Evolution of Mazda USA 0W-20 Oils

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Silly post. Nothing much technical here, but just wanted to share the evolution of Mazda USA's OEM Idemitsu label/bottle changes over the years, for those of you who want a point of reference. Current generic Idemitsu IFG3 included in pic as bonus. 2 sets of pics because the first set was taken almost 2 years ago, and the old noughties style bottle has long since gone to the landfill lol... 2nd set of pics taken just a few days ago.
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Curiously, the latest Mazda version, the "ECO 7" is API SP, while the generic Idemitsu is API SQ. Must be very different formulations, besides the fact that it's well known by now (through VOAs) that except for the discontinued "high mileage" Idemitsu, the Idemitsu moly counts are quite low compared to Mazda OEM.

I've tried hard searching for VOAs or UOAs of the "ECO 7" but haven't been able to find any. I guess it's because it's stupid expensive, at boutique oil prices, that's why there's no love? lol... FWIW, I only splurged on 1 bottle of the "ECO 7" as curiosity. The old GF-5 0W20 with moly Mazda OEM oil has been discontinued at least since the beginning of the year. The much higher prices of the "ECO 7" basically forced me to buy something else, so I've settled on generic Idemitsu and mixing a quart of the remaining old stock of the Mazda 0W20 I have for the next few years. Left over from the 5 quart jug of the Idemitsu will be saved for top off oil later due to some oil burning that just happens normally. Any pointers to the "ECO 7" VOAs or UOAs will be greatly appreciated, as it serves as a good comparison between its newer GF-6 formulation and the old GF-5 one.
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Never was a problem and many never had a problem either
In my Mazda (L5VE engine - car came with factory installed oil cooler as I live in the Middle E), I've run several different oil grades (ie 0w20, 5w20, 5w30, 10w30, 10w40,15w40...and a blend of spare 15w40 and 20w50 I had lying around). No major issues with any of the aforementioned grades (the bumometer felt the car being a bit more sluggish using the 40 and 50 weighted oils, and the wallet was lighter, but overall it worked fine).

Bar pricing and availability issues, I'll continue to use either a 0w20 or 5w20 oil.
 
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In my Mazda (L5VE engine - car came with factory installed oil cooler as I live in the Middle E), I've run several different oil grades (ie 0w20, 5w20, 5w30, 10w30, 15w40). No major issues with any of the aforementioned grades (the bumometer felt the car being a bit more sluggish using the 15w40 oil, but you get used to it). Bar local availability issues, I'll continue to run either the 0w20 or 5w20 oil (whatever is cheaper).
I had basically the same thing in the L3-VE back in the days before I sold the car, but I took off the upgrade and sold it to my friend who has a LF-VE lol... I always ran GC 0W30 (R.I.P.) after the initial 5W20 factory fill.... never burned a single drop of oil that the L3-VE is infamous for
 
Silly post. Nothing much technical here, but just wanted to share the evolution of Mazda USA's OEM Idemitsu label/bottle changes over the years, for those of you who want a point of reference. Current generic Idemitsu IFG3 included in pic as bonus. 2 sets of pics because the first set was taken almost 2 years ago, and the old noughties style bottle has long since gone to the landfill lol... 2nd set of pics taken just a few days ago.View attachment 348129
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Curiously, the latest Mazda version, the "ECO 7" is API SP, while the generic Idemitsu is API SQ. Must be very different formulations, besides the fact that it's well known by now (through VOAs) that except for the discontinued "high mileage" Idemitsu, the Idemitsu moly counts are quite low compared to Mazda OEM.

I've tried hard searching for VOAs or UOAs of the "ECO 7" but haven't been able to find any. I guess it's because it's stupid expensive, at boutique oil prices, that's why there's no love? lol... FWIW, I only splurged on 1 bottle of the "ECO 7" as curiosity. The old GF-5 0W20 with moly Mazda OEM oil has been discontinued at least since the beginning of the year. The much higher prices of the "ECO 7" basically forced me to buy something else, so I've settled on generic Idemitsu and mixing a quart of the remaining old stock of the Mazda 0W20 I have for the next few years. Left over from the 5 quart jug of the Idemitsu will be saved for top off oil later due to some oil burning that just happens normally. Any pointers to the "ECO 7" VOAs or UOAs will be greatly appreciated, as it serves as a good comparison between its newer GF-6 formulation and the old GF-5 one.
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Love this post.. and the Mazda oil. I too would like to see some Mazda GF6 oil analysis... and Im very curious to see what the GF7 brings.. hope they keep high moly...I also think you got the next best oil for this engine, the Idemitsu. The supplier i was getting the Japan filter from is out of them, so Im curious, where did you get the japan filter?
 
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Doesn't seem to be the case. This is the only VOA I've found so far of the Idemitsu "IFG 3", which is a GF-7 oil:

Seeing as the Mazda "ECO 7" just came out early this year, is API SP and a GF-6 oil. I doubt there will be a API SQ and GF-7 Mazda oil with high moly any time soon, if ever. I'm behind on the latest oil trends, but I think it's because API SQ and/or GF-7 is very strict on what additives can be used?

and I bought 10 of those Tokyo Roki filters 10 years ago direct from Japan, after trying in vain to find old stock of them in the US. That old stock had long run out by the time I wanted to get them. It's still possible to buy from Japan, but it'll cost a lot more because of the current import "situation"
 
What is it? An aftermarket remote filter install? (with excessively tight bends in perhaps the wrong hose material)
First time seeing a Mazda SkyActiv engine I see. The oil filter is still where it normally is on the engine. There's no "remote filter". It's installed next to a retrofitted factory Mexican-spec oil cooler
 
Why? I run Mazda 0w20 even further south than that here in Texas. The mazda 0w20 is engineered to withstand the heat. I do however, change it at 3,000. Plenty of people have been doing it here for a long time with zero issues.
Same with me.

I've run several 0w20 and 5w20 oils (manufactured by several small Middle East oil blenders) in 42-47c heat for years. Oil is changed every 10,000km...no issues to report. Ditto for other grades (5w30, 10w30 etc...all regionally produced oils from manufactures most readers on this forum would have never heard of).

For relatively contemporary Mazda cars, there's no need to be scared running a 20 grade oil in hot conditions. The car will be fine. Mazda make good quality cars!
 
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Love this post.. and the Mazda oil. I too would like to see some Mazda GF6 oil analysis... and Im very curious to see what the GF7 brings.. hope they keep high moly...I also think you got the next best oil for this engine, the Idemitsu. The supplier i was getting the Japan filter from is out of them, so Im curious, where did you get the japan filter?
https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/mazda

OEM parts in Japan. Excellent service and fast shipping.
 
Interesting, can you tell us more about the Mazda engineering of that specific engine?
No I’m not an engineer. If you saw something I said where I was claiming to be one, please let me know as I will be sure not to use words that are not misleading. Instead like me, you’re going to have to refer to the countless oil analysis’ out there that shows, with normal driving (notwithstanding heavy towing etc) 0W20 protects just fine in hot temps (before shearing out of grade) and/or the countless testimonies of people who’s engines have gone hundreds of thousands of miles on a life of 0w20- which leads one to reasonably conclude that the engine is engineered to run just fine on this oil. Hope this helps.
 
In southern Arizona and it's 112F today. Use 0w20 in my 2012 Mazda 3 Skyactiv, 6k OCI for the last 11 years and 74k mi. of ownership.

114k miles on the odometer now, no engine issues.
 
.... and/or the countless testimonies of people who’s engines have gone hundreds of thousands of miles on a life of 0w20- which leads one to reasonably conclude that the engine is engineered to run just fine on this oil. Hope this helps.
114k miles on the odometer now, no engine issues.
Do we have information on those engines if they burn any oil? If yes—how much? If yes—did the oil contribute to that?
 
Do we have information on those engines if they burn any oil? If yes—how much? If yes—did the oil contribute to that?
I have never had to add oil within the 6k miles I run the oil. It remains very close to the full mark on the dipstick. I don't remember ever reading about excessive consumption in other 2.0 skyactiv engines.

I do 90% highway and interstate driving and consistent 75 mile round trips. My engine and oil see easy use other than all our dusty air, so maybe it's fared better than other 2.0s over the years.
 
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