fixing rust with POR-15

[Donald]

I have some minor rust where the sheet metal was bent back up on the door. Its about 1/2" from the bottom of the door when the bent up metal ends. I have a new can of POR-15. Do I need the POR-15 Metal Ready? I don't mind buying the stuff it will allow the POR-15 to do a better job.

 

[229]

It is as you said but you do not have to use it. Good product.

 

[JHZR2]

Yes, do it right or not at all.

Degrease, metal ready to get the zinc phosphate down, then do it. Rust needs to be there to bond to, slightly scuff the sound paint next to the spot and overlap. Do a few light coats. Make sure temp is ok.

 

[Milkman]

How much is this POR-15 stuff and where can I buy it? I have 2 small rust scabs in the wheel opening of my Buick that won't seem to go away. (I tried a few other products) The car is black in color.

Thanks

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: Milkman
How much is this POR-15 stuff and where can I buy it? I have 2 small rust scabs in the wheel opening of my Buick that won't seem to go away. (I tried a few other products) The car is black in color.

Thanks


Eastwood sells their own and POR-15. I found the POR-15 at a Carquest store, but it was expensive, about $12 for a 8 oz if I remember right. After reading the review I am (again) up in the air about what to use. Here is a review by someone who seems pretty independent. http://www.eastwood.com/por-15-vs-rust-encapsulator-products-comparision-part-1

 

[Donald]

I bought a QT of the Eastwood Rust Encapsulater. They have free shipping on your first order if you sign up for their email. Given you don't have to buy the Metal Ready (nor apply it) the Eastwood sounded easier and cheaper and just as good.

 

[Milkman]

Thanks All...

The rust seems to be in the area of the welds. I'm gonna try this Eastwood stuff.

 

[doitmyself]

Often times the rust on door bottoms is coming from the inside out. Moisture and salt vapor (rust belt) works into the seams from the inside and the rust grows out. This needs to be addressed along with the exterior rust.

 

[JHZR2]

Right, krown or carwell is critical to protecting that.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Often times the rust on door bottoms is coming from the inside out. Moisture and salt vapor (rust belt) works into the seams from the inside and the rust grows out. This needs to be addressed along with the exterior rust.

My rust is between #1 and #2. I am going to use a "prep pen" to clean away some of the rust flakes, then clean with alcohol then Eastwood Rust Encapsulator.

Do I need to do more?

How about some Fluid Film inside. Or an Eastwood product inside?

 

[JHZR2]

eastwood dries hard, though it shouldnt be easily damaged in there so should be OK. Im worried about self-heal on the eastwood wax stuff. Look at Carwell for some creeping protective stuff. Not used FF yet to know how well it creeps once it starts to dry.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Often times the rust on door bottoms is coming from the inside out. Moisture and salt vapor (rust belt) works into the seams from the inside and the rust grows out. This needs to be addressed along with the exterior rust.

I did one door today. One of the problems is they had a line of caulk or sealant between 1 & 2 on the bottom and up about 6" on each side. I pulled it away and it came away like a line of caulk. It was holding rust around and under it. So I wire brushed that area and cleaned it and put on Eastwood RE.

They tell you to pour some out, or spoon some out. So I spooned some out into a plastic cup. Then using a tiny brush, painted on the Eadtwood RE along the rust line.

What they don't tell you: don't use a plastic cup, after 10 minutes it will be dissolved and leak. Also if you do use a plastic cup don't hold it over your pants.

How long does Eastwood RE take to dry, on my pants that is so I can wash them?

 

[doitmyself]

Thanks for sharing your experience. You have piqued my interest in the Eastwood product. It seems that the Eastwood product must have some chemical reaction component.

The challenge now is to apply some type of product that will creep, to the inside of the door to slow down the rust that is coming from the inside. Otherwise, the rust will continue to develop inside, behind the Eastwood....between parts 3 and 4.

Supposedly, Krown and Rust Check creep into these seams and slow down existing rust.

I hope those were not good pants.

 

[Donald]

Eastwood suggested doing more than using their Rust Encapsulator. Maybe there is rust down inside the seam and their way will get that. Note the rust I am talking about is where the outside door sheet metal is folded back on itself. That seam. It joins some inner sheet metal about 1" up, but there is no rust up there.

Eastwood suggestions: (of course they want me to use a bunch of their products).


I would treat the INTERIOR of the doors w/ the Fast Etch rust remover #19415zp followed by the PRE Prep #10194zp.

Then treat w/ the Rust Emncapsulator paint #16065zp followed by the Anti-Rust #16017z…

 

[ted s]

you aint going to stop it

 

[FXjohn]

Originally Posted By: ted s
you aint going to stop it


sure you can. it's a lot of work though. You have to stop the rust from getting any oxygen

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: FXjohn
Originally Posted By: ted s
you aint going to stop it


sure you can. it's a lot of work though. You have to stop the rust from getting any oxygen


That would be why one uses the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator.

 

[LeakySeals]

Use drill grinding pad to remove as much rust as you can. Remove 1/2" surrounding paint if possible. You need to be sure there is no salt absorbed into the rusty area, high pressure water spray will help with that. I used this method with Rust Bullet 2 years ago on a Ford Taurus, so far so good. Results should be similar with POR product.

 

[Kestas]

Originally Posted By: ted s
you aint going to stop it

I too am skeptical, especially if you think the treatmenet will last for a long time. If this treatment works so well, why don't we treat new cars with it? Why aren't there shops buying POR-15 in bulk and catering to this business?

I think this product is intended only for cars that are retired from salt duty.

 

[LeakySeals]

Originally Posted By: Kestas
If this treatment works so well, why don't we treat new cars with it? Why aren't there shops buying POR-15 in bulk and catering to this business?


Because new car dealers want you to buy a new car. The shops want repeat customers. Also you may be confusing intended use (existing rust vs rust proofing)