First Ever New Car Purchase

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Originally Posted By: addyguy
Being a cash-in-hand buyer will give you a LOT of power - a sales guy desperate to make his quota might swing you one heck of a deal.

not really. dealer I worked at HATED cash deals, the F&I guy couldn't make any money on the deal.
and the sales guy doesn't swing the deal, the manager does.

BEST advice for buying a new car- do all your research BEFORE you go in! educate yourself on what they have in stock and what the price is. edmunds.com has a great tutorial on how to buy a new car.
 
EVERY sale is cash. I use a credit union and they special messenger a check to the dealer the same day.

The whole cash sale thing is baloney at a stealership.

Great on a used car person-to-person, though.
 
My school used to do the bumper stickers too, then they switched to window stickers. When I removed the bumper stickers (on two different vehicles) they both came off very easily with no residue or marks. I simply picked at the corner with a fingernail and slowly peeled away. Can't tell they were ever there. YMMV however...
 
Watch out for the "anti-theft" VIN etched on the windows. It's a slick add-on because it's usually already done, and it'll be presented as something you just have to pay for- an extra couple hundred bucks. You don't have to pay for it, just tell them to go ahead and remove it, haha. If you're REALLY good, maybe you can negotiate a discount for the "blemished" glass!
 
Make sure they don't gouge you on the doc fees. Anything more than ~$55 is a rip.

Also, double check that the Fit is really what you want. I've driven one a lot, and it feels like a tin can on wheels, especially as they age. JMO, but point is, make sure it is really the car you want so you won't have buyer's regret.
 
Originally Posted By: kelpie
I read the transmissions (auto) in them aren't good either.


The AT in a Fit is a pile. Ours has that transmission, and it's not a good one. The car has 33k miles on it now, and it's seen 2 fluid changes already. It shifts well for about 8-10k miles. Then the AT kills the fluid and the shifts get quite harsh. The first change was at 18k miles, and the shift quality was slam-bang by then.

Budget AT fluid changes into your maintenance costs, as it will need them.

Aside from that, it's a typical old-school Honda. Meaning it goes without complaint, and enjoys getting the snot revved out of it. The seats are comfy, the interior looks the same as when we picked it up brand-new, and it still handles pretty well.
 
Originally Posted By: sciphi
Originally Posted By: kelpie
I read the transmissions (auto) in them aren't good either.


The AT in a Fit is a pile. Ours has that transmission, and it's not a good one. The car has 33k miles on it now, and it's seen 2 fluid changes already. It shifts well for about 8-10k miles. Then the AT kills the fluid and the shifts get quite harsh. The first change was at 18k miles, and the shift quality was slam-bang by then.

Budget AT fluid changes into your maintenance costs, as it will need them.

Aside from that, it's a typical old-school Honda. Meaning it goes without complaint, and enjoys getting the snot revved out of it. The seats are comfy, the interior looks the same as when we picked it up brand-new, and it still handles pretty well.


This is something that I had not heard anywhere in my research. Is it just that the AT is extremely hard on fluid and possibly a switch to a synthetic ATF like Amsoil might help?
 
A new car like the Fit has about $500 markup. I wouldn't expect to move much on price, if at all. The only probable room for negotiation is the value of your trade.

Dealers make money if you finance, so this is their preferred method. But either way, its all cash to them, whether you write a check or your bank writes a check,its all the same.
 
Originally Posted By: nfs480


This is something that I had not heard anywhere in my research. Is it just that the AT is extremely hard on fluid and possibly a switch to a synthetic ATF like Amsoil might help?

The Fit's auto just shifts sloppy and harsh, like some Honda automatics. Budget a 3 qt ATF drain and refill every 15k to keep the shift quality up. It'll cost you less than $30.

Originally Posted By: otis24
A new car like the Fit has about $500 markup. I wouldn't expect to move much on price, if at all. The only probable room for negotiation is the value of your trade.

This is becoming the trend with a lot of cars, even with GM. New car purchases are becoming less and less profitable.
 
Originally Posted By: nfs480
I've been saving for quite a few years and will be purchasing the car outright with no financing, as for insurance my parents have offered to pay for my insurance costs until I graduate college in a year and a half, at which time I will take over the payments. At this time my primary concerns are not getting ripped off by the dealer and new car care.

I really appreciate the responses!

Heck if the Honda is running fine drive that beast till your done with school. No payments are awesome but remember how bad student parking lots can be.
 
Originally Posted By: nfs480
Originally Posted By: sciphi
Originally Posted By: kelpie
I read the transmissions (auto) in them aren't good either.


The AT in a Fit is a pile. Ours has that transmission, and it's not a good one. The car has 33k miles on it now, and it's seen 2 fluid changes already. It shifts well for about 8-10k miles. Then the AT kills the fluid and the shifts get quite harsh. The first change was at 18k miles, and the shift quality was slam-bang by then.

Budget AT fluid changes into your maintenance costs, as it will need them.

Aside from that, it's a typical old-school Honda. Meaning it goes without complaint, and enjoys getting the snot revved out of it. The seats are comfy, the interior looks the same as when we picked it up brand-new, and it still handles pretty well.


This is something that I had not heard anywhere in my research. Is it just that the AT is extremely hard on fluid and possibly a switch to a synthetic ATF like Amsoil might help?


It's a high-revving engine with a 5-speed transmission that downshifts at any change in the accelerator pedal position. It's pretty hard on the fluid due to this.

A good synthetic ATF will help. We're running 50% Valvoline Maxlife ATF (it's synthetic, although they don't advertise it heavily) and 50% Z1, and shift quality is the same as 4 months ago when that mix went in. It also hasn't oxidized as quickly as 100% Z1. The colder winter temperatures are certainly helping.

Be aware that air filters, OEM-size tires on the Sport models, wiper blades, and batteries are VERY HARD or IMPOSSIBLE to find outside of a dealer. All that's available at the local parts stores for the car are oil and oil filters, at least around me. For most of the common maintenance items like brake pads we'll have to mail-order them. Fortunately that hasn't been an issue yet.

Necessary modifications if you want a happy wallet and to be heard in an emergency are protective film for the foglights on the Sport models, a 2009 Accord low-tone horn, and screening off the lower grille to prevent rocks from blowing out the $600 A/C condenser that Honda will refuse to warranty WHEN a rock blows it up.

The Fit is a pretty good little car. It's a big maintenance nightmare between the AT, the incredible unavailability of parts, and tires for the Sport version are between $500-700 a set that you'll need after 25-30k miles. The OEM Bridgestones on ours are shot with 25k miles on them. We have a second set of wheels with snow tires on them. Don't ask how much they were, it's too depressing. And, we run synthetic oil in response to the 12-13k mile oil changes the oil life monitor has us doing. The manual says regular oil is fine for that time, FWIW.

The Fit, while a very competent little car, can get mighty expensive to own. Those are the drawbacks to our Fit that we've discovered in ~2 years of having it.

And in Minnesota, I'd recommend annual rust-proofing. This thing is classic Honda, including being very susceptible to "Honda cancer". I didn't do much rust-proofing the first winter we had ours, and there's a good spot of rust where some paint was rubbed off of a lower control arm. This year I Fluid Filmed the daylights out of it, and that seems to have helped.
 
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I drove in my brother's girlfriend's Honda Fit Sport the other day. I walked away being glad I drive a Saturn....
 
Originally Posted By: GMFan
I drove in my brother's girlfriend's Honda Fit Sport the other day. I walked away being glad I drive a Saturn....


Mind elaborating a little bit? What year was it (the older Fits I don't care for as much) because I found the 2011 to be really nice to drive, but maybe I missed something.

Originally Posted By: ARB1977
Originally Posted By: nfs480
I've been saving for quite a few years and will be purchasing the car outright with no financing, as for insurance my parents have offered to pay for my insurance costs until I graduate college in a year and a half, at which time I will take over the payments. At this time my primary concerns are not getting ripped off by the dealer and new car care.

I really appreciate the responses!

Heck if the Honda is running fine drive that beast till your done with school. No payments are awesome but remember how bad student parking lots can be.


Well, it hasn't been running so fine as of late. It's rusting fairly bad and creaks and groans when I drive. My primary motivation for purchasing the new car is that this summer i'm going to be driving cross-country down to Georgia for a summer internship and i'm not sure I trust the '89 to get me there.
 
Originally Posted By: nfs480
Some things i'm worried about are door dings on campus and the removal of our required parking stickers that we need to affix to the bumper of the car to park (any tips for removing those bumper-sticker like things cleanly?)


I tend to park at an end spot and keep it close to a curb. Pay attention to the slope, you don't want to park down-hill from the next spot (where a door could get away from the person opening it and slam into your car).

For stickers: (no kidding) peanut butter after you peel off the sticker. The peanut butter oil is mild to paint but dissolves adhesive residue with a little effort.
 
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Our 2009 is a hoot to drive. That little car is a blast on twisty roads.

It'll also fit 4 full-size adults comfortably, with room left over for some purchases.

For pure highway driving, it'll easily beat 40 mpg. Best we've ever done with it is 46 mpg setting the cruise at 64 mph for 3-4 hours.
 
Fit, why?
how much?
auto or manual?
what options?

I was woefully under impressed by the Fit and its price. I wish that the automakers would stop charging $18k for a $12k car.
 
Originally Posted By: sciphi
Our 2009 is a hoot to drive. That little car is a blast on twisty roads.

It'll also fit 4 full-size adults comfortably, with room left over for some purchases.

For pure highway driving, it'll easily beat 40 mpg. Best we've ever done with it is 46 mpg setting the cruise at 64 mph for 3-4 hours.


I've read some complaints online saying that the seats are unbearably uncomfortable, which is something I didn't experience when I drove my friend's 2010 cross-country last year, what is your opinion on the seat comfort?

Originally Posted By: unDummy
Fit, why?
how much?
auto or manual?
what options?

I was woefully under impressed by the Fit and its price. I wish that the automakers would stop charging $18k for a $12k car.


2011 Honda Fit Sport Auto (currently at $17,928 with the dealership but haven't committed to anything yet). Only option i'm really considering is adding the splash guards to the wheel wells.

I'm looking at the Fit because I drove my friend's 2010 Fit Sport Auto cross-country last year and thought it was nice and fun-to-drive and my family has been very happy with our four Honda's.

I also liked the fact that it's possible to store a large amount of stuff in the car with the rear-seat configurations. We managed to go cross-country with four people in the car along with all of our stuff and it was actually comfortable.
 
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Originally Posted By: sciphi
A good synthetic ATF will help. We're running 50% Valvoline Maxlife ATF (it's synthetic, although they don't advertise it heavily) and 50% Z1, and shift quality is the same as 4 months ago when that mix went in. It also hasn't oxidized as quickly as 100% Z1. The colder winter temperatures are certainly helping.


I have been using the ATF-Z1 in my friend 2009 Fit. At 35k the fluid was brown and the shifts were very harsh, but a 3 qt drain and refill with ATF-Z1 fixed the problem. The car has 45k now and the fluid is still red and the shifts are still acceptable. I plan to continue servicing the transmission every 15k.

Originally Posted By: sciphi
Be aware that air filters, OEM-size tires on the Sport models, wiper blades, and batteries are VERY HARD or IMPOSSIBLE to find outside of a dealer. All that's available at the local parts stores for the car are oil and oil filters, at least around me. For most of the common maintenance items like brake pads we'll have to mail-order them. Fortunately that hasn't been an issue yet.


Finding engine and cabin filters has definitely been an issue. I've been using the Genuine Honda engine and cabin filters so far, and they appear to be of a slightly higher quality than the aftermarket filters I have seen. The engine air filter is quite expensive from the dealer considering its small size; even at a discount, the last one was about $30.

Wiper blades on the hand, I just replaced the inserts for the first time in 2+ years. The cost was $11 from the dealer, and the wipers work great. No issues here. The Fit is also due for front pads soon, and those are about $55 shipped from an eBay Honda dealer, so that's about average as well.

Originally Posted By: sciphi
The Fit is a pretty good little car. It's a big maintenance nightmare between the AT, the incredible unavailability of parts, and tires for the Sport version are between $500-700 a set that you'll need after 25-30k miles. The OEM Bridgestones on ours are shot with 25k miles on them. We have a second set of wheels with snow tires on them. Don't ask how much they were, it's too depressing. And, we run synthetic oil in response to the 12-13k mile oil changes the oil life monitor has us doing. The manual says regular oil is fine for that time, FWIW.

Most cars go through a set of tires every 30-40k. You can now get the Potenza G019 Grid tires in the factory size of 185/55-16 for $96/tire from TireRack. That's a very reasonable price for tires.

Also, change the oil every 5,000 miles. My friend had been following the Maintenance Minder and the computer was calling for an oil change about every 11k. I noticed that towards the end of the interval, there was a lot of rattling and "diesel-like noises" (piston slap?) from the engine until the engine warmed up. An oil change cured the problem immediately. It seems like the 5w-20 breaks down sooner, and should be replaced more frequently for optimal protection.

Originally Posted By: sciphi
The Fit, while a very competent little car, can get mighty expensive to own.


The Fit is hardly expensive to own. Aside from the expensive engine air filter, all of the other parts are priced fairly low.
 
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