First gen XC90?

Joined
Apr 10, 2016
Messages
1,296
Location
Campbellsville, KY
Professional solo mechanic of 8 years here. I've worked on very few Volvos in my time, but one that I have quite a bit of history with is a 1st gen XC90 T5, owned by the same family since 2017, now has over 220K on it. While it hasn't been driven off any cliffs or through any lakes, they've not maintained it very well overall - only do what it needs, when it requires it, and change oil... eventually. 2 years ago, after it sat for a year because of water leaks and some other smaller things that all came due at once, they put $3K into it to revive it as the daughter's first car and, to my surprise, it's needed very little since.

Combine that with how many are on Marketplace for <$5K and I gotta ask - have this one under my care just been unusually resilient or could they actually be a pretty solid buy for a cheap, safe, sturdy, AWD SUV? Taking for granted the buyer understands the inherent risks in buying something of this age that is more high-tech than just a base model Chevy truck or something.
 
Think the main thing on those 1st gens are oil ventilation system or PCV system. Transmissions and Turbo's I'm not sure of. They needed to update them for emission compliance so they launched another engine for 07'. I own an 08' which is not a turbo I5 like you ask & I've never owned any other XC90's.
 
My friend has one. He's a Volvo enthusiast and a competent shade tree mechanic. He's put lots of parts and sweat into keeping his running.

Probably not the best choice for a first time new car for a daughter.
 
My friend has one. He's a Volvo enthusiast and a competent shade tree mechanic. He's put lots of parts and sweat into keeping his running.

Probably not the best choice for a first time new car for a daughter.
In this case she's going to college locally, the family has my phone number, and I'm within 10 miles of wherever she's at 90% of the time, so it's not like she'll be hours away at the mercy of the nearest import shop if something happens. Which, like I said, hasn't yet in spite of my pessimism of its reliability after rehabbing it 2 yrs. ago.
 
A 2004 XC-90 is my daughter’s first car. Shown here with 250,000 miles on it. 2.5T. FWD

Turbo, engine and transmission are original.

Solid, safe buy?

Yep.

IMG_3114.jpeg

Something crops up with the one you’re talking about, send me a PM. I’ve probably seen it before.

Have to run to a birthday party. More on the car when I’m back.
 
Last edited:
I had a first generation T6. Transmission was the weak point due to torque on the T6 motor, I got mine replaced under warranty at 76K. I would check engine and tranny mounts, particularly the topside motor mount. Solid driving car, I had IPD swaybars front/rear and a Remus muffer. Wife got hit and it was totaled.
 
A black one sets on flat tires, off Main St. behind a shop.
I offered to fire up the neglected beast with an eye on assessing the car and making an offer.
The man in charge, stood me up.
It's still there.
 
I have two of them, a 2005 with 220k miles (bought at 140k) and a 2006 with about 270k (bought at 220k). Both are 2.5T AWD. They are a good vehicle for new drivers because they are very crash-worthy, weigh 4500 pounds and are slow. Plus they are cheap.

Best to look at Volvo specific forums for all the details but it seems that the T6 and V8 are least reliable and the 3.2 is probably the most. The 2.5T is a good motor, but has a timing belt and also the PCV system needs maintenance from time to time and that is a fairly large job. If the PCV is neglected and/or long oil change intervals with non-synthetic is done, then a lot of carbon builds up in the sump and clogs the oil pickup, giving an intermittent low oil pressure message -- this happened to the previous owner of my 2006 and is why I was able to buy it for $1000.

To get the 3.2, you need to buy 2007 or newer. Any of the motors will burn a lot of gas, a budget of 17MPG is probably realistic for a 2.5T or 3.2. AWD models have a tow rating of 5000 pounds.

Repairs are fairly cheap and the internet has a lot of info on how to do them, I have done a lot of repairs on these cars, they seem much less reliable than our Hondas or Toyota, but not too bad to DIY fix them. It would be cost-prohibitive to pay a mechanic to fix all the problems on them as they get up in miles.

The interiors fall apart some: sagging headliners and the leather on the light colored interiors look unsightly with all the cracks and creases as the usage goes up. The dark grey interior looks much better as the car ages.

If buying used, assume the AWD is broken (it will operate as a normal FWD car and there is no dash lights). There is a splined coupler at the transmission output for the back wheels and this coupler tends to get stripped. When the car is in Park, the driveshaft to rear differential can be turned by hand if the coupler is stripped but will not turn if the coupler is good.
 
I'm going to go out on a limb and say the V8 is going to be the best of the XC's, as long as it's a post-'06 that has the updated engine block.

The Yamaha V8 is incredibly reliable, as is the AW transmission behind it. Service can be a bit of a bear, but far from awful. I previously serviced one that was approaching 200k without issue. I saw far more problems with the T6's and 3.2's. The 2.5t is a solid platform and easy to service, but as other have said it's slow as molasses.
 
I have two of them, a 2005 with 220k miles (bought at 140k) and a 2006 with about 270k (bought at 220k). Both are 2.5T AWD. They are a good vehicle for new drivers because they are very crash-worthy, weigh 4500 pounds and are slow. Plus they are cheap.

Best to look at Volvo specific forums for all the details but it seems that the T6 and V8 are least reliable and the 3.2 is probably the most. The 2.5T is a good motor, but has a timing belt and also the PCV system needs maintenance from time to time and that is a fairly large job. If the PCV is neglected and/or long oil change intervals with non-synthetic is done, then a lot of carbon builds up in the sump and clogs the oil pickup, giving an intermittent low oil pressure message -- this happened to the previous owner of my 2006 and is why I was able to buy it for $1000.

To get the 3.2, you need to buy 2007 or newer. Any of the motors will burn a lot of gas, a budget of 17MPG is probably realistic for a 2.5T or 3.2. AWD models have a tow rating of 5000 pounds.

Repairs are fairly cheap and the internet has a lot of info on how to do them, I have done a lot of repairs on these cars, they seem much less reliable than our Hondas or Toyota, but not too bad to DIY fix them. It would be cost-prohibitive to pay a mechanic to fix all the problems on them as they get up in miles.

The interiors fall apart some: sagging headliners and the leather on the light colored interiors look unsightly with all the cracks and creases as the usage goes up. The dark grey interior looks much better as the car ages.

If buying used, assume the AWD is broken (it will operate as a normal FWD car and there is no dash lights). There is a splined coupler at the transmission output for the back wheels and this coupler tends to get stripped. When the car is in Park, the driveshaft to rear differential can be turned by hand if the coupler is stripped but will not turn if the coupler is good.
Exactly the data I was looking for. I know any vehicle of that age with that level of tech/amenities is bound to be a money pit if you just drop it at a shop anytime something happens - I'm trying to glean if a more hands-on owner could stay in the black on one.
 
I’ve seen folks daily driving T5s with 250k and moving along fine. Weird things do pop up unexpectedly but once I learned “Volvo” I could move pretty quick to repair. Also, most things gave some warning and only one fail ever left the car stuck, and that was the pin inside the shift lever wearing out. I was able to rig it that night after exploring the mechanism to still get my daughter to work the next day. The engine and trans never missed a beat, interior was squeak free - but little things like vacuum valves and vacuum lines would creep up. All of them had different issues pop up with vapor canister and plumbing. Simple enough system to trace lines and replace those.
 
Some thoughts on the XC-90 2.5T.

Solid engine. Good transmission. Good paint. Good rust resistance. Durable, quality interior materials. Good brakes. Decent handling. Standard stability control. Third row seat, car seat anchors, rear AC and lots of cargo room. Best structural integrity and SRS systems make it one of the safest vehicles made. 210 HP makes it not the fastest, but not a big deal.

A very good choice for a young driver. Or a young family.

The P2 chassis has a couple of known weak points. Front control arm bushings wear out quickly, about 60-80,000 miles. Engine mounts last about the same. The front lower torque mount is usually first to go. At high miles, the evap system “J hose” can crack and cause a CEL. Not hard to get to on the FWD, but a real pain on the AWD.

The 2.5T engine is a timing belt and interference engine. 105,000 mile change interval. If you’re doing the second timing belt, you should do the water pump. Wire loom doesn’t last long - replacing it will help keep wiring in good shape. PCV system is a known weak point. Change out all, and I mean all, of the components about every 100,000 miles. Do not use Uro or Proparts Sweden parts on the engine. They are Chinese junk. OEM Volvo for PCV system, only. I’ve seen the Uro hoses fail in as little as 30,000 miles, causing leaks.

If the PCV system is ignored, crankcase pressure build, until it pushes the engine cam seals out, and you get massive oil leaks followed quickly by engine failure from oil starvation. So, do the PCV system. If you’re over 150,000 when you do the timing belt, do the front cam and crank seals while you’re in there, it’s not much more work. Rear cam seals are a bit of work, they’re hidden under the engine mount brackets and a few other parts. They are usually slower to wear out.

I’ve had mixed results with anything other than Volvo spark plugs. OEM plugs are about $60 on line. Easy change.

The 2.5 T should get an A3/B4 euro oil. It’s happy on any XW30 or Xw40. I’ve got UOA on both in this engine. Filters from Volvo are good, but you can get Mahle filters from IPD for about $6/each. I buy them in bulk. Learn to shop on FCP Euro and IPD usa.

The AW-55 transmission is good. Toyota T-IV or JWS-3309 fluid. I’ve used AMSOIL and HPL with good results. The XC-90 has a built in transmission cooler. I added a filter, much like I did on the other P2 cars I own. You can see the V70XC set-up, here, and the XC-90 is the same: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/baldwin-b2-hpg-used-as-a-transmission-filter.384622/

Drain and fill takes about 3.5 quarts. Refill through the dip stick, you will need a long funnel. The drain plug is magnetic. Do not, repeat, DO NOT, try to fill it through a bolt on the top of the transmission, that is the B4 band anchor, and you will kill 3rd gear if you loosen it.

If you have AWD, you have an “angle gear” or front differential. It takes 700ml of 75W90. Don’t fill it until it dribbles out of the fill plug. No drain plug, you have to use a vacuum extractor and a small diameter hose. If it is weeping, IPD sells a kit to reseal it. I outlined my experience in this post: https://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthread.php?29700-Angle-Gear-sealing-and-modification - I added a magnetic drain plug on that one. Later, I installed a Time-sert thread insert so that steel threads would be taking the wear of drain and fills. So easy, and the drain plug picks up a bit.

If you have AWD, you have a “Haldex” system - a pump-powered fluid clutch to engage the rear wheels. That fluid requires changing every 100,000 or so, and a kit from IPD includes a filter. It’s a reliable system, though salt can kill the module over time.

If you need an axle, get a GKN or OEM. GKN are available from various suppliers. Any of the rebuilds, including those from IPD (my favorite Volvo source of parts) are complete junk. I went through 3 axles from IPD (lifetime warranty is great, but having to re-do the labor over and over makes it irrelevant) before I got one that was not horrible. It still wasn’t good, and vibrated under acceleration, and the boot lasted about two years before leaking.

The GKN is still on there 10 years later. I would rather re-boot an OEM than a rebuild. The factory boots will be as much as the aftermarket axle, but you will be happier, I promise.

Sunroof drains on the XC-90 run down through the A pillars, through some rubber elbows, to the ground. The rubber elbows wear out and can cause leaks. If you don’t know when they’ve been done, replace them. Easy job.

When the car gets old, the bulbs in the climate control and dashboard wear out. They’re easy to change and IPD sells a kit for the dash. Climate control bulbs are expensive, and if you remove the climate control for the bulb replacement, disconnect the battery first, or you will cause an SRS fault, which can only be cleared with Volvo software (VIDA). I’m not sure if Autel or other scanners can do it.

Parking brake adjustment is a bit odd. You have to remove the lower counter console trim panel by the drivers right ankle. The adjuster is in there, and it is a ratcheting connector that can be released with a pry tool, or tightened by pushing it together. It’ll make sense when you see it. Stories abound of aftermarket parking brake shoes being less effective. I go Volvo OEM only for those shoes after some bad experiences. You will want new hardware if you replace the shoes. This is a case where Proparts Sweden parts are fine. Springs are springs.

Brakes are ATE. I would flush them every other year. Rear brakes have an odd spring for the single piston caliper. It is not easy to get the caliper spring back in when done. Take a picture before you start and make certain that the spring is correctly placed when you finish up. It goes under the “ears”.

Rear wheel hubs on the FWD wear out quickly. The ABS tone ring is in the hub, so the speed sensor is reading off the hub. A groan or rumble while on the highway from the back is probably those hubs. Buy Volvo parts only in this case - because the hubs from Volvo include a redesigned component, a “splash guard” or plastic shield is now included and the hubs will last a lot longer. Don’t go aftermarket on those hubs.

Feel free to ask questions.

The XC-90 is going back up to Boston today. I have no problem hopping in that car and driving 600 miles in a day, even with 250,000 on the odometer.

IMG_3360.jpeg


It’s a great choice for a young driver.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for that clarification. I've heard the term "loom" used to denote a wiring harness. (and of course I know what you're saying now)

Funny thing about the sheathing-loom....I stumbled upon an electronics supply house while in nearby town.
I was into my first V70 and my looms were crumbling. This shop had loom.....the lowest temperature rated indoor stuff imaginable.
It crumbled away in a month! (true)
Anybody need some?
 
.

. Climate control bulbs are expensive, and if you remove the climate control for the bulb replacement, disconnect the battery first, or you will cause an SRS fault, which can only be cleared with Volvo software (VIDA). I’m not sure if Autel or other scanners can do it.

Fabulous post … I can add 2 cents here. Some of the Volvo-compatible lesser scanners can clear the SRS code. I think I paid $120 for mine. I don’t recall the make but it was on Amazon, does Volvo and Saab, and obd2. Paid for itself.

I also learned that it does matter, on a Volvo, which battery terminal comes off first and gets out on last. One way sets off the SRS code, the other does not.
 
I had a first generation T6. Transmission was the weak point due to torque on the T6 motor, I got mine replaced under warranty at 76K. I would check engine and tranny mounts, particularly the topside motor mount. Solid driving car, I had IPD swaybars front/rear and a Remus muffer. Wife got hit and it was totaled.
This was what I thought. Didn't they have the 4T65E? Tons of failures if you search the web.

I could have picked one up for a song but just don't have the time for a project.
 
We had a 2006 XC90 2.5T AWD. Perfect choice in first gen. The T6 and V8 aren't as reliable, due to transmission choice. But the 3.2L is another great option for first gen, but mostly comes as FWD. I had a 2010 XC70 with 3.2L and AWD, and we sold it trouble free at over 270k miles. Still no oil loss or consumption at that mileage.
 
Last edited:
In my experience with all the Volvo P2 platform cars, they sunroof drains get clogged, or the rubber dries out and allows water to run into the driver's foot well. This is where the CEM unit (the brain for communication of ALL the car's computers) lives. It gets wet and errors and over time builds corrosion and dies. It is expensive and replacements will have the same issues. Get a rebuilt one from Xemodex.com. It has upgraded processor, and cooling, and they epoxy coat the board for longevity and water resistance. The car is full of really poorly made electronics (The era when Ford owned Volvo) and the DIM (dashboard computer), the switches/computer for window and mirror control, the security siren and computer, all tend to fail. Parts are not universal so you options for picking them up at an auto dismantler are slim. They need to be programmed to the car, and this in many cases can ONLY be done by a dealer at the dealer rates. It's not that you can't get the Volvo connector and s/w (VIDA/Dice) but that for programming modules, you need to send the VIN to Volvo corporate (via internet) and have the programming coded to the particular vehicle and then sent to the dealer. The dealer gets billed by Volvo, then passes it on to the owner. One last thing, DON'T lose your keys! Again, only dealers can program keys to Volvo's. It the same deal of sending info to Volvo corporate, and getting a custom program back. Locksmiths cannot do this for Volvo. They are safe cars and satisfying to drive when working properly, but they require a lot of work. The three I have owned (XC90 V8 Sport, XC 70, V70) have been the bain of my existence while we have owned them. But my wife loves them, so there you have it....
 
Back
Top Bottom