Insurance costs may be relatively high on a Civic. Considering who the second owner of those Civics tend to me (see posts above about their condition) this is not surprising.
First Car Suggestions?
- Thread starter CCS
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted By: CROWNVIC4LIFE
I never had a problem taking a car to a independent to have it checked out..Either by the dealer or private owner..All my cars were around 60 minutes or less away..I tell them I am very serious about buying the car and if all checks out I am buying it..For the most it took less then 3.5 hours..Most of the time the salesman [or private owner] comes with me but there were times the dealer let me take the car out on my own..If the dealer or private owner has a problem with that I walk..I have had to take time off from work to do this but is worth it in the long run.
You do not want to take a chance with a used car..Plus if I do not get service records it is definitely off the table.
What shop do you use? I go to very few shops in general.
How can you be serious about a vehicle you haven't looked at?
I never had a problem taking a car to a independent to have it checked out..Either by the dealer or private owner..All my cars were around 60 minutes or less away..I tell them I am very serious about buying the car and if all checks out I am buying it..For the most it took less then 3.5 hours..Most of the time the salesman [or private owner] comes with me but there were times the dealer let me take the car out on my own..If the dealer or private owner has a problem with that I walk..I have had to take time off from work to do this but is worth it in the long run.
You do not want to take a chance with a used car..Plus if I do not get service records it is definitely off the table.
What shop do you use? I go to very few shops in general.
How can you be serious about a vehicle you haven't looked at?
I also like the Honda CRV suggestion. They are among the most reliable cars ever made, and quite practical too.
Originally Posted By: supton
[/quote]
What shop do you use? I go to very few shops in general.
How can you be serious about a vehicle you haven't looked at?
After I look at the car I call one of two independents I know if I really like it..One of them will be there.
If you do not have a independent mechanic I would take it to a dealer you feel comfortable with and pay them [generally around 100 bucks] to put it on the rack and check it out.
If it is a Sunday the private owner or dealer will have to wait till Monday morning till I can check it out..I will give a deposit if I really like it and all service records are there.
[/quote]
What shop do you use? I go to very few shops in general.
How can you be serious about a vehicle you haven't looked at?
After I look at the car I call one of two independents I know if I really like it..One of them will be there.
If you do not have a independent mechanic I would take it to a dealer you feel comfortable with and pay them [generally around 100 bucks] to put it on the rack and check it out.
If it is a Sunday the private owner or dealer will have to wait till Monday morning till I can check it out..I will give a deposit if I really like it and all service records are there.
Originally Posted By: supton
How can you be serious about a vehicle you haven't looked at?
Because you are considering buying it. Serious means that, if the mechanic says everything looks good, you are buying the car on the spot. You are not going to go back home and think about it, you are not going to have to go to the bank to get the money or the down payment, you are going to buy the car.
That's what people don't get when buying a used car from a private party. They treat it like buying a car from the dealer and think that by walking away they will get a better deal. Nope.
If you tell the seller that you are ready to buy the car that day, if everything checks out, the seller will be more willing to lower the price just to get rid of the car.
How can you be serious about a vehicle you haven't looked at?
Because you are considering buying it. Serious means that, if the mechanic says everything looks good, you are buying the car on the spot. You are not going to go back home and think about it, you are not going to have to go to the bank to get the money or the down payment, you are going to buy the car.
That's what people don't get when buying a used car from a private party. They treat it like buying a car from the dealer and think that by walking away they will get a better deal. Nope.
If you tell the seller that you are ready to buy the car that day, if everything checks out, the seller will be more willing to lower the price just to get rid of the car.
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Originally Posted By: supton
How can you be serious about a vehicle you haven't looked at?
Because you are considering buying it. Serious means that, if the mechanic says everything looks good, you are buying the car on the spot. You are not going to go back home and think about it, you are not going to have to go to the bank to get the money or the down payment, you are going to buy the car.
That's what bugs me: if I've never sat in xyz car before, much less driven it, then I can't possibly be serious about it. Sure, I should buy on just paper analysis--but in the end it's pretty hard to be dead-nuts sure about something I've never experienced a drive in.
Quote:
That's what people don't get when buying a used car from a private party. They treat it like buying a car from the dealer and think that by walking away they will get a better deal. Nope.
If you tell the seller that you are ready to buy the car that day, if everything checks out, the seller will be more willing to lower the price just to get rid of the car.
Never occurred to me to use that tactic. Makes sense on new cars I guess, although I'm not gutsy enough to do that on new either.
Originally Posted By: supton
How can you be serious about a vehicle you haven't looked at?
Because you are considering buying it. Serious means that, if the mechanic says everything looks good, you are buying the car on the spot. You are not going to go back home and think about it, you are not going to have to go to the bank to get the money or the down payment, you are going to buy the car.
That's what bugs me: if I've never sat in xyz car before, much less driven it, then I can't possibly be serious about it. Sure, I should buy on just paper analysis--but in the end it's pretty hard to be dead-nuts sure about something I've never experienced a drive in.
Quote:
That's what people don't get when buying a used car from a private party. They treat it like buying a car from the dealer and think that by walking away they will get a better deal. Nope.
If you tell the seller that you are ready to buy the car that day, if everything checks out, the seller will be more willing to lower the price just to get rid of the car.
Never occurred to me to use that tactic. Makes sense on new cars I guess, although I'm not gutsy enough to do that on new either.
Originally Posted By: CCS
This relates to another though I was kicking around.
Would it better to purchase a car like 2004 or 2005 Ford Focus or Chevy Caviler because it's a few years newer compared to a 2001 Camry/Accord/etc ?
YES!
Also take note 2004 was the last year for the cavalier which goes back to 1995. So in the eyes of the used car world it's a tired old look, out of fashion, and there are a million rusty ones out there bringing down the resale value.
Incidentally the last model years cavaliers have the coveted Ecotec engine: though the 2.2 OHV engine that precedes it isn't bad either.
If you read CR's methods a red half-circle is 11% better than an empty one. So a "well above average" car is only 22% more reliable than average. They may find it statistically significant but if a repair is 20% cheaper (which it could be), it's a wash financially and only an inconvenience.
This relates to another though I was kicking around.
Would it better to purchase a car like 2004 or 2005 Ford Focus or Chevy Caviler because it's a few years newer compared to a 2001 Camry/Accord/etc ?
YES!
Also take note 2004 was the last year for the cavalier which goes back to 1995. So in the eyes of the used car world it's a tired old look, out of fashion, and there are a million rusty ones out there bringing down the resale value.
Incidentally the last model years cavaliers have the coveted Ecotec engine: though the 2.2 OHV engine that precedes it isn't bad either.
If you read CR's methods a red half-circle is 11% better than an empty one. So a "well above average" car is only 22% more reliable than average. They may find it statistically significant but if a repair is 20% cheaper (which it could be), it's a wash financially and only an inconvenience.
I'd get something like this:
http://providence.craigslist.org/ctd/3539666597.html
You'll appreciate the covered cargo box over the limiting trunk of a sedan. I've owned sedans all my life and could never seem to get truly happy with any of them. Look at my signature; we have two SUVs and love them both. We also *use* them both, all the time. Strollers, boxes, lawn mowers, bikes, they all go in the back. And in most cases, the 2nd row is still usable for passengers.
A CR-V of that era is dead simple, usually dead reliable, and will be reasonable on gas. You can afford to pay cash for one.
Here's another:
http://providence.craigslist.org/ctd/3535886091.html
And another:
http://providence.craigslist.org/ctd/3530837887.html
I bet $4,000 cash drives any of them away.
http://providence.craigslist.org/ctd/3539666597.html
You'll appreciate the covered cargo box over the limiting trunk of a sedan. I've owned sedans all my life and could never seem to get truly happy with any of them. Look at my signature; we have two SUVs and love them both. We also *use* them both, all the time. Strollers, boxes, lawn mowers, bikes, they all go in the back. And in most cases, the 2nd row is still usable for passengers.
A CR-V of that era is dead simple, usually dead reliable, and will be reasonable on gas. You can afford to pay cash for one.
Here's another:
http://providence.craigslist.org/ctd/3535886091.html
And another:
http://providence.craigslist.org/ctd/3530837887.html
I bet $4,000 cash drives any of them away.
Originally Posted By: CCS
Honestly, I don't know much about cars.(If there's a book/website I should look at to educate myself, I'd be happy to hear about it. ) I'm working with a college student budget, so I'm looking for something about $4,000. I'm not concerned about bells and whistles(boring and/or sort of ugly are fine) but more about safety, readability and repair costs.
A big determining factor I question: How many miles per year will you drive? Lots of road trips (hopefully - do it now when you can!) or commuting?
If so look for something with higher MPG. If not too many miles, it won't matter as much. Best bang for the buck: 2001-2006 Hyundai Elantra GTs or Kia Spectra5s. A few recent threads on them. They'll be cheaper and therefore newer with less miles vs a Civic. Big hangup - timing belt needs done every 60k (or 90k on newer ones if you trust it). They also come with side airbags standard. A Corolla from that era should be chain driving and one less maintenance expense.
I highly recommend learning to drive a manual if you end up with any smaller 4cyl car - better MPG, acceleration, reliability, and less maintenance. Not to mention more fun. It might even turn you into a car guy.
Honestly, I don't know much about cars.(If there's a book/website I should look at to educate myself, I'd be happy to hear about it. ) I'm working with a college student budget, so I'm looking for something about $4,000. I'm not concerned about bells and whistles(boring and/or sort of ugly are fine) but more about safety, readability and repair costs.
A big determining factor I question: How many miles per year will you drive? Lots of road trips (hopefully - do it now when you can!) or commuting?
If so look for something with higher MPG. If not too many miles, it won't matter as much. Best bang for the buck: 2001-2006 Hyundai Elantra GTs or Kia Spectra5s. A few recent threads on them. They'll be cheaper and therefore newer with less miles vs a Civic. Big hangup - timing belt needs done every 60k (or 90k on newer ones if you trust it). They also come with side airbags standard. A Corolla from that era should be chain driving and one less maintenance expense.
I highly recommend learning to drive a manual if you end up with any smaller 4cyl car - better MPG, acceleration, reliability, and less maintenance. Not to mention more fun. It might even turn you into a car guy.
Originally Posted By: supton
That's what bugs me: if I've never sat in xyz car before, much less driven it, then I can't possibly be serious about it. Sure, I should buy on just paper analysis--but in the end it's pretty hard to be dead-nuts sure about something I've never experienced a drive in.
If you want to do test drives just to compare different car models, then good luck dealing with private sellers. That means you are not a serious buyer, you have no idea what you want and you will be wasting everyone’s time. My bet is that many used car dealers will not want to deal with you once they find out you're just there to take the cars out for a ride.
I'm not saying that you gotta buy the car you test drove, but first you have to know what you want. You have a budget, that's a good start. Now figure out what type of car you want, small, midsize, full size? Sedan, wagon, hatch? Manual or automatic? SUV, pickup or car? Sporty (two doors) or family oriented? Premium/Luxusry (BMW, Merc, Volvo, etc.) or or regular (Honda, Chevy, Hyundai, etc).
These are all the things that you can figure out on paper. Then look for suitable candidates with a mindset ready to buy if you like the car and everything else checks out to your satisfaction.
If you take an approach that you want to test drive everything before making a decision, then you will never buy a car like that. That's because even the same year and model cars can feel vastly different depending how they were maintained, what kind of rubber was put on, mileage or what kind of parts were used for brake job.
Test driving brand new cars just to compare different models makes perfect sense because they're all in the same brand new condition, but used cars have so many more variables that the comparison is useless. That's why you have to be ready to buy on the spot when you find the car you like. You could look at 5 different Civics, but only like one of them, but if you wait to test drive more, the one you liked may be sold by the time you figure out that it was the best of the bunch.
In the end it is a balancing act between what is acceptable to you. You can always find a better deal or a car with better maintenance, having said that, the good finds can also slip away if you hesitate.
That's what bugs me: if I've never sat in xyz car before, much less driven it, then I can't possibly be serious about it. Sure, I should buy on just paper analysis--but in the end it's pretty hard to be dead-nuts sure about something I've never experienced a drive in.
If you want to do test drives just to compare different car models, then good luck dealing with private sellers. That means you are not a serious buyer, you have no idea what you want and you will be wasting everyone’s time. My bet is that many used car dealers will not want to deal with you once they find out you're just there to take the cars out for a ride.
I'm not saying that you gotta buy the car you test drove, but first you have to know what you want. You have a budget, that's a good start. Now figure out what type of car you want, small, midsize, full size? Sedan, wagon, hatch? Manual or automatic? SUV, pickup or car? Sporty (two doors) or family oriented? Premium/Luxusry (BMW, Merc, Volvo, etc.) or or regular (Honda, Chevy, Hyundai, etc).
These are all the things that you can figure out on paper. Then look for suitable candidates with a mindset ready to buy if you like the car and everything else checks out to your satisfaction.
If you take an approach that you want to test drive everything before making a decision, then you will never buy a car like that. That's because even the same year and model cars can feel vastly different depending how they were maintained, what kind of rubber was put on, mileage or what kind of parts were used for brake job.
Test driving brand new cars just to compare different models makes perfect sense because they're all in the same brand new condition, but used cars have so many more variables that the comparison is useless. That's why you have to be ready to buy on the spot when you find the car you like. You could look at 5 different Civics, but only like one of them, but if you wait to test drive more, the one you liked may be sold by the time you figure out that it was the best of the bunch.
In the end it is a balancing act between what is acceptable to you. You can always find a better deal or a car with better maintenance, having said that, the good finds can also slip away if you hesitate.
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
I'm not saying that you gotta buy the car you test drove, but first you have to know what you want. You have a budget, that's a good start. Now figure out what type of car you want, small, midsize, full size? Sedan, wagon, hatch? Manual or automatic? SUV, pickup or car? Sporty (two doors) or family oriented? Premium/Luxusry (BMW, Merc, Volvo, etc.) or or regular (Honda, Chevy, Hyundai, etc).
I've narrowed it down a few times. SUV of some sort. [Except for when I hold out for so long that I wind up wanting something else. Change in perceived needs and all.]
Quote:
If you take an approach that you want to test drive everything before making a decision, then you will never buy a car like that. That's because even the same year and model cars can feel vastly different depending how they were maintained, what kind of rubber was put on, mileage or what kind of parts were used for brake job.
That's where I'm stuck. I'm not buying w/o a test drive. I'm not spending $$$$ if I'm going to hate it. All the Toyota's I've driven (so far) have lousy lumbar support, to the point I'd want to replace the seat if I had to deal with it on a daily basis. I had my criteria narrowed down to a 3rd gen 4Runner, to the point I'd buy a good one on the spot. On a test drive I found out that its lousy rear seat wouldn't work for me at all. Had to see it in person to find that out. [Wouldn't take three car seats across the back, plus no three point seatbelt in the center position.]
I'm not saying that you gotta buy the car you test drove, but first you have to know what you want. You have a budget, that's a good start. Now figure out what type of car you want, small, midsize, full size? Sedan, wagon, hatch? Manual or automatic? SUV, pickup or car? Sporty (two doors) or family oriented? Premium/Luxusry (BMW, Merc, Volvo, etc.) or or regular (Honda, Chevy, Hyundai, etc).
I've narrowed it down a few times. SUV of some sort. [Except for when I hold out for so long that I wind up wanting something else. Change in perceived needs and all.]
Quote:
If you take an approach that you want to test drive everything before making a decision, then you will never buy a car like that. That's because even the same year and model cars can feel vastly different depending how they were maintained, what kind of rubber was put on, mileage or what kind of parts were used for brake job.
That's where I'm stuck. I'm not buying w/o a test drive. I'm not spending $$$$ if I'm going to hate it. All the Toyota's I've driven (so far) have lousy lumbar support, to the point I'd want to replace the seat if I had to deal with it on a daily basis. I had my criteria narrowed down to a 3rd gen 4Runner, to the point I'd buy a good one on the spot. On a test drive I found out that its lousy rear seat wouldn't work for me at all. Had to see it in person to find that out. [Wouldn't take three car seats across the back, plus no three point seatbelt in the center position.]
Originally Posted By: surfstar
A big determining factor I question: How many miles per year will you drive? Lots of road trips (hopefully - do it now when you can!) or commuting?
If so look for something with higher MPG. If not too many miles, it won't matter as much. Best bang for the buck: 2001-2006 Hyundai Elantra GTs or Kia Spectra5s.
Commuting. I don't actually like driving very much(and I reallyyy hated learning to drive so I don't know about learning how to drive a manual....), so I don't imagine I'll be road tripping it up and down the east coast.
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
You have a budget, that's a good start. Now figure out what type of car you want, small, midsize, full size? Sedan, wagon, hatch? Manual or automatic? SUV, pickup or car? Sporty (two doors) or family oriented? Premium/Luxusry (BMW, Merc, Volvo, etc.) or or regular (Honda, Chevy, Hyundai, etc).
Because I learned to drive in a midsize sedan , I'm most comfortable in those, but I'm fine with a small/compact car. I don't anticipate lugging around strollers and/or small children for a very very long time. Small, automatic and regular are all fine. Bonus points for sporty, but I can live without that. The Kia and Hyundai both look promising.
A big determining factor I question: How many miles per year will you drive? Lots of road trips (hopefully - do it now when you can!) or commuting?
If so look for something with higher MPG. If not too many miles, it won't matter as much. Best bang for the buck: 2001-2006 Hyundai Elantra GTs or Kia Spectra5s.
Commuting. I don't actually like driving very much(and I reallyyy hated learning to drive so I don't know about learning how to drive a manual....), so I don't imagine I'll be road tripping it up and down the east coast.
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
You have a budget, that's a good start. Now figure out what type of car you want, small, midsize, full size? Sedan, wagon, hatch? Manual or automatic? SUV, pickup or car? Sporty (two doors) or family oriented? Premium/Luxusry (BMW, Merc, Volvo, etc.) or or regular (Honda, Chevy, Hyundai, etc).
Because I learned to drive in a midsize sedan , I'm most comfortable in those, but I'm fine with a small/compact car. I don't anticipate lugging around strollers and/or small children for a very very long time. Small, automatic and regular are all fine. Bonus points for sporty, but I can live without that. The Kia and Hyundai both look promising.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: CCS
I don't actually like driving very much(and I reallyyy hated learning to drive so I don't know about learning how to drive a manual....), so I don't imagine I'll be road tripping it up and down the east coast.
You don't like driving very much because you've never driven a car with a manual.
The time and effort to learn to drive a stick is worth every minute of it.
I don't actually like driving very much(and I reallyyy hated learning to drive so I don't know about learning how to drive a manual....), so I don't imagine I'll be road tripping it up and down the east coast.
You don't like driving very much because you've never driven a car with a manual.
The time and effort to learn to drive a stick is worth every minute of it.
Stickshift is great and all, but if he's got lots of city driving it might be a tall order. They can also be harder to find. Six of one, half dozen of another.
If you can, find a friend with a stickshift and see if they will let you try it out. But I'd read up on the descriptions online first (about feeling the clutch takeup point etc) as some people don't know how to explain things properly, and/or aren't great teachers, and/or don't know how to drive a clutch. Good luck, and I wouldn't blame you if you stuck with an automatic.
I'd look at service records, crawl under the vehicle, etc. But unless if you are willing to do a cram-coarse of internet study into this, you might be well off to find a local person who is car-savvy to help you. There's lots of generic stuff to come up to speed on, and then there is the model specific stuff to keep in mind. In this price range I'd hold back a bit on the cash, for unexpected repairs.
Oh: have you figured out your yearly milage yet? You should have an idea as to maintance costs too. They are usually not too bad, but many seem caught unawares that many timing belt motor vehicles need a timing belt every 40k, 60k, 80k, 100k or 120k. It's routine, and should be expected, and usually doesn't cost that much over the lifespan of the car (depreciation costs more)--but it's usually a few hundred bucks and often you have to do other work too (oil change, ATF change, who knows what).
If you can, find a friend with a stickshift and see if they will let you try it out. But I'd read up on the descriptions online first (about feeling the clutch takeup point etc) as some people don't know how to explain things properly, and/or aren't great teachers, and/or don't know how to drive a clutch. Good luck, and I wouldn't blame you if you stuck with an automatic.
I'd look at service records, crawl under the vehicle, etc. But unless if you are willing to do a cram-coarse of internet study into this, you might be well off to find a local person who is car-savvy to help you. There's lots of generic stuff to come up to speed on, and then there is the model specific stuff to keep in mind. In this price range I'd hold back a bit on the cash, for unexpected repairs.
Oh: have you figured out your yearly milage yet? You should have an idea as to maintance costs too. They are usually not too bad, but many seem caught unawares that many timing belt motor vehicles need a timing belt every 40k, 60k, 80k, 100k or 120k. It's routine, and should be expected, and usually doesn't cost that much over the lifespan of the car (depreciation costs more)--but it's usually a few hundred bucks and often you have to do other work too (oil change, ATF change, who knows what).
I've been driving a stick for 35 years but never knew how to teach it. When I taught my son last summer, I learned a very good idea about teaching stick and you can try this on your own.
If you try to take off using the accelerator it is very difficult not to get the vehicle to buck like a bronco. This is not good for the engine. But if you just ignore the gas pedal, stay in a parking lot away from any traffic, you can get the feel of the clutch by gently and very slowly letting it out to engagement.
If you do it slowly enough the vehicle will roll out pretty smoothly and you will be moving along. Worst case is if you go to fast you simply kill the engine (vs bucking if you are on the gas, or even worse smoking the clutch).
Once you get comfortable with that release, then try shifting between first and second while moving along. That will get you used to coordinating the gas pedal and the clutch more. Yes, you will have jerky engagements but it won't kill it or buck assuming you are going 15+ mph.
Finally after you get used to all that, you can try adding a little gas pedal to it, still very slowly releasing the clutch.
First, though, take a ride as a passenger around town in a car with a clutch, driven by a competent person. If you are a manual transmission person, this will stoke your desires.
If you try to take off using the accelerator it is very difficult not to get the vehicle to buck like a bronco. This is not good for the engine. But if you just ignore the gas pedal, stay in a parking lot away from any traffic, you can get the feel of the clutch by gently and very slowly letting it out to engagement.
If you do it slowly enough the vehicle will roll out pretty smoothly and you will be moving along. Worst case is if you go to fast you simply kill the engine (vs bucking if you are on the gas, or even worse smoking the clutch).
Once you get comfortable with that release, then try shifting between first and second while moving along. That will get you used to coordinating the gas pedal and the clutch more. Yes, you will have jerky engagements but it won't kill it or buck assuming you are going 15+ mph.
Finally after you get used to all that, you can try adding a little gas pedal to it, still very slowly releasing the clutch.
First, though, take a ride as a passenger around town in a car with a clutch, driven by a competent person. If you are a manual transmission person, this will stoke your desires.
Originally Posted By: supton
Stickshift is great and all, but if he's got lots of city driving it might be a tall order. They can also be harder to find. Six of one, half dozen of another.
......
Oh: have you figured out your yearly milage yet? You should have an idea as to maintance costs too.
I live in small city, so yes there would a lot of city driving and stop and go traffic.
I don't really have an idea of yearly mileage. Rhode Island is pretty small, and everything I need is pretty close by, so I would guess about 10,000 miles a year max.
Also, I understand the prices dealers post are pretty inflated but how negotiable is the price? How much money can one expect to take of list price?
I've never paid full price for anything in my life and consider myself a pretty good bargain hunter but I've also never made a purchase this large.
Stickshift is great and all, but if he's got lots of city driving it might be a tall order. They can also be harder to find. Six of one, half dozen of another.
......
Oh: have you figured out your yearly milage yet? You should have an idea as to maintance costs too.
I live in small city, so yes there would a lot of city driving and stop and go traffic.
I don't really have an idea of yearly mileage. Rhode Island is pretty small, and everything I need is pretty close by, so I would guess about 10,000 miles a year max.
Also, I understand the prices dealers post are pretty inflated but how negotiable is the price? How much money can one expect to take of list price?
I've never paid full price for anything in my life and consider myself a pretty good bargain hunter but I've also never made a purchase this large.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: CCS
I live in small city, so yes there would a lot of city driving and stop and go traffic.
I don't really have an idea of yearly mileage. Rhode Island is pretty small, and everything I need is pretty close by, so I would guess about 10,000 miles a year max.
Also, I understand the prices dealers post are pretty inflated but how negotiable is the price? How much money can one expect to take of list price?
I've never paid full price for anything in my life and consider myself a pretty good bargain hunter but I've also never made a purchase this large.
Depends. I think on used cars, especially in this price range on used car lots, it is expected that haggling will occur, so they are priced high. How far can you bring them down? Probably depends upon what they paid for it, and how badly they want it gone. If they got it for a song, they might let it go for a song. All you can really do is know the value of the car ahead of time. And try to pay less.
I live in small city, so yes there would a lot of city driving and stop and go traffic.
I don't really have an idea of yearly mileage. Rhode Island is pretty small, and everything I need is pretty close by, so I would guess about 10,000 miles a year max.
Also, I understand the prices dealers post are pretty inflated but how negotiable is the price? How much money can one expect to take of list price?
I've never paid full price for anything in my life and consider myself a pretty good bargain hunter but I've also never made a purchase this large.
Depends. I think on used cars, especially in this price range on used car lots, it is expected that haggling will occur, so they are priced high. How far can you bring them down? Probably depends upon what they paid for it, and how badly they want it gone. If they got it for a song, they might let it go for a song. All you can really do is know the value of the car ahead of time. And try to pay less.
With $4k I'd pick anything that is reliable and forget about fuel economy (assume you are not driving that much anyways).
Mid 90s Toyota / Honda would be good if not yet rusted, so would 2005+ Domestic. Stay away from European at that budget. Geo Prizm and Pontiac Vibe are the best kept secret in this regard, basically a Toyota with domestic badge and prices.
Mid 90s Toyota / Honda would be good if not yet rusted, so would 2005+ Domestic. Stay away from European at that budget. Geo Prizm and Pontiac Vibe are the best kept secret in this regard, basically a Toyota with domestic badge and prices.
I'd second pandabear's advice. Reliability is much more important than mileage if you don't drive many miles, especially at this price point.
You can get great bargains on domestics, some can still have a LOT of miles on them. For a used buyer depreciation is your friend.
You can get great bargains on domestics, some can still have a LOT of miles on them. For a used buyer depreciation is your friend.
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
I'd second pandabear's advice. Reliability is much more important than mileage if you don't drive many miles, especially at this price point.
You can get great bargains on domestics, some can still have a LOT of miles on them. For a used buyer depreciation is your friend.
Yup, depriciation is definitely your frined, provided you keep an open mind about brands and just look for a well kept example that meets your criteria no matter what badge it has. The only cars I would avoid are the ones with known problems and all brands have those.
I'd second pandabear's advice. Reliability is much more important than mileage if you don't drive many miles, especially at this price point.
You can get great bargains on domestics, some can still have a LOT of miles on them. For a used buyer depreciation is your friend.
Yup, depriciation is definitely your frined, provided you keep an open mind about brands and just look for a well kept example that meets your criteria no matter what badge it has. The only cars I would avoid are the ones with known problems and all brands have those.
- Status
