First Oil Change 22kw NexGen Generac

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Apr 1, 2024
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I am leaving for ~6 months soon and would like to service my new generator. It has 13 hours, the manual states the first oil change is at 25 hrs, then every 2 years or 200 hours after that. Generac is also specific about not switching to synthetic before the 25 hours, you must wait until after the break in. They are clear it is filled with “organic” oil from the factory. I plan on a euro 5w-30 or 0w-30.

Let me knew how you would proceed. Assuming switching to synthetic won’t affect break in, and just want to be covered for this winter if the hours pile up, I don’t want that original oil still in there.
 
I would change oil and filter at 5-10 hours and again at double that just to inspect the filter. I'd use a basic / conventional 5/10w30 and I'd run the generator under load for at least 30 minutes before the change.

Then I'd switch to a premium 5w30/40 and filter (99% @ 20u minimum) and see how it goes. Maybe do oil analysis after the 400 hr change.
 
I am leaving for ~6 months soon and would like to service my new generator. It has 13 hours, the manual states the first oil change is at 25 hrs, then every 2 years or 200 hours after that. Generac is also specific about not switching to synthetic before the 25 hours, you must wait until after the break in. They are clear it is filled with “organic” oil from the factory. I plan on a euro 5w-30 or 0w-30.

Let me knew how you would proceed. Assuming switching to synthetic won’t affect break in, and just want to be covered for this winter if the hours pile up, I don’t want that original oil still in there.

Are we supposed to assume this is a propane or natural gas engine? Or is it gasoline? Diesel?

Natural gas engines generally need and benefit from different oils because they have effectively zero soot loading.

I'd personally steer you towards a DELO grade oil from Chevron. They are delivering some of the best ashless additive technology on the market and in an engine running on propane or natural gas, you want a very low ash (low SAPS) oil. I'd strongly encourage the Delo 600 ADF in 15w-40.

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Are we supposed to assume this is a propane or natural gas engine? Or is it gasoline? Diesel?

Natural gas engines generally need and benefit from different oils because they have effectively zero soot loading.

I'd personally steer you towards a DELO grade oil from Chevron. They are delivering some of the best ashless additive technology on the market and in an engine running on propane or natural gas, you want a very low ash (low SAPS) oil. I'd strongly encourage the Delo 600 ADF in 15w-40.

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LP generator. Due to where I live, I want 0w-xx or 5w-xx so that delo 400 xsp is the only choice you listed I’d use. I think that would have 1% ash content, I’m planning on using a C3 oil that should have 0.8%. I wish they made 600 adf in more grades.
I would change oil and filter at 5-10 hours and again at double that just to inspect the filter. I'd use a basic / conventional 5/10w30 and I'd run the generator under load for at least 30 minutes before the change.

Then I'd switch to a premium 5w30/40 and filter (99% @ 20u minimum) and see how it goes. Maybe do oil analysis after the 400 hr change.
I guess we are on the same page. After making the post I drove to ACE, picked up API SQ 5W-30 ace brand oil, which appears to be blended by SOPUS and is probably a synthetic blend. Planning on changing it at 25 hrs. If I’m away and it goes over 25, it at least will be fresh oil.
 
LP generator. Due to where I live, I want 0w-xx or 5w-xx so that delo 400 xsp is the only choice you listed I’d use. I think that would have 1% ash content, I’m planning on using a C3 oil that should have 0.8%. I wish they made 600 adf in more grades.

I guess we are on the same page. After making the post I drove to ACE, picked up API SQ 5W-30 ace brand oil, which appears to be blended by SOPUS and is probably a synthetic blend. Planning on changing it at 25 hrs. If I’m away and it goes over 25, it at least will be fresh oil.
Your perceived need for 00w or 5w is likely a self contrived limitation not backed by viscometrics.

A 15w oil will crank reliably to 20F.
 
Your perceived need for 00w or 5w is likely a self contrived limitation not backed by viscometrics.

A 15w oil will crank reliably to 20F.
Well I remember temps of -9F this winter and -20F a winter or two before. Sustained temps around 0F are very common where I am at. Still think I should not use a 5W?
 
Not sure, I installed mine myself.
Go it. How much would you anticipate it to run while you are away? If you are pretty confident that it will exceed 25 hours before you return then go ahead and change it. I am somewhat supicious of that "dino oil ony" for the first 25 hours but go ahead and change it with mineral oil if that recommendation concerns you. Just be sure to switch to a synthetic lube when you return and never look back. It seems as if your use case calls for a 0w-X oil and they only make those in full synthetic. If you expect this unit to run a lot then get a real synthetic like Amsoil or HPL as opposed to the common off the shelf "marketing" synthetics. Oil is pretty cheap in the grand scheme of things.
 
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Go it. How much would you anticipate it to run while you are away? If you are pretty confident that it will exceed 25 hours before you return then go ahead and change it. I am somewhat supicious of that "dino oil ony" for the first 25 hours but go ahead and change it with mineral oil if that recommendation concerns you. Just be sure to switch to a sunthetic lube when you return and never look back. It seems as if your use case calls for a 0w-X oil and they only make those in full synthetic.
It’s possible the power never goes out and it only runs weekly for 15 mins, but I would not be suprised if it racked up a day or two of run time if theres a couple outtages. I too am suspicious of the break in oil claim. If I had to assume, they just don’t want someone changing it at say 5 hrs, then going to a 200 hour interval while it’s still shedding metal.

I ended up changing it (very shiny), see above with what I used. Next oil change will probably be Mobil 1 ESP 0w30, changed annually.
 
+1 for change it now. What fuel? LPG or CNG? I hope there is some kind of notification with that thing. Guy I know, his neighborhood was out for a few days. Half the neighbors were on automatic generators... They plugged away, full blast 24/7... Only to find out they blew thru 5,7 hundred or more of LPG in only a few days 😬. (That would suuuuuuck, like the time I left the sprinklers on for ~12 hours and had a $400 water bill 🥵
 
Yeah, gotta be ready for that propane bill!

At roughly $4.50 gallon delivered, and at 3.8 gph at 100% output - you’re burning through $17/hour keeping everything on. Even at 50% output (sustaining) it’s burning through nearly $12/hr.

Which I why I stated, in a previous thread, that most folks are better off without a generator, and risking the food spoilage every couple of years.

The generator is a luxury. I have one. We wanted one. But the fuel cost to run it?

Ouch.
 
Yeah, gotta be ready for that propane bill!

At roughly $4.50 gallon delivered, and at 3.8 gph at 100% output - you’re burning through $17/hour keeping everything on. Even at 50% output (sustaining) it’s burning through nearly $12/hr.

Which I why I stated, in a previous thread, that most folks are better off without a generator, and risking the food spoilage every couple of years.

The generator is a luxury. I have one. We wanted one. But the fuel cost to run it?

Ouch.
A lot cheaper than your pipes bursting.
 
Don't Generac generators come with several years of maintenance included?
I got a whole house 20 installed in 2011 and it came with a I believe year of maintenance included. They changed the oil the first time and supposedly checked the valve adjustment but I found it out of spec (a little tight on the exhaust side) the next year. It's been unchanged since then.
 
For me propane cost to run the gen. is low. Yeah 100% load estimates they can be thirsty but you shouldn't be using power like your still on the grid when on the gen. set. Minimizing the load on it they are not bad on fuel.
It's back up power for essentials. Turn up the thermostat when running the A/C, some A/C is better than none for example.
 
High or mid SAPS oil will be fine, but high SAPS can create ash deposits because of how clean an LPG generator runs.

I’ve been looking into this a lot as my Generac is about due for its bi yearly change. Currently has an A3/B4 0w40, but I’m contemplating a mid SAPS C3. Both have a high HTHS for the oils high temps. LPG runs hot.

I also have an oil filter heater for it. Sub 0*F starts have never been an issue. If you do get a heater, AFAIK, you need to stick with the Generac filter because of its unique OD and compatibility with the heater.
 
Well I remember temps of -9F this winter and -20F a winter or two before. Sustained temps around 0F are very common where I am at. Still think I should not use a 5W?
No, you're right to push back on me. I was somehow not grasping the full picture and was thinking more like a higher-hour industrial gas engine that runs a lot of hours.

A 0w or 5w is where you want to be, especially with splash lube. Splash lube makes thinner oil at cold start a bigger priority than a pressure lube setup would be.

Generac's own oil is a 5w-20, so they're happy with the hot performance of a 20 grade. You could choose a 0w-20 low SAPS oil like ESP X2 0w-20 and have superb lubrication down to bitter cold temps with acceptable (for a standby unit) wear rates when hot.

For this case, I think a 0w-20 with the superb cold flow and very low SAPS is where I'd want to be. Bonus points for VW 508.00 approval.
 
No, you're right to push back on me. I was somehow not grasping the full picture and was thinking more like a higher-hour industrial gas engine that runs a lot of hours.

A 0w or 5w is where you want to be, especially with splash lube. Splash lube makes thinner oil at cold start a bigger priority than a pressure lube setup would be.

Generac's own oil is a 5w-20, so they're happy with the hot performance of a 20 grade. You could choose a 0w-20 low SAPS oil like ESP X2 0w-20 and have superb lubrication down to bitter cold temps with acceptable (for a standby unit) wear rates when hot.

For this case, I think a 0w-20 with the superb cold flow and very low SAPS is where I'd want to be. Bonus points for VW 508.00 approval.
It is pressure lube system, has an oil pump and filter
I can’t imagine using a 20-grade in a piece of mission critical equipment like this. For what reason? Just to show off that you can?
My thoughts as well. I’d love to know why they switched their recommendation and name brand oil to 5W-20, it’s air cooled. I’m planning on 0W-30 ESP, though the green dye in the 0W-20 ESPx2 would be nice so I can actually see it on the dipstick!
 
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