many expect but the surprise to me was that K&N and M1 (Champion Labs top tier) could not match the P1 filtration at a higher price. Some support "you get what you pay for" and some don't. Super Tech at $2.50 is still an over achiever. Amsoil EoA was not tested but I would expect it and Donaldson to at the top with the P1. He may have done Donaldson nanofiber, I can't remember, and the thread is 28 pages and still going.
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Quote:
The Motorcraft filter has the valve designed to bypass oil straight out without washing over the dirty media.
Although I've seen some alleged authoritative reference to this, the people at Champ, who make the OEM assembly line filter ..while giving us the reason for Ford's insistence (for decades) for the openend bypass is due to silt. Stuff falling out of suspension and just sitting there ..waiting for a flow to carry it away. If the bypass is in the dome end, and the filter is vertically mounted ..that's where the silt will be. I have a hard time "washing" media with brake clean to see anything leaving the media ..but as you can see
that silt can be something REAL. This is a gross demonstration since it's moly sinking out of suspension ..but the action is the same for anything that has enough dwell time where the flow was sustaining the particles in suspension.
The flow would wash over this mass too, whether it was gravel or fairy dust. The open end eliminates the potential for any bypass activity to allow this sequestered material from escaping filtration.
That said, I don't really care whether it's open end or dome end.
Quote:
Do you really believe that technology has gone backwards?
Yes and no. We've mostly complicated reliable mechanisms for no good reason as evidenced by the benefits they bring over obsolete methods.
The Motorcraft filter has the valve designed to bypass oil straight out without washing over the dirty media.
Although I've seen some alleged authoritative reference to this, the people at Champ, who make the OEM assembly line filter ..while giving us the reason for Ford's insistence (for decades) for the openend bypass is due to silt. Stuff falling out of suspension and just sitting there ..waiting for a flow to carry it away. If the bypass is in the dome end, and the filter is vertically mounted ..that's where the silt will be. I have a hard time "washing" media with brake clean to see anything leaving the media ..but as you can see
that silt can be something REAL. This is a gross demonstration since it's moly sinking out of suspension ..but the action is the same for anything that has enough dwell time where the flow was sustaining the particles in suspension.
The flow would wash over this mass too, whether it was gravel or fairy dust. The open end eliminates the potential for any bypass activity to allow this sequestered material from escaping filtration.
That said, I don't really care whether it's open end or dome end.
Quote:
Do you really believe that technology has gone backwards?
Yes and no. We've mostly complicated reliable mechanisms for no good reason as evidenced by the benefits they bring over obsolete methods.
The thread end bypass isn't very important to me. I have cut a lot of filters open, and haven't seen any grit that would get washed off. I think the ADBV is more important, and it is very stout on the Motorcraft. Even more stout than the PureONE ADBV.
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I'm unsure who produces PureOne's ADBV, but here is Champ's M1 and the other, I suspect, is what Wix uses in the EaO. Both are Parker®
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