I am wanting to be proactive in replacing my Cooler Lines on my F150 since I heard they can start breaking. What kit or lines should I use that are not prone to breaking?
F150 11-14 Cooler Line Replacement
- Thread starter oilstudent24
- Start date
You can just say w/ OEM and replace every 10 years or something like that.
While it is pretty bad if they do break, it really isn't that common. I've had an F150 since 2011 (a 2009 and 2016 with the 6r80 transmission) and active in a number of truck forums and have never heard of it happening until the FTM video showed up. This is literally the only post about this on the F150 forums and it isn't a failure on someone's truck, it's a reference to the same video. FTM makes money on his YouTube channel and that's the only place I can find any reference to these failures. Replace them if you feel it's necessary, but its not an epidemic of failures.
The only thread about this:
https://www.f150forum.com/f38/yet-another-faulty-part-will-kill-your-truck-520892/
The only thread about this:
https://www.f150forum.com/f38/yet-another-faulty-part-will-kill-your-truck-520892/
I did see that one also. I thought there were several threads that popped up about it. I just assumed those years of trucks are starting to get to that age where some of those connectors break. That’s good that it’s not that common.
Use the Pegasus racing kit or build your own version to replace the quick connect coming off of the overflow tank. I don’t know of any work around for the T connector though.
I can’t say as I’ve personally seen the trans cooler lines be a very common issue. Engine coolant hoses definitely and to a lesser extent coolant fittings on the turbos for 3.5’s
I can’t say as I’ve personally seen the trans cooler lines be a very common issue. Engine coolant hoses definitely and to a lesser extent coolant fittings on the turbos for 3.5’s
I just changed these on my '13 F150 5.0. The cooler line set is based on the engine type for part number. On my truck, the crimp for passenger tube-to-quick connect failed. It had split and sprayed ATF all over the frame. I cheated by removing the front metal bracket from the line set and slid the entire assembly back through the gap at the oil pan. I didn't have the means to drop the right side of the front axle housing in my driveway. I did do a pan drop and filter change and found the filter and fluid was 1.5 qts low based on what I recovered (5.5 qts vs 8 put back in).
I have no idea when the filter was replaced but the magnet had very little metal on it and the fluid still had some red in it, no burn smell.
I have no idea when the filter was replaced but the magnet had very little metal on it and the fluid still had some red in it, no burn smell.
Attachments
Last edited:
would a hose clamp hold that temporarily?
I planned on doing the 1/2" transmission line fix but the way this thing is starting to seep, I might take to the dealer.
With this weather here in central NY, fixing it myself right now isn't in the cards.
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2022
- Messages
- 221
That’s one of the reasons I like the belly guard under my 2016 F150. It protects the lines in that area. Mine is fairly clean and the trans cooler lines look very good.
I went back and forth today about the simplicity of changing the lines with hoses and the coolant Y.
But the way i feel lately, it’s worth the $800 for piece of mind, time, physical pain, etc.
