First post! & question

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This web site is pretty sweet. Never new I could learn so much stuff about oil.

Oh I have my first annoying newbie question too. I mixed some M1 with some Supertech full synthetic in my truck, is this a bad thing? 1qt M1 4qt Supertech.

TONY
 
that's good to hear. I was hoping for some reason the oils wouldn't conflict and need to drain it out of there.

TONY
 
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No problem with the mixing. Some of us do it in the hope of improving our results.
 
I have mixed Citgo synthetic and conventional in one car, and Citgo conventional and Havoline conventional in another.

I did this in hopes of making improvements in shelf space. I don't like to do this too often. It probably results in a very minor degradation in performance from whatever the best oil is, but I figure it's better than pouring the odd quart into the waste oil container . . .

I suspect Tony's reasons are similar.
 
Yeah, I just didn't want to leave a lonely quart of M1 sitting in the garage all by itself
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I wasn't trying to make anything special out of it.

TONY

Another question I have is synthetic oil in a new engine. I'm pretty sure I read Bob likes to use Dino oil for the first 12k miles to break the motor in. He then switches to synthetic. What about all the cars from GM that come from the factory with M1 (I work at a GM dealership)

Also I've read a lot about dino vs synth. and didn't really come to a conclusion which was better on your engine via UOA's... 3-4k OCI's of dino or 6K+ synth.
 
There are many people that think the synthetic reluctance in the early miles is misguided. Either the rings seat great or they don't....and that may be more of a function of how much pressure the rings are exposed to early in the engine's life, before the roughest cylinder cross-hatchings are smoothed a lot by the rings. Dino or synthetic doesn't matter. I tend toward the side that says run it hard very early for a short time, then if you want to go easy for 1000 miles, fine. Sure works for motorcycles...I've had some very impressive stock cycles put out unexpectedly good dyno runs and the engines outlived my expectations while not burning oil. I don't know why this wouldn't apply to cars....but, I'm not an engineer, so I don't claim to actually know the "best thing" to do.
 
My take on all those cars that come with M1 from the factory is that all of them are high end vehicles, assembled in limited numbers if you compare to the cheaper mass produced models.
I think their engines are being run on dynos at the assembly point to make sure that they produce the correct horsepower/torque numbers.
So basically they're being broken-in right at the engine factory.

Dino vs synthetic is a broad topic. Please use the search button. It's been discussed a lot.
In a couple of words, if you don't mind frequent oil changes and easy on you car, don't tow, don't live on the north pole, don't live in the Mojave Desert and don't drive a sludge monster then dinos are just fine.
Otherwise use a good synthetic like GC. Check out the GC forum.
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The reason that people break in engines on conventional oil is that they are generally going to change it early because an engine has plenty of dirt in it from assembly, and sheds lots of metals during break-in. No use throwing away expensive synthetic oil like that. Some people (not me)feel comfortable that the oil filter is going to catch all the crud, so they leave the oil in longer. Honda sometimes uses a special oil as a factory fill and recommends that people leave it in for several thousand miles. Other companies don't. Then it's your choice. Synthetic oil isn't going to stop the engine from breaking in or anything. Mostly it just flows better in the cold, and lasts longer.

The debate about shorter OCIs with conventional oil or longer OCIs with synthetic oil will never be settled. Consider these two things when making your own decision:

1) Synthetic oil does not break down as quickly as conventional oil, but it does pick up condensation, fuel dilution, and dirt just as fast. The only way to get these out is to drain the oil.

2) As specifications improve, the difference between conventional oil and synthetic oil keeps getting smaller.
 
Yes, I have searched a lot on this site and it is very informative.

One funny thing that I have notice about GM cars and calling for M1 oil is.... My car, '98 Trans Am has the LS1 engine. It is the same engine as in the corvette but the corvette calls for M1. I guess GM figures people will be running their vettes a lot harder and need the extra protection. But, I feel the F-bodies get ran a lot harder than most vettes because younger adults can afford them like me (22). Also the 4.6L Northstar in the new SRX's call for M1 but none of the other northstars call for it.... interesting
 
regarding GC. I've looked at lots of castrol syntec (we offer it at work) and all of them have made in USA on the back. Where do you find Germany produced Castrol Syntec?

TONY
 
Tony,

Autozone is the only place in the USA that sells German produced Castrol Syntec 0w30.

Most other Syntecs are made in the USA, with one noteable exception: Syntec 5w40, which is made in Belgium.
 
haha I like how there is such a following for the GC. Suprised people haven't been mixing Havoline and GC for the best of both worlds
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. Now that I know that it only comes in 0w-30 I think I'll search for some to use in the Trans Am. Been using Supertech syn. and M1 in it.
 
quote:

haha I like how there is such a following for the GC. Suprised people haven't been mixing Havoline and GC for the best of both worlds

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!
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I can't speak for the LS1 engines, but I can tell you that the newer Northstars that use VVT require synthetics for the oil pump that drives the VVT mechanism. That pump requires the consistency that synthetics offer to function correctly. Other than the pump, there is nothing else mechanically different that introduces the synthetic requirement. The same may or may not be true for the LS1, I don't know for sure.
 
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