Factoring for antiseize w/o torque wrench on plugs

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My last spark plug question (I hope) before I order them.

I will be installing NGK Iridium IX on my Civic. But before I order, I want to how to tighten them properly without a torque wrench.

Since my manual says to turn 2/3 after coming into contact with cylinder head (if no torque wrench is being used), and I want to use antiseize, I'm wondering how to accomodate for the reduced torque. I'm thinking that I can just take 80% of 2/3 (0.67), and then use that as the angle that I turn the plugs. 80% of 0.67 would be something like 54% of a turn, or just over one half.

Is this the best way to go about this?

FWIW, the manual says to use 13 ft/lbs if using a torque wrench.
 
Originally Posted by mclasser
NGK plugs don't require antiseize.


That...

or it wont matter if you install them based on angle (2/3T after contact) since you are not measuring torque. 2/3 of a turn is 2/3 of a turn, with or without anti-sieze.
 
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Originally Posted by silveravant
I would think 2/3's of a turn after hand tighten wet or dry would be exactly the same.


That's because it is... no trickery here.
 
OK that was something I had not realized.

Originally Posted by bmwpowere36m3

or it wont matter if you install them based on angle (2/3T after contact) since you are not measuring torque. 2/3 of a turn is 2/3 of a turn, with or without anti-sieze.
 
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Originally Posted by Sayjac
Good plug choice. With a small dab of anti-sieze or without, my advice for installing, get THIS. Good investment and useful for jobs beyond plugs.


That torque wrench is about the best $10 you can spend.
 
Torque wrench for a spark plug? I grew up in a different time when every mechanic knew by feel how much torque they were applying. For instance if you had a 1 foot long ratchet how hard (lbs) would you need to push the handle to get 10/ft pounds of torque onto the fastener?

Snug down a plug and tighten it down. It isnt claming anything just sealing. A cheap torque wrench that is not calibrated properly is a good way to strip the plug threads ...especially at very low torque settings.
 
2/3 after hand-tighten seems good, or whatever it says on the box.

NGK does not require anti-seize on any of their spark plugs, so don't use it. They will come out clean when you replace them again.

You can get a torque wrench at Harbor Fright for $10
 
I tighten by feel on spark plugs, i use a small dabof anti-seize on every plug including ngk. I always change aluminum heads cold. I just don't trust a $10 HF torque wrench for aluminum heads ( only lugnuts). With the length of the wrench by the time you figure out its too much, its too much and the threads are stripped.
 
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Kawiguy, I'm with you and don't use a torque wrench on spark plugs. One thing to consider about the good ol' days is that cylinder heads were cast iron and today's aluminum threads are a lot easier to strip. Some guys, through no fault of their own, just don't have an intuitive sense or judgement for when something is properly tightened so I think a good torque wrench has its place on spark plugs. A good torque wrench, not a Harbor Freight click type.
 
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Your spark plugs have crush gaskets. You'll feel them give as you tighten. Stop when they stop you. I recommend a ratchet handle no longer than 6 inches-- if you have to use a longer one, grip it with the "web" between thumb and pointer finger on the ratchet mechanism so you decrease your leverage. Anti-sieze will not affect anything except your running torque, which should be next to nothing anyway. I would recommend since you sound new to this that you skip the anti-sieze or use the smallest amount.
 
Originally Posted by eljefino
Your spark plugs have crush gaskets. You'll feel them give as you tighten. Stop when they stop you..


This, 100%............ You WILL feel it
 
I just did spark plugs on a 3800 Buick. I put anti-seize and tightened the plugs gently until I can't turn the wrench with just fraction of my arm strength. You'll get a feel for it.
 
I had the opportunity to do some R&D with NGK helping them get data for their spark plugs used in natural gas fired engine. NGK recommended plugs be installed clean and dry. According to the engineer it was to help the plug to do its job at dissipating heat.
 
I use a LITTLE anti-sieze on NGK (or any other) plugs, even though it sez it is not needed.
I also spray a WD-40 down the plug hole to clean the threads.

If you are changing the plugs on your 1998 Civic, I would return the Iridiums and get the copper plugs.
Pretty sure the OE plug was the V-Power. It will say on the under hood sticker.
The $$ saved will pay for that HF torque wrench and then some.

If you do it my way, reduce the torque by 10%, perhaps a pound or 2.
Don't pull past the click.

Installing plugs by hand is fine; I like the feel of a torque wrench in my hand.
I have 5 or so...

Anyways, that's my 2 cents.
 
Based on these discussions, I've learned I use about 100x too much anti-seize.

Never used a torque wrench.

Need to use this tool in my Toyotas: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014ZVSV...&ie=UTF8&qid=1546917738&sr=1

Don't know they stick out on your Honda or if they are recessed.

Be careful you don't cross thread the plugs. Spark plugs are very fine thread so it's easy to cross thread them. They should go in with ease. It takes a few more turns to get them in and out than you'd think due to the fine thread.

And yes, 2/3 of a turn is 2/3 of a turn.
 
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