FE7317 Flashlight Check

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May 31, 2024
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In the interest of those that may still have these on the shelf, this was purchased last fall before the leak revelations.
It ran it for 5223 miles, with Mobile 1 Hybrid 0W-20, in a 2024 CRV Hybrid.
It has a date of April 4 2023, and was well made. - Had I known it was one of the "Good" ones, it would have run for another OCI.
All of the current new ones at our WM, have the Champ style inlet holes, and a 2025 date.
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It is difficult to photograph on a flashlight, but there was no light leakage.
This is sitting on a very bright work light, aimed directly up the center.
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For reference purposes, topic application 7317, one of if not the first FE filter application Whip City Wrencher flashlight tested, his made 2/20/2023, failed. As I use same application size, I retested an unused FE made 6/21/24, failed. Another FE7317 made 7/15/24 posted also failed.

Congrats on finding an anecdote with a smooth seal area side that passed. That said, unless one has xray vision not sure how one could be confident of seal area in a current purchase. But yeah, based on pics, topic is how bypass seal area design should be.

Thanks for c&p.
 
For reference purposes, topic application 7317, one of if not the first FE filter application Whip City Wrencher flashlight tested, his made 2/20/2023, failed. As I use same application size, I retested an unused FE made 6/21/24, failed. Another FE7317 made 7/15/24 posted also failed.

Congrats on finding an anecdote with a smooth seal area side that passed. That said, unless one has xray vision not sure how one could be confident of seal area in a current purchase. But yeah, based on pics, topic is how bypass seal area design should be.

Thanks for c&p.
After seeing this post I reinstalled the bypass, and checked it again with a flashlight.
I can now see light after removing, and reinstalling it. I also see distortion in the metal as shown in the video at 9:15.
It is a tight fit, and the metal is quite thin. It's possible some distorted at the factory during assembly, but this one showed no light originally.
 
After seeing this post I reinstalled the bypass, and checked it again with a flashlight.
I can now see light after removing, and reinstalling it. I also see distortion in the metal as shown in the video at 9:15.
It is a tight fit, and the metal is quite thin. It's possible some distorted at the factory during assembly, but this one showed no light originally.
Appreciate the follow up. Adding, as I wanted to eliminate that WCW flashlight testing variable, I too left the unused FE7317 bypass piece untouched/in place for the flashlight test c&p I posted here. And still had same result as WCW. Even went so far as to later apply some minimal pressure to leaf spring, no change. Later @Glenda W. took it a couple steps further and just cut a small hole in FE7317 dome, leaving piece in place and then adding oil to seal area to show leakage. At this point, it's been pretty thoroughly documented here.

As noted, lacking x-ray vision or just not being a personal consideration/concern, not sure how one confident in an FE purchase now.

But, appears you got one that passed, sealed as it should.
 
Appreciate the follow up. Adding, as I wanted to eliminate that WCW flashlight testing variable, I too left the unused FE7317 bypass piece untouched/in place for the flashlight test c&p I posted here. And still had same result as WCW. Even went so far as to later apply some minimal pressure to leaf spring, no change. Later @Glenda W. took it a couple steps further and just cut a small hole in FE7317 dome, leaving piece in place and then adding oil to seal area to show leakage. At this point, it's been pretty thoroughly documented here.

As noted, lacking x-ray vision or just not being a personal consideration/concern, not sure how one confident in an FE purchase now.

But, appears you got one that passed, sealed as it should.
As another afterthought - I wondered if it were installed pushing on only the center lip, would make any difference. So I used a socket, and gave it a light tap with a soft faced hammer to seat it.
Then I could see light almost all 360 degrees around.
There appears to be at least three different versions of these springs. The poorly stamped version with the multiple ripples is the worst.

I understand this filter is a data point, and nothing more.
 
I have one in service that is at 14k plus miles, will be removed at 15k, very much have been wondering if I got an older "good one" or a "leaker" on there. Filters already purchased on deck for that vehicle are CQP regardless of the outcome.
 
But, appears you got one that passed, sealed as it should.
One more thought - yours, Glenda's, and WCW were all new filters. Mine was used, and still had some oil in the crevices.
Is it possible the light reflects between the shiny metal parts, and reveals any openings better without the oil film in between?
Like you stated earlier, it's all anecdotal.
 
One more thought - yours, Glenda's, and WCW were all new filters. Mine was used, and still had some oil in the crevices.
Is it possible the light reflects between the shiny metal parts, and reveals any openings better without the oil film in between?
Like you stated earlier, it's all anecdotal.
I believe used oil could affect the light. When I and others did used filter flashlight tests we used brake clean to remove old oil without disturbing the leaf spring.
 
I believe used oil could affect the light. When I and others did used filter flashlight tests we used brake clean to remove old oil without disturbing the leaf spring.
Possibly my fail.
I know light has properties that would have to be part of the equation, if this were actually a scientific test.
BUT .... at least we can see that a better looking spring / valve was *possibly* used back then.
Again my thought was for anyone that has old stock - to see the inside.
 
You talking about the black nylon bypass valve? "Bung hole plug" ... 😄
Naw, the darker area. I could not tell if it was "rubber coated" or a odd lighting artifact. If it is part of the stamping as a whole, I am deceived by the black color vs the shelf just below it that appears the usual silvery steel color.

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Seems to me, almost by default, that a leaf spring type relief valve will leak since it's just metal on metal for the seal, and we are talking about sheet metal here.
 
Naw, the darker area. I could not tell if it was "rubber coated" or a odd lighting artifact. If it is part of the stamping as a whole, I am deceived by the black color vs the shelf just below it that appears the usual silvery steel color.

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Yes, it looks strange but it' looks like the leaf spring metal is reflecting a black object. Maybe @Mechanician can take some other shots at a different angle.
 
^^^ It almost looks like a coating. Need a couple more photos.
 
One more thought - yours, Glenda's, and WCW were all new filters. Mine was used, and still had some oil in the crevices.
Is it possible the light reflects between the shiny metal parts, and reveals any openings better without the oil film.....
Certainly possible and can't be dismissed as a variable in the flashlight test result.

As for anecdotal, that's true. But 'for me' I've seen enough of them posted here to conclude there's an issue with the Champ Labs seal area, particularly the fit and finish. At this point, I don't believe it's taking a leap to state that. Also, having seen WCW result I can't conclude that older necessarily means better. And I wouldn't know how one could tell for sure without cutting open. No doubt though the topic bypass seal area one of if not the best I've seen posted. So perhaps it did seal as it should.
 
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