Evaporating Mazda Clamp

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Jul 1, 2014
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I was doing an oil change and this is what's left of my 2012 Mazda 3 hose clamp. I am planning on replacing these as preventative. Would you do the hose as well? The wet spot is just moisture from undertray btw.

I was thinking hoses bursting isn't that common on modern cars, but the rust might be cutting into the hose.


mazda_clamp.webp
 
Hoses may be fine after 12 years however I'd be more concerned about the "memory" indentation of the original clamps into the hoses and the integrity of the new clamps sealing 100%.
 
Hoses may be fine after 12 years however I'd be more concerned about the "memory" indentation of the original clamps into the hoses and the integrity of the new clamps sealing 100%.
If one uses OE clamps, just match the position.
 
Hoses may be fine after 12 years however I'd be more concerned about the "memory" indentation of the original clamps into the hoses and the integrity of the new clamps sealing 100%.
I recently watched a Youtube video of someone doing a coolant flush and they were very careful to mark the clamp positions prior to disconnecting hoses so he could place them back in the exact same position afterward, presumably for the reason you’re brining up here. I’m not a mechanic but that’s something I hadn’t really thought about in the past.
 
I was doing an oil change and this is what's left of my 2012 Mazda 3 hose clamp. I am planning on replacing these as preventative. Would you do the hose as well? The wet spot is just moisture from undertray btw.

I was thinking hoses bursting isn't that common on modern cars, but the rust might be cutting into the hose.


View attachment 239529
I'm surprised the top one isn't broken yet. I just replaced one on my Focus that had broke and was letting a good dribble of coolant out when the temperatures got high, even with the hose still on.
 
I would replace the hose if I was keeping the car for the forseeable future. My .03 (inflation.)

I have two Mazda's in my stable and considering a third for my son (to replace the Kia Rio.) Dissapointing to see this. But, we live in South Carolina, not the rust belt, so hopefully not an issue for us.
 
I would replace at least the clamp, because with that much rust, the spring tension on that clamp is reduced.

For me, personally, I would do the hose and both clamps, to avoid any other “issues” that might crop up, but it’s just the clamp that needs to be done.
 
This brings up a general observation I've made about rust - what does or doesn't rust seems inconsistent.

1. I bought license plate screws that were supposed to be rust resistant - three have no rust at all and one is completely rusted.
2. The bolt that hold the cables that support the gate on the Tundra on the left side is completely rusted but the bolt on the right side looks perfect.
3. Half the screws for the skid plate are completely rusted and half look perfect.

There seems to be little rhyme or reason.
 
I'm surprised that anyone would have let this clamp get THAT rusty and not replace it!
Don't know if this your car or not and no offence is intended, but I see mechanical neglect,
If this is a car you're buying I'd replace ALL the fluids, hoses & clamps.
 
I'm surprised that anyone would have let this clamp get THAT rusty and not replace it!
Don't know if this your car or not and no offence is intended, but I see mechanical neglect,
If this is a car you're buying I'd replace ALL the fluids, hoses & clamps.

It is my car. It has recently been for service at two different shops and they didn't flag it during their inspection.

I guess this is a normal clamp for the rust belt.
 
It should be easy enough to break the old clamp off and put on a stainless-steel worm clamp without removing the hose. Normally I prefer to use spring type clamps, but this would be an exception.
 
It should be easy enough to break the old clamp off and put on a stainless-steel worm clamp without removing the hose. Normally I prefer to use spring type clamps, but this would be an exception.
Yeah someone could zip through the old clamp, destructively, with a 3" wheel. Or pinch what's left of the pinchies with a pliers, breaking them, then they can get a thin screwdriver or whatever underneath and pry the thing apart.

I wouldn't break a good, been-there-for-a-decade seal just to get the old clamp off cleanly.
 
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