Finally Got Amsoil 5w40 Into Honda S2000

[buster]

Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Originally Posted By: buster

Look at the specs compared to Mobil 1 0w40. Lower Tbn, and it shears out of grade more so then Mobil 1 0w40. Plus you have to order it via mail.



So? With Mobil 1 0w-40 that's either an invisible elephant in the room ..or a unique and exclusive feature that you can feel good about. Why no love for an Amsoil product that does the same marvelous "end user process" that they can't manage at the blender??

Amsoil is a lower SAPS formula, so they are different.

AFL is most likely an XOM PAO with their own additive package from one of their suppliers. I don't think it's a one of their best oils and nothing about the oil is that impressive.

Considering how easily one can obtain Mobil 1 0w40, which has more builder approvals then any other oil I can think of, and price, I don't see the value in AFL. If AFL was a POE based oil, I could see the justification. AFL is just too similar to other 5w40's on the market.

 

[buster]

Originally Posted By: pcfxer
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Originally Posted By: buster

Look at the specs compared to Mobil 1 0w40. Lower Tbn, and it shears out of grade more so then Mobil 1 0w40. Plus you have to order it via mail.



So? With Mobil 1 0w-40 that's either an invisible elephant in the room ..or a unique and exclusive feature that you can feel good about. Why no love for an Amsoil product that does the same marvelous "end user process" that they can't manage at the blender??

Specs are not everything and that is why one oil is better (read lower wear AND longer OCI) in one engine than another oil-even with better specifications.

Buster, if you want to PROVE Mobil 1 0w-40 is better (again, lower wear AND longer OCI) than the Amsoil 5W-40, then provide funding for our S2000 owner and perhaps he can report the results.

I have no problem "accepting" (understanding) that Mobil 1 0W-40 is better for this particular application or many others. Doesn't bug me at all and doesn't change the fact that Amsoil products have outperformed Mobil products with every single one of my clients.

I just had a client call me and he informed me that his 2000 Honda Civic no longer suffers from the starter solenoid sticking engaged during start-ups since he has moved from Pennzoil 5w30 conventional to Amsoil AFL 0w-30.

And in my experience, every vtec owner that has switched from Mobil to Motul, Amsoil, or redline has seen oil consumption drop to "zero" and they have NEVER looked back.


http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_1_0W-40.asp

AFL 0w-30? What oils are you comparing here?

You are also assuming that you know Amsoil is outperforming Mobil 1. How do you know that?

Many people report lower noise and other things when switching oils, of all brands.

 

[buster]

Quote:
Why no love for an Amsoil product that does the same marvelous "end user process" that they can't manage at the blender?? confused


How do you know Amsoil does the same marvelous things, and if it does, why would I pay more it when I can buy an oil that actually has approvals?

My general view is that if your (Amsoil, Redline, Motul etc.) product isn't substantially better then most of the products I could buy locally, I don't see the point.

 

[Pablo]

Originally Posted By: buster


How do you know Amsoil does the same marvelous things, and if it does, why would I pay more it when I can buy an oil that actually has approvals?

Because a) there is no such thing as Mobil 1 0W-40 around here, and b) when I found it once it was $8.99 quart.

I have nothing against Mobil 1 0W-40 but why would anyone would say another oil shears more than Mobil 1 0W-40 when trying to talk up the 0W-40? Mobil 1 0W-40 shears more than often than any 40 oil posted here. (I am not saying AFL doesn't shear!)

Anyway, yes AFL is a low SAPS oil. It's cheaper than Mobil 1, and it works really well in some engines. Just because you don't like it, don't just start making stuff up about it.

 

[buster]

I'm actually not making stuff up about it.

Fact 1) Mobil 1 0w40 is cheaper then AFL in the NJ/PA area.

Fact 2) It does shear just as much ever since it's HT/HS became 3.7

Fact 3) I'm not talking up Mobil 1 0w40. I'm stating economically it's a better choice.

Fact 4) Never said I didn't like AFL. I just said it was average.

Good oil, just not one of their best.


$20 PC cost + shipping + AFL > Mobil 1 0w40 @ AA/Walmart.

One oil has approvals and high praise among engine builders. The other while very good, does not. Based on product sheet data, there is no reason why anyone should buy AFL over Mobil 1 unless you are brand loyal to Amsoil. Otherwise, you are choosing based on faith.

 

[Gary Allan]

Just get you niggling points correct, buster

 

[buster]

Yeah i figured. lol.

Anyway, sorry to deviate from the topic (AFL). AFL is a good oil and you made a great choice.

 

[SpitfireS]

Originally Posted By: JSRT4
I thought it might provide a bit more protection in hot temps and cold temps

No Offence!

but...

The hart of this post is just another "thick vs thin".
You know, the daily driver I don't really care about because its going to be replaced in a couple of years anyway gets the thin oil that is recommended, so it uses less fuel and will start in any temp in the morning, IOW a car I can depend on, BUT.. the car I've worked so hard for to finally own, or the car I only drive when I want to have some fun, the car I will keep for a long time, my big boy toy, in THAT car I want to use oil that will protect it better than that "thin stuff".
The Gut Feeling is: Thick Oil Will Protect Better.
Based on what?
1970's thinking?
used oil analysis?

C'mon....

 

[JSRT4]

One reason I want to go with Amsoil is that people I have known who ran Amsoil in Hondas have all had very low oil consumption. I've owned 8 Hondas in the past and they consumed pretty good amounts of Mobil 1. So I thought I'd give it a try and see if it makes a noticeable difference. One of my main goals is to have low oil consumption, I think that leads to issues down the road and my hunch is that I may be able to reduce it as much as possible with an oil like Amsoil. I still run Mobil 1 0w-40 in my Dodge SRT4, it does consume a bit of oil on that fluid, but I have nothing to test it against as that is the oil I've run in it all along. The Honda will not get many miles on it, so it will be many months before I can report on UOA or oil consumption patterns.

One note, I was surprised to see that Amsoil 10w30 seems to have a lower volatility rating then their 5w-40, and it even has a lower 4 ball scar number (I know what people think of the 4 ball test with oil, but it seems odd that the thicker oil has a higher scar number).

I love this site for all of the high quality dicussions we get on pretty much any topic, different opinions are always useful IMO. Thanks

 

[Craig in Canada]

Originally Posted By: pcfxer

I just had a client call me and he informed me that his 2000 Honda Civic no longer suffers from the starter solenoid sticking engaged during start-ups since he has moved from Pennzoil 5w30 conventional to Amsoil AFL 0w-30.


While I'm not arguing the quality of Amsoil products, since the starter solenoid isn't involved whatsoever in engine internal lubrication, you might as well say that AFL keeps alligators away.

 

[d00df00d]

 

[webfors]

I'm starting to really love the 40 weight in my forester. Smooth as butter, quiet, doesn't jerk the car around as much at low speeds/rpms, and I've gotten better gas mileage with it!! I know, nobody will believe that last statement, but I'm not here to convince anyone. Those are the facts. Went from Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 to Mobil 1 0w40. We'll have to see how consumption goes, but after 1000 miles, it's 0. I'll know for sure at 4-5k.

Enjoy the 40 weight!

 

[IcebergS2000]

Originally Posted By: SpitfireS
Originally Posted By: JSRT4
I thought it might provide a bit more protection in hot temps and cold temps

No Offence!

but...

The hart of this post is just another "thick vs thin".
You know, the daily driver I don't really care about because its going to be replaced in a couple of years anyway gets the thin oil that is recommended, so it uses less fuel and will start in any temp in the morning, IOW a car I can depend on, BUT.. the car I've worked so hard for to finally own, or the car I only drive when I want to have some fun, the car I will keep for a long time, my big boy toy, in THAT car I want to use oil that will protect it better than that "thin stuff".
The Gut Feeling is: Thick Oil Will Protect Better.
Based on what?
1970's thinking?
used oil analysis?

C'mon....

ACEA A3/B3, I think that this should have been spec'd for the S2000. It is just easier in my opinion to find 40wt oils meeting A3/B3 than it is to find 30wt oils meeting it. The only two oils that I know of, off the top of my head, that you can easily find at the stores are GC and Mobil 1 10w30 HM (in the US.)

 

[JSRT4]

Originally Posted By: SpitfireS
Originally Posted By: JSRT4
I thought it might provide a bit more protection in hot temps and cold temps

No Offence!

but...

The hart of this post is just another "thick vs thin".
You know, the daily driver I don't really care about because its going to be replaced in a couple of years anyway gets the thin oil that is recommended, so it uses less fuel and will start in any temp in the morning, IOW a car I can depend on, BUT.. the car I've worked so hard for to finally own, or the car I only drive when I want to have some fun, the car I will keep for a long time, my big boy toy, in THAT car I want to use oil that will protect it better than that "thin stuff".
The Gut Feeling is: Thick Oil Will Protect Better.
Based on what?
1970's thinking?
used oil analysis?

C'mon....

no not really, we are well past that decision, it's no longer a thick vs. thin argument as I'm not asking anyone's opinion. I've gone ahead and started using it at this point. I already made the decision to go with Amsoil since it doesn't cost much to run on a car that doesn't see many miles. I've never run it on my daily driver work vehicles because it gets too expensive and I don't believe long OCI's. I'm betting the car works well on the 5w-40 visc. because I'm looking to keep oil consumption to a minimum. I think the 5w-40 will provide lower oil consumption. 5W-40 also has better flow in colder temps, I live in snow country and I plan on running it throughout the winter season when possible, better protection relates to a number of things. Honda chose to recommend two oil viscosities on this car, so I chose the one I like best as a starting point. used oil analysis will come at some point in the future. Finally, the point of this post is to state that the car runs well on 5w-40, no sluggishness or apparent loss of power like some people seem to think happens, and I'd go out on a limb to actually state that the car feels stronger with this visc., don't ask me to explain it. The engine is also much quieter at idle with this visc. over 10w30, I like it. I was too young to know anything about cars in the seventies, so my thinking can't relate to that period of time, sorry but I'm just not old enough.
Lastly, I have no interest in:

 

[webfors]

There's no doubt a 40 weight syn will smooth the engine out. I'm not interested in thick vs thin, as I think it's a useless argument. On this forum we have read of cars run on everything from 0w10 to 15w50. I believe viscosity is simply a preference choice with regards to how the car 'feels', to address consumption or suitability for extreme climates.

 

[joel95ex]

Originally Posted By: webfors
There's no doubt a 40 weight syn will smooth the engine out. I'm not interested in thick vs thin, as I think it's a useless argument. On this forum we have read of cars run on everything from 0w10 to 15w50. I believe viscosity is simply a preference choice with regards to how the car 'feels', to address consumption or suitability for extreme climates.


+1 also, since this involves a honda, i have to say that I would follow their recommendations on oil ---after all, i have over 342K on 5 and conventional 10w30 and 70psi @2500rpm so it is still strong.---no consumption but the rear main area is ugly. I thought the newer hondas called for 5-20?

 

[pcfxer]

Originally Posted By: Craig in Canada
Originally Posted By: pcfxer

I just had a client call me and he informed me that his 2000 Honda Civic no longer suffers from the starter solenoid sticking engaged during start-ups since he has moved from Pennzoil 5w30 conventional to Amsoil AFL 0w-30.


While I'm not arguing the quality of Amsoil products, since the starter solenoid isn't involved whatsoever in engine internal lubrication, you might as well say that AFL keeps alligators away.


I fully agree. I suspect that the brain dead mechanics weren't filling the Honda with the proper amount of oil in the first place for thousands of miles (I drained less than 2L YIKES!), but I laughed and said that he is now H1N1 proof because of Amsoil.

That said, it is true, no more grinding

.

Not buying an oil because of certification is akin to not buying a speaker without THX. I mean, Totem Acoustic, Linkwitz labs, Mission are all GARBAGE for home theater use if they don't have THX right? How can you TRUST that these speakers will do the job right?

The answer is simple, pay for a quality speaker and not for a speaker that simply has better "specs and certifcations".

 

[buster]

um, yeah but certification does mean a bit more then THX. I find the analogy weak, although I agree with what you are saying to an "extent".

The certification process proves your product has passed industry sufficient standard testing.

There are quality issues among many smaller blenders (NOT Amsoil) and many of the oils don't meet the specs claimed and are also out of spec. for very basic API SM tests.

There is a group that is going to be exposing a lot of these poorly formulated branded oils soon to help consumers make better choices.

People have this assumption that buying from a small company means you get better quality. It's just not that case.

 

[robertcope]

Originally Posted By: buster
The certification process proves your product has passed industry sufficient standard testing.


How often do they have to re-submit their products for testing? Passing the test once doesn't really mean that the quality remains the same after that. Just a thought and a serious question... certainly not accusing anyone of doing that.

robert

 

[buster]

https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Synthetics/Mobil_1_Industry_Specifications.aspx

Good question. Well, it appears that M1 was caught by Ashland not passing the seq iva test. That is a big no no. If the API catches on, they will work with the company to ensure the steps are taken to make sure the product passes the tests.