My 06 Acura TL AC is blowing warm air. I was driving a few miles on the freeway and the air started to get cold, then went back to warm. When I push the AC button I don’t hear the compressor kick on. So I’m thinking the compressor went. What other items can cause this issue? This car already has cost me plenty in repairs, I don’t really want to put anymore money into it.
First 80+ degree day and my AC went out.
- Thread starter Finklejag
- Start date
Usually, when the compressor goes, it locks up and destroys the belt and clutch. It generally makes a lot of noise before that happens.
If it won't even engage, it's an electrical problem (bad sensor, relay, control or wiring) or the system is low on freon.
first step is to check for refrigerant in the system and that you have a drive belt... if there is pressure and a drive belt, these systems are usually controlled by one, two or 3 pressure switches.. in most cycling clutch orfice tube systems they have a low pressure switch to control the evap temp so the evap wont freeze,a hi pressure switch to prevent overpressurization in the high side and some may have a compressor tempo switch... so dont jump to conclusions... they are costly.
Check the A/C relay:
A/C relay location - AcuraZine - Acura Enthusiast Community
3G TL Problems & Fixes - A/C relay location - vehicle is 2007 acura tl type s
acurazine.com
If you're interested in fixing this yourself, get a gauge set for $50 at your nearest Harbor Freight. On older vehicles it's usually a refrigerant leak. You can check static pressure on the low side even if the compressor is not kicking on; that will let you know if it's refrigerant related, or something electrical.
In my experience, it's usually the condenser that needs replaced.
In my experience, it's usually the condenser that needs replaced.
Low on freon is my guess.
Check to see if the lines going to the evaporator are cold. If they are, you have a blend door issue if not, your system could be low of refridgerant preventing the clutch from engaging..
Go to the autoparts store and buy a new relay, my Mom'ss 08 odyssey was doing something similar 3 years ago, it'd kick on sometimes then suddenly get warm, then kick on sometimes then be disengaged, a new $5 or so relay fixed it.
After the relay, the next most probable cause would be the compressor clutch. Hondas manufactured during that era were notorious for the clutch going bad, they even had a warranty extension for the problem (now long expired). There are many YouTubes on this. If you determine that this is the problem and your mechanic tells you that the compressor needs to be replaced, take it to another mechanic.
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I don’t know any shop that would change the clutch. Just the whole compressor.
Like I said, find another shop.
Honda dealers replaced these by the tens of thousands (still are), and they didn't replace the compressors when doing so (except in a small number of cases). Furthermore, Honda's warranty extension only covered the clutch, not the compressor, so if the compressor was bad the customer paid for it's replacement.
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Yep usually when it gets hot with low freon it quits. My old BMW needed a charge every other year. Leak was slow enough where it wasn't worth the trouble to fix.
There are many reasons as to why it's not working. Start with a pressure check, then see if you have 12v going to the coil.
After those 2 you really have to start diagnosing it properly. I have seen things like a bad ambient temp sensor cause the problem, a wire got pulled etc.
After those 2 you really have to start diagnosing it properly. I have seen things like a bad ambient temp sensor cause the problem, a wire got pulled etc.
It's not worth bothering with just changing the clutch. By the time you get the compressor out,labor to change it etc you are better off replacing the whole compressor.
You don't have to remove the compressor to replace the clutch.
Do most cars run the AC compressor when you run defrost?Good to run the AC a few times in the winter to keep the seals from drying out, told to me by an AC tech.
