First time ESP 0W-30 user

I’m guessing with the slight residual oil that is left in any engine when changing the oil, a flat 6 will fill to full.

IIRC, the oil capacity listed is for a fresh//dry/totally empty engine. It’s technically the capacity but in reality, 6 is fine.
The oil capacity listed in the owner’s manual should be the amount needed to bring it back to full after an oil change, not the total amount needed if filling a brand new dry engine. That being said, my Corvette lists the capacity as 7 quarts but it actually only needs about 5.5 to 5.75 quarts after an oil change. My Civic’s listed capacity is totally correct, as well as every other car that I have ever owned.
 
You will be fine with 5,000 mile oil changes. I had a 2013 KIA Optima and that interval worked for me. I never had a problem. We traded it at 65,000 miles. The owners manual stated 3,750 miles for severe service and 7,500 for normal service. I split the difference.
The Mobil 1 ESP 0W30 is a perfect oil for that engine.
This. ^^^^^^ I’ve had many Hyundais over the years, including the 2.4. The 0w-30 ESP and 5k changes will work great. One key to help them last a bit is to use easy throttle until it is completely warm.
 
This. ^^^^^^ I’ve had many Hyundais over the years, including the 2.4. The 0w-30 ESP and 5k changes will work great. One key to help them last a bit is to use easy throttle until it is completely warm.
5,000 mile oil changes and don't use the ECO mode.
 
That being said, my Corvette lists the capacity as 7 quarts but it actually only needs about 5.5 to 5.75 quarts after an oil change.

That's...a pretty wide spread no? Wet or dry sump?

My Outback lists 5.1qts, it gets 5. The Equinox lists 6, it gets 6. Depending on the size of the filter can, it all evens out. The really annoying ones are the .5's. The GM 4300 for instance, lists 4.5 qts, I always dumped the full 5 qt jug.
 
That's...a pretty wide spread no? Wet or dry sump?

Mine is the wet sump. I was surprised when I did the first oil change but other base model C7 owners told me the same thing. I do wonder if dealers are overfilling them when they do oil changes or if they just put in the lesser amount in order to get the dipstick to the right level.
 
IMHO, since you can easily change oil and the engine is GDI with a turbo, just keep changing it every 4k miles. If you go longer then do UOA. I think filter can be changed every second oil change thou.
This ^^ … On a Hyundai / Kia turbo run a 3K to 4K mile / 6 month OCI running M1 0W30 / 5W30 ESP . If you are having any oil loss over the OCI - then switch to VR&P 5W30 using the same OCI until the ring packs are cleaned up and oil loss subsides .
 
I'm the OP. So far with this Santa Fe I've seen absolutely no oil loss visually on the dipstick. Come to think of it, I've never seen any oil loss on any of our H/K vehicles. I've always done 3.5 to 4000 mile oci.
 
This. ^^^^^^ I’ve had many Hyundais over the years, including the 2.4. The 0w-30 ESP and 5k changes will work great. One key to help them last a bit is to use easy throttle until it is completely warm.
The Hyundai/KIA 2.4 engine has a compression ratio of 13:1. Running 91 to 93 octane fuel is important. DO NOT run 87 octane in these engines. You are asking for trouble. Knock sensors and the computer might not save you.
The current 2.5 NA has a 13:1 compression ratio. The 2.5T has a 10.5:1 compression ratio.
 
The Hyundai/KIA 2.4 engine has a compression ratio of 13:1. Running 91 to 93 octane fuel is important. DO NOT run 87 octane in these engines. You are asking for trouble. Knock sensors and the computer might not save you.
The current 2.5 NA has a 13:1 compression ratio. The 2.5T has a 10.5:1 compression ratio.
@MParr do you notice some issue with your vehicle, or one in your care?

Most all D.I. N.A. engines are designed with scary high, high static compression. If you don't get a little marble rattle on throttle tip-in and the engine isnt laying down when hot - or over fueling, the regular 87 should do it. Thats what I found on my VW 1.4tsi and my previous Ford 2.0 NA. Regular 97 was fine in most driving scenarios - but I don't do fully laden heavy hauling in 90deg F temps.

On throttled cruise, these engines use multi event injection with a stratified charge - with a late puff just before ignition to put a rich pocket of fuel near the spark plug tip. The evaporation should calm the compressed charge.

But you are at the mercy of the engineers and developers and their capability and time constraints to market. If 87 isn't working move to a higher octane. Be careful going back to 87 if 91 or 93 is too $$$. It will take a bit of relearn and things can be nasty for a bit.
I am breaking in and trying to figure out what my brand new Ford 2.0L turbo (with a Bosch ECU) wants. Oddly it doesn't want to fueled over 1/2 a tank for some reason. I know the dealer may have flooded the evap, they filled the tank before I got a chance to tell them not to fill the tank. I'm giving it some time to self correct this behavior.

- Arco
 
Last edited:
I tried 89 and 91 gas in Sportage and all in all it made no difference, actually I saw a little worse gas mileage but engine seemed to run a little smoother that's all. There was one time thou when I filled up with mid grade at Chevron in OR and made about 100km more on a tank, I'm still scratching my head what the... they sold me :D
 
You will be fine with 5,000 mile oil changes. I had a 2013 KIA Optima and that interval worked for me. I never had a problem. We traded it at 65,000 miles. The owners manual stated 3,750 miles for severe service and 7,500 for normal service. I split the difference.
The Mobil 1 ESP 0W30 is a perfect oil for that engine.
Newer reports coming in that stuck or carbined up oil rings can occur with 5K mile OCI’s . With Hyundai / Kia engines I subscribe to no more than 4K mile OCI’s .
 
Back
Top Bottom