Every lube man's nightmare

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The LT1s oil pump and drive is basically the same as any other smallblock chevy, the problem is the distributor in mounted to the front of the motor and directly cam driven so instead of the distributo driving the oil pump it is a dumby shaft exactly like the bottom few inches of normal distributor. So where on an old SBC you would pull the distributor and prime it, there is no distributor or even hole there on the LT1 you would have to pull the intake, then that little dumby shaft. If the worst happens a junkyard LT1 does not have to be expensive I got mine with lots of extras for $550 and only 40K on it, one thing that helped was it came from a Roadmaster, same motor the SS got but without the SS premuim added to the price.

Before putting my motor in I pulled the plugs and sprayed fogging oil in, I bet seafoam deep creep would be great too. Then turned it a couple times by hand and changed the oil. Once in I defeated the fuel and spark systems, the fuel by unplugging the FP wiring under the trunk, then cranked it till the dash showed pressure, let the starter cool and did that a few more times before firing it. Over 40K since and added a bigger cam, all is good. Really I think you are worrying a bit too much but being overly cautious is better than having just jumped in and fired it with that nasty formerly oil crap in the pan.
 
It's as easy as this .
Fresh battery and bump the starter , if the motor is not stuck fire it , get it warm and drain the oil .

Stick a low cost solvent cleaner in the crankcase , fire it again and even drive at low RPM and drain .
Then one more , maybe 500 mile interval and be on your way with one last say, 2k interval before business as usual .......... slip some M1 0w-40 in it for awhile before running Synergyn
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Most of all, double or triple dose with low cost fuel cleaner...STP brand works well...wanna see before and after pics of STP fuel cleaner ?
 
Well I'm going to have a similar situation soon. I had an 87 year old neighbor who recently died. She has a mint 1993 Buick Century with the 3.8L engine and 13,000 miles. The last time it was started was about 2 years ago. The daughter's boy friend wants to buy the car. It's in mint condition and he has a Tarus with 150,000 miles on it. He bought a new battery and was going to start the car but I suggested that he(which means ME) change the oil first and run it for 300 miles or so and then change it again and run it for 1500 miles and change again, new oil filters each time of course. Since it's not my car I don't want to spend money or time to get it running. That's why I thought doing an oil change before it's started and 300 miles later would at least be helpful to the engine. The boy friend bought enough oil and oil filters for 2 oil changes. And NO I'M NOT DOING AN UOA
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.

Whimsey
 
marvel mystery oil helped me out tremdously when i pulled the darin plug on my '46 cj-2a that i knew that it had water in the oil.....

when i first pulled my plug there was pure water coming out then "mayo"..... i knew that was very bad but i had paid what i paid for the willys and knew this wasnt going to stop me on getting it to run....... After 2 oil changes and pouring some MMO into the spark plus holes and letting it sit like that for a week and a half..... i did one more oil change and started it up......

BIG cloud of smoke and the relief that i had when i started it was great...... although it still needs to have a engine rebuild... it runs just fine now on 10w30 maxlife oil from valvoline...

i may switch to either the delo 15w40 or just some 10w40 HM oil

good luck on your impala...

k
 
quote:

Originally posted by GROUCHO MARX:
Motorbike keeps it simple. I like that.

A perfectionaist I'm not . Unless we are speaking of race motors then it's a different deal .

Meticulous yes , easier on the brain than being a perfectionist . Alot of hype on the internet ............ Aircraft TO's teach there are no grey areas .......we don't fly our cars though do we ?

Mobil Oil dino took me long and far , 3 cars at 200k each ....... now look at me running Synergyn . Was sick of those cars at 200k and now heading for 500k with this oil .

Hmmmm , might do myself a favor and use Citgo to reduces my time with the car's . 350k is enough anyway
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Before you try to start it, I suggest disconnecting the ignition and cranking it over a bunch until oil pressure shows on the gauges for 5-10 seconds. Then reconnect iginition and fire her up.

DEWFPO
 
IT'S ALIVE IT'S ALIVE MUHAHAHAHAHAHAH

Yep the Impala lives on, we poured in the fresh gas along with the Chevron fuel cleaner. Course it took a minute for fuel pressure to build up but she fired up after 9 years.

It was spitting and sputtering, knocking and pinging at first but it lives!! Auto-Rx came in today so we plan on adding that after we do some very short OCI's. Like what Motorbike said, around 500 miles, then get some more dino oil whatever brand and then dump the Auto-rx in there. Course we had to assist it in keeping in running for the first 1/2 hr but after that it idled on it's own, little on the rough side but it eventually smoothed out as the engine reached operating temp.

We also changed out the tranny fluid, no Auto-rx for the tranny but maybe in the future. At first it didn't go into gear, drop the tranny pan, drained the TC (Torque Converter) then it was operational. Aired up the tires and the car saw the light of day for the first time in 9 years.

Funny thing is, my uncle got it out into the street then just hammered down on the gas!! engine almost stalled then 1 second layed rubber like no tommorow!! lol funniset thing!!

I thought the gas smelled when we drained it from the tank, no this exhaust stunk to high heaven and thas no bs either! Then I took her out, still a little shaky but it's getting better. Course it still needs work to be fully roadworthy again but it runs and drives now at least. Yes we do plan on draining and refilling the rear diff in the future.

I should've sent in the 9 year old oil for a UOA just for ****s n giggles, hehe. I'll keep everyone posted of how the Impala is running,,,AR
 
Those BFGs(if still the stock tires) sucked even new much less now and likely half dry rotted, maybe after an oil change or two you you guys could put them out of their misery
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. We want pics though.

I am about due for tires on my Caprice(same car just a trim package) and plan to make their final drive pictureworthy. Wouldn't have thought of doing that to them 3 years ago when I paid $150 apiece(255/55/ZR17) but lots of miles later they treated me well so I owe them a good sendoff.
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Hey,

I'll see what I can do about pics. The car is an SS I forgot to mention. I can't force him to let me take some pics, after all it is his car.

I don't know what brand of tires it has on it, but I'm sure it's in need of new ones after sitting on them for 9 years. Yes they are the original tires believe it or not!

What I really want to do is get it detailed up, flawless, the way an SS should look
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Meguiars style, nothing to the Zaino crowd or anybody else just Meguiars is my thing
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We've been playing around with the car little longer tonight to make sure it's all loosened up and ready to go. I asked him if he wants to sell it in the near future, he says he was playing around with the idea of selling but never made a for sure decision on the matter, though I do hope he wants to, hehe
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But I'm sure he'll want a left testicle for it. Maybe he can cut me a deal, lol j/k

Tommorow we plan on changing out the rear diff, and do some brake work on it. I think it calls for 75w90 for the rear but don't quote me on it.

The brakes are another matter, they still work but you have to be real gentle with them and they car pulls severely to the right so maybe the drivers side brakes are alittle loose and the passenger side is doing all the work. I wouldn't be suprised one bit if it needed the whole shabang. Rotors, pads, bearings, races, seals etc...

We put about 35 miles on the car tonight and it seemed to be getting better and better but the brakes need work pronto! I'll keep everyone up to speed of what's going on,,,,AR
 
There are a couple of us here that can help with parts selection should any be needed, not just best parts but also parts that are just plain a great buy like Performance Friction brand pads from AutoZone good enough to autocross on but still only $36 with a lifetime warranty
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. You might check out http://www.impalassforum.com/ find all you need for repair or maitanance to blown nitroused stroker. I know it was linked to above but there really is an increadible amount of model specific info there. Like this is THE board to go to for oil stuff that one is the best for b-body tech.

In the rear you are right on the weight I would just like to add stay away from synthetics for this, the clutch style Auburn posi it has is not fond of them and will likely chatter if synthetic is used. Also you will want to add posi additive.
 
Congrats on getting it running! It appears to me that you have done a good job - you showed a lot of common sense, were logical and methodical, and spent your money on the right things. Very efficient!

Please be sure to keep an eye on the rubber components under the hood. They may be rotted and could fail in the next couple of months as they are temp-cycled with engine heat. Especially examine the fuel lines, fuel hoses, and clamps.

Don't be surprised - you will probably have to spend some significant money on professionally servicing the brakes. Have them disassembled, cleaned and reassembled, putting brake grease on the caliper slides. Check to ensure that the caliper pistons are not sticking. Do you have rear drun brakes? If so, disassemble and clean everything with brake cleaner. There are some little grease spots you can put back there, too, to keep the shoes from squeaking on the backing plate. The rear pistons should probably be rebuilt. You also need to bleed the brakes, completely purging all old brake fluid in the system. If you need to replace the disk pads and rear shoes (I recommend it), then have the disks and drums turned. This will clean them up best and ensure that the friction surfaces are nice and flat for best brake performance and less noise long term. Not much metal will need to be removed if they are in decent shape, so you are not hurting the longevity of the brakes. The brakes have to be perfect, man.

You already know that this car will need a little TLC for a while, but you are doing a great job on getting it in shape. I hope that it lasts a long time!

Congrats again!
 
Run some Fuel power in the gas. Impala has rear disks, and yes, they are probably froze up. Check out ImpalaSSforum.com for more Impala specific info.
 
Since it is a 94 i would suggest also replacing the fuse box that is in the engine compartment. It is the one that is on the passenger side next to the firewall. Chevy just used some cheap poor conducting metal on the post where the line from the battery comes in and they will over heat, melt the plastic, make the car quit, and I think that some have even reported them catching stuff on fire!!!! Again I will suggest that if you have not allready check out the Impala Forum.
 
Two brake related problem to check regarding the rear calipers. The caliper pins tend to rust and corrode and stick, which causes irratic brake operation. Another common problem is the two bolts that hold the calipers on the spindle tend to back out!
 
Jim is right on the rear brakes definetely worth a look. On the fusebox thing GM makes a new brass stud to replace the crappy zinc one, all you really need is that stud.

One of my wife's old coworkers got home from the grocery store and parked the '94 Impala in the garage. While unloading they noticed smoke, managed to push it out of the garage before it lit up which it did. The car was a total loss by the time the fire deparment arrived but at least noone was hurt and they got it out of the house before it lit so there was no damage there. The new bolt is only a buck or two, absolutely worth the effort to replace.
 
quote:

Originally posted by EmbarkChief:
Open the trunk, on the top left side of the decklid there will be a white sticker with a bunch of 3 digit codes listed. Let me know if you find any of these 4 codes:

G80
B4U
9C1
WX3

On the vin, what is the 8th letter?

Also, while you are at it, change the rear diff gasket. Its important.


Just wanted to throw this at you again.
 
Congratulations on getting that sucker running!

Don't forget to lube the **** out of the chassis with some high-quality grease and check the CV boots for splits/cracks.
 
No CV boots this thing is driven from the right end the rear.
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Besides that though I think an update is in order.
 
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