FHS SmokeLess Oil

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Originally Posted By: landtoy80

In my search to make my smoking 94 Land Cruiser with 361,000 mi on it pass Colorado Front Range emissions,


So, instead of fixing the engine in your SUV, and stop the polluting, you are looking for a solution in a bottle?

Do you even know why your engine is burning oil?

Maybe its something as simple as the PCV valve is clogged, and needs to be replaced? It could be worn out valve guide seals and valve guides. It could also be worn out piston rings, or scored piston walls.

Why not at least try to find the cause of the failure in your truck, before you go trying to circumvent the emissions regulations who's sole purpose is to get people like you to fix vehicles like yours that are not running properly.

If it turns out to be a big costly issue to resolve, then look for a loophole, or emissions test cheat to get you through.

BC.
 
FHS makes some great oils for the karting world, I've read about this stuff some and was curious to see how it works also. I just can't see a "miracle" in a bottle correcting a worn out engine with 300k+ miles...
 
Originally Posted By: Michael_P
Sounds like a solution for smoking cars where they are illegal such as California.



I don't think smoking cars are illegal in California, as long as they don't leave a huge cloud of smoke that you can't see through. The old used car trick here was to use Mobil 1 to stop the smoke. I don't think they use the new Mobil 1 formula to stop smoke.

P.S. A friend of mine did smog inspections here in California in the 80's. He said that a car that smoked from burned oil sometimes burned cleaner than a car that didn't smoke. I think the main problem was HC, CO, and NO pollution.
 
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For smoke to be noticeable you have to be burning a lot of oil.
Originally Posted By: Loobed
Originally Posted By: Michael_P

The old used car trick here was to use Mobil 1 to stop the smoke. I don't think they use the new Mobil 1 formula to stop smoke.

Back in the early 80's I tried Mobil 1 15W-50 to see if it reduced the noticeable blue smoke on overrun in my twin-cam Europa vs the 20w50 conventional I normally ran. It didn't, although the oil consumption increased from 400 miles/litre to about 250miles/L.

BTW, the high oil consumption lead to frequent plug fouling. The solution was a set of platinium plugs; solved the plug fouling issue but not the blue haze on overrun in my rear view mirror.
 
"If" the oil can get me to pass the test, then whats wrong with it?

If the motor still smokes but not visible the smog test will pick it up.

I am not going to spend $2000+ dollars to fix a $1000- vehicle but the SUV is my only vehicle. I need it to work long enough till I can afford a Prius so that I can drive more and more miles (due to the cost saving) and pollute the same as driving less with the suv.

>>
There is a loophole I could use by spending over the set $$$ amount but I would rather pass it first then go for the loophole.

The smoke is only on startup so it may not even be an issue as when the motor is hot, there may or may not be visible smoke.

It says it reduces emissions and there is a money back guaranty.
 
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I've been driving a Saturn for a year now (6,500 miles), that smokes enough to leave a cloud for 2 lanes behind me every time I start from a stop. I've done an MMO soak, run 20% MMO for 2,000 miles, put in a oil/water seperator in the PCV line (this helped alot), and tried a couple different types of stop smoke. Nothing worked. After a year, my wife just happened to get pulled over for excessive smoking the day after I saw this post. What are the chances.

I'm not really up to putting in new pistons, and my car has a plastic valve cover that can be a pain after it's taken off because they warp, so I just ordered a case of ENTEK oil. I figure I have nothing to lose with the money back guarantee.

My car burns a quart per 150 miles of driving, so if this stuff works my car will be a good example of it.

Thanks for posting the links. I never had any idea there was smokeless oil. I'll keep you posted with the results.

If I could figure out how to post pics, I will.
 
Sometimes blue smoke is cause by oil draining or migrating down bad valve stem seals and dripping or getting sucked in the CC.
 
Originally Posted By: landtoy80
"If" the oil can get me to pass the test, then whats wrong with it?

If the motor still smokes but not visible the smog test will pick it up.

I am not going to spend $2000+ dollars to fix a $1000- vehicle but the SUV is my only vehicle. I need it to work long enough till I can afford a Prius so that I can drive more and more miles (due to the cost saving) and pollute the same as driving less with the suv.

>>
There is a loophole I could use by spending over the set $$$ amount but I would rather pass it first then go for the loophole.

The smoke is only on startup so it may not even be an issue as when the motor is hot, there may or may not be visible smoke.

It says it reduces emissions and there is a money back guaranty.





Land Cruiser is good engine/SUV. But what kind of oil do you have in there now?

Also, how is the maintenance? Has the car EVER been overheated?
Ever had the VC off?
Ever had ANYTHING done to the engine?
Or is it untouched and unopened after the 361,000 miles? Some are................
Religious oil changes? When? And with what? And GRADE of oil?
I would say "Try something thicker" or "try somethign else" but we dont yet know anything
21.gif


As to the oil you asked about.. try other things first.
 
I had an 86 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme(3.8 V6) that burned oil. It turned out that the oil drain/return holes in the heads were plugged up on the rear of each head. the oil would pool in the back of the heads and leak into the rear cylinders through the valve guides overnight. Cleaning out the holes solved the problem.
 
^^^THIS^^^ is a very common problem on really old cars or short hoppers who don't get hot enough/change oil enough.

I had a very high mileage Cavalier with the old 2.2 and it did this same thing. As soon as we de-gunked it it cleared up and quit smoking on start up.
 
I got the Land Cruiser about 8 years ago with 208,000 miles on it. I have been using Rotella T 5w40. Change at about 9000 mi. Have had the oil sent in and checked a couple times and other than a little gas in the oil, the oil was good and could of left it in longer.
I have not had the motor worked on and no overheating. Only thing I somehow messed up the timing and it was way off. I was using lots of oil. I put a catch can on it and it would fill up with sludge real fast. There would be oil in catch can after less than 20 miles.
It ran this way for months. After fixing the timimg, my oil consumption went back to one qt for 3000 mi. Now its 1qt for 2000 mi.
I have tried Lucas, Restore and running Restore and Mobil 1 15w50 and get the same start up smoke.
I have had VC off and nothing looked bad.

I would post a pic of catch can sludge but for some reason I cant post a pic. http://s962.photobucket.com/albums/ae105/landtoy80/?action=view&current=DSC00380.jpg

This is what it looked like after several days of setting. It looked the same after a year of setting.
 
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No loss of coolant. I think it was exhaust getting into the crankcase as the sludge was coming out the PCV into the catch can.
Now I only get a little oil and water in the catch can after fixing the timing.
 
I've gone a little over 200 miles now on the ENTEK smokeless oil and I've only burned about 1/2 quart. I was burning 1 quart per 150 miles with Shell 15w40.

My car smoked like crazy all the time. After a couple miles of downhill driving I used to smoke up 2 lines for 1/4 mile or so.

I expected to see a clear cloud with the ENTEK oil, but there is nothing. I let my old oil drain until it wasn't dripping anymore and changed my filter. I thought a saw a little puff of smoke the first time I drove, but ever since then I've seen no smoke. Not even a clear cloud.

So far I'm really happy with the ENTEK oil. My wife is no longer embarrased to drive the car. If I could figure out how to post a pic, I have one with the car idling with a big cloud behind it.

I don't recall anything on their website claiming their oil will help you to pass smog inspections, but if there's no petroleum or carbon in it then I don't see how you could fail unless your running rich.
 
I am not too worried failing due to emissions but you cant even pass the test if the inspector sees too much smoke. Glad it is working for you.
I will be ordering some soon.

Does the oil look and smell like normal motor oil?
Any idea what the viscosity is?

Wonder what the oil life is on it? If it works for me I might send in an oil sample.
 
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They told me it's a 30 weight. Maybe that's why I'm burning so much less, because it's thick.

They said I could go 10,000 miles on the oil if it's all freeway, or 3,000 miles the way I drive (many 2 to 3 mile drives.

With my car (a heavy smoker that was pretty raunchy to breath) the ENTEK oil smells kind of like something electrical burning up. It's so much better than it was though that I can drive with my car sucking in air from outside now, where I used to have to keep it on circulate. It definately has an odor, but it's way better than conventional oil.

The oil comes clear, so ideally you will know exactly how much to add with your oil change. After only about 20 miles it was dirty enough in my car to have no problem seeing where it was on the dipstick. At 200 miles it is now honey colored.

I would be interested to see an oil sample, I just can't afford one.

Also, after I ordered a case of 12, they called me the next day to tell me they only had cases of 20 and wouldn't have cases of 12 for months. I told them that I didn't have enough money and unfortunately I would have to cancel the order. Then she said she could probably pull bottles from open cases and my order was sent that day. I'm not sure if they were trying to pull a fast one on me, but if you only want a case of 12, don't let them talk you into a case of 20.
 
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