First rust repair

[supton]

Few months ago I painted over a rust patch in the rear; I wasn't going to bother with Fluid Film this year but while doing a tire rotation I figured, I'd at least use the rattle can stuff. Noticed a lot of dirt buildup, so I started scraping that off; then I noticed that the wheel liner was kinda wet, so pulled that down... while poking around I found a spot where it went through. Time to grind and to JB Weld in some metal flashing, eek out a couple more years.

2011 Camry, 230k, 10 years--guess it was time.

 

[HankHill]

Is that part structural?

Depending on the monetary value of the car vs. future gain.. I would just weld a patch over it.

And if that part is indeed structural, I would not drive it again. I had frame rot in a crown Victoria.. I figured it would be good for at least the winter. The frame broke on it, and it went into a ditch going 40 mph. It can be deadly.

 

[supton]

Unibody car, so kinda structural. But sheetmetal. Too thin to weld. I think it too out of the way to be of concern: the other patches, higher up and closer to the strut, worry me more…

Knew I wanted to trade out of this car last summer! oh well, it’ll go another year or two (or until I come across a deal).

 

[eljefino]

Get a hammer and knock out the adjacent rust, and spray fluid film in behind it.

JB weld is good but some mechanical fastening is a good idea too, self tapping screws or Pop_Rivets.

Don't forget to hose the mess down with black spray paint or rubberized undercoating when done, for appearances sake.

 

[Wrenchturner44]

You have another less laborious option. Grind the two areas where the holes are just knocking off the loose material.

You then can use this material to cover over the holes and seal the surrounding area. https://www.amazon.com/Evercoat-1190-Strand-Reinforced-Filler/dp/B000P70UQW

Just make sure you use enough hardener / catalyst for the temps you are working in. After it kicks or cures, you can spray undercoat over the repaired area.

 

[Supersonic]

Yep, nice if you can grind down past the rust layer. I usually just want to slow the rusting and unless I know the rust layer is gone, covering it up only gives less access to monitor it. For my cars it's usually sprayed with the Liquid Wench lubricant in the blue can, not the penetrate (yellow can). I am only trying to slow the rusting and protect the metal from water, not so much seeking a permanent fix.

My latest rust hole was found under the splash shield, it's eventually going need a permanent fix , but for now I cleaned it out, wire brushed, then the Permatex Rust Treatment (Advance Auto link). I would have never found that hole had I not taken off the splash shield when doing the water pump, coolant drains over the shield and runs all over so by the 3rd time of removing the water pump I removed it. I think next year I am going to look at replacing the whole front sub-frame ~$200 + my labor or weld in a very sturdy patch repair. I planned this 2012 Sedona to be the winter beater and hoped for about 4 or 5 winters service.

Here's 2 left views and then the right side, as you can see the right side is just a small hole intended by the manufacturer, where the left side got enlarged from rusting, vehicle is from Wisconsin. Lesson here is check sub-frames thoroughly.

 

[supton]

I should have spent more time grinding, but didn't want to deal with it--wire brushed it a bit, slapped some quick setting JB on it, some flashing. Once that set I went back over it and feathered more on. If I have the car next year I'll see how it is holding up, and maybe do a better job of grinding and sealing.

It's well hidden--which is the problem. It's behind a felt liner, which acts as a sand trap. No joke, after pulling both liners I think I swept up 10lb of sand. Hosed it down with FF, put liners back, hope for the best.