This is going to be my first time fluishing the radiator and I pretty much know everything I'm doing. However, only thing I am afraid of is burping the hoses and somehow not getting a bubble out. If there is a bubble that I don't get rid of, I hear I'd get a "low coolant" warning. Just to be on the safe side, after finishing the job, I'm going to rev the car at about 1500-2000 RPMs in neutral for a little while to make sure if I get that light, I get it while sitting there parked- not driving (yeah, I'm paranoid haha.) How many minutes of revving at low RPMs would it take until I am sure there's no chance of getting a low coolant warning, when I drive the car next?
First Time Flushing Cooling System
- Thread starter Chuck1986
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Squeeze the upper hose to force as much fluid in as possible. I idle mine for about a minute or so then let the pressure release. Top off. Fill the surge tank. Around the block with the heater on high. Keep an eye on it for the next week or so. Doing it this way, I've never had a problem.
If the bubbles don't burp out initially, they will when your car is fully warmed up. That probably won't happen from just idling. Accel/brake/turning action helps move bubbles out as well. I suggest keeping a container with some extra coolant mix in the car with you for the first couple days.
Chuck, after flushing your cooling system, squeeze the upper hose with the reservoir cap off and see if that burps out any air. After you have made sure that your engine is not running hot and that the heater is fully on, fill the reservoir up as far as you can without overfilling, then go and take a good 30 minute long drive to get everything circulating and hot. Before you go to bed, remove the reservoir cap, and if the engine is cold, remove the radiator cap as well, and any air in the system should be able to escape. Just remember to top off in the morning and tighten the caps before leaving.
You can add fluid to the reservoir or radiator, the fluid will get in there either way.
You can add fluid to the reservoir or radiator, the fluid will get in there either way.
"CT" hit it all right on the spot. Just always make sure the radiator is cool before adding coolant. You don't want to risk shock cooling the metal, much less burning yourself.
Just drain the radiator and recovery tank. Don't stick a garden hose in the radiator and run the engine like some people say to do. This will introduce air into the system causing the pump to cavitate ( pumping air and not liquid) which can cause the engine to overheat.
If your recovery tank has a vent hole, this will allow the system to burp while idling. Some engines have a bleed screw on the thermostat housing that you can back out to allow air to excape.
Make sure you refill the system with the factory recommended coolant mixed 50/50 with distilled water.
If your recovery tank has a vent hole, this will allow the system to burp while idling. Some engines have a bleed screw on the thermostat housing that you can back out to allow air to excape.
Make sure you refill the system with the factory recommended coolant mixed 50/50 with distilled water.
I'm surprised no one's asked what model of car and engine this is. Some engines need burping, some don't, some have special valves to bleed the air.
If using regular (green) coolant, i would change it every 12 months or 12K miles.
If using red/orange Dex-cool compatible coolant, you could go longer, 24 months, 24-30K miles, but i would not go the 100K or whatever rediculous claim the bottle makes
THe manual in my '01 V6-626 says change it first at 60K then every 30K thereafter. Sounds pretty decent to me. Although i changed mine at 24K intervals since new.
If using red/orange Dex-cool compatible coolant, you could go longer, 24 months, 24-30K miles, but i would not go the 100K or whatever rediculous claim the bottle makes
THe manual in my '01 V6-626 says change it first at 60K then every 30K thereafter. Sounds pretty decent to me. Although i changed mine at 24K intervals since new.
My car has an open hose that goes from the top of the coolant tank and is directed towards the ground. Pretty basic but it seems this would let all the "air" out...
How often do you/should you flush coolant? I'm at 37,000 miles and noticed my collant was 2-3 inches below Full(COLD) line so I just added some Prestone coolant.
How often do you/should you flush coolant? I'm at 37,000 miles and noticed my collant was 2-3 inches below Full(COLD) line so I just added some Prestone coolant.
What model of car is this? And what engine?
Suprised noone has said to point the car up a hill. (Drive on ramps also count). The rad cap will (probably) be higher than the highest point in the motor.
After you've driven and fully warmed up, leave the radiator cap on and don't do anything. It needs the cap for the vacuum to form that sucks coolant back from the overflow bottle.
The next morning when it's all cold, remove the rad cap and make sure the rad is full. After that you can go a week before checking again, and, again, cold. You should notice the overflow tank down a bit, top off as needed.
Also you'll need to find your low coolant sensor. If it's on the overflow tank it's possible your rad could be low and the tank ok particularly if the suction never develops.
After you've driven and fully warmed up, leave the radiator cap on and don't do anything. It needs the cap for the vacuum to form that sucks coolant back from the overflow bottle.
The next morning when it's all cold, remove the rad cap and make sure the rad is full. After that you can go a week before checking again, and, again, cold. You should notice the overflow tank down a bit, top off as needed.
Also you'll need to find your low coolant sensor. If it's on the overflow tank it's possible your rad could be low and the tank ok particularly if the suction never develops.
Are you really flushing the radiator? Years ago there were heater hoses where one could cut and install a "T" adapter. Now the heater hoses are mostly metal with a few rubber hose connectors, but no where to install a "T" flush adaptor. When one goes to a mechanic for a flush they install an adaptor inline with the radiator hose (I think) and push fresh fluid through the system. They may also push a cleaner through, not sure. While I think its overpriced, its better than just plain draining the radiator.
If I had a professional flush my radiator on an older car I'd have "global" AF installed.
If I had a professional flush my radiator on an older car I'd have "global" AF installed.
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