quote:
Originally posted by KW:
If I were to buy a new car with a factory fill of M1, I would drive it home and drain it!. Then refill with Wal-Mart oil or something and drive it for at least 2 to 3K to seat the rings before putting the M1 back in. Did you ever notice that all these cars use oil? They have to be run in before the good stuff goes in.
Disclaimer:
No, I will not offer proof of this statement other than my brother builds one-off motors for a living and he won't do it.
Chevy Corvette's come factory-fill with Mobil 1. VW TDI and now PD comes factory fill with a synthetic like Castrol SLX LongLife II 0W-30. Porsche, MB, BMW use Mobil 1 0W-40.
Motors are a lot different than +20 years ago. Different finish on cylinders, different rings, etc. At one time "break in" was a long and arduous process: slow speeds and complicated procedures for the first 5,000 miles, careful with loads, etc, give me a break.
Back then, motors were assembled dry and shipped to the car assembly plant to mate to the frame. This was usually the first time they were started. I shudder to even think of it.
HD diesel motors at rebuild shops like Cummins also use dyno stands to run-in the motor, usually at max load. I know that Cummins recommends max load or the rings won't seat properly and you'll use lot of oil and have short motor life: do NOT baby it.
Most motors now are run-in on dyno's at the engine assembly plant, primarily for QC purposes and also for emissions. A "green" motor usually burns a lot of oil until the rings seat, and this would quickly destroy O2 sensors and catalytic converters. You would never meet OBD2 emissions and certainly not CA emissions if the thing had visible oil consumption.
If you break-in the motor with regular 10W-30 on an engine dyno stand for an hour or so, it should be good to go: say 30 minutes at 2,500 RPM and moderate load. Change the oil and filter. Then 30 minutes at 3,500 RPM and heavy load. Change the oil and filter again.
If you bench build but don't run in the motor, I don't see how ANY synthetic will allow the rings to seat. Here is what GMPP (General Motors Performance Parts) recommends for their crate motors without dyno break-in:
1. Fill with regular 10W-30 and prime oil system.
2. Start motor and run at 2,500 RPM and no-load for 30 minutes. Change oil and filter.
3. Drive at varying speeds/loads for 30 miles.
4. Run 6 medium-throttle runs to 5,000 RPM, letting off in gear to coast down to 20 MPH after each pass.
5. Run 2 hard-throttle runs to 5,000 RPM, letting off in gear to coast down to 20 MPH after each pass.
6. Change oil and filter to 10W-40 non synthetic.
7. Drive normally for next 500 miles under varying loads and speeds, no constant or extended speeds, no heavy loads, not over 5,000 RPM.
8. Change oil and filter, using synthetic if you wish. Drive as you normally would.
Actually, I know a guy in St. George Utah who bought new a 2001 Corvette and he rods the bejeezus out of it. Oil consumption 1 qt every 4,600 miles using Mobil 1 10W-30.