Has anyone tried the Evans low pressure system in a diesel??
Evan's NPG+
- Thread starter Shup1
- Start date
- Status
JHZR2
Staff member
A guy over at mercedesshop.com did on his MB diesel. The key is to get ALL the water out prior to using this stuff... I forget how he did it, as that is a rough task.
He seemed to like it a lot, and loved the fact that he didnt build any pressure in the cooling system, IIRC.
JMH
He seemed to like it a lot, and loved the fact that he didnt build any pressure in the cooling system, IIRC.
JMH
Yes, I tried this on VW diesels. I do not recommend it. First, it is impossible to remove enough water from the system unless you are pulling the motor and heater core out. Second, you need a larger radiator to use it. It is simply 30% less efficient than the 50-50 glycol water mix so you need a larger radiator despite what their marketing says. If I were going to restore an older car I would use this stuff because it brings long term corrosion to zero. That is its only advantage, everything else is a negative. To make the extra power they claim, you need a reverse flow cooling system which is 100% responsible for the power improvements they post, not the propylene glycol. I have heard, but never experienced, that Evans is effective at cooling problem engines that develop real hot spots in the heads. These are always turbo cars running a lot more boost than a street car could- like 23 psi. In this case, the cars use very large radiators to compensate for the lack of heat transfer in the Evans coolant, and they are rally cars.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,798
You have to really restrict the bypass circuit in the engine. The viscous nature of the stuff tends to make it recirc a disproportionate amount of heated coolant through the heater core (if that's the bypass path) than push the heavier, unheated, mass in the rad. It's tough to use with modern engines. The normalized temp is higher and fans run 24/7 after warm up.
The NPG+ has corrosion inhibiters in it. The NPG does not. That's the one that requires zero water in the system. They sell some agent that absorbs the water and it can be used as makeup.
It's not for everybody ...and would be additionally challenging for those who see too cold a temp.
The NPG+ has corrosion inhibiters in it. The NPG does not. That's the one that requires zero water in the system. They sell some agent that absorbs the water and it can be used as makeup.
It's not for everybody ...and would be additionally challenging for those who see too cold a temp.
all the above info is at best misleading.
I have 4 different vehicles using NPG+ for 3 years with NO NEGATIVE EFFECTS
No adding to any vehicles since initial fill over 3 years ago. 1 diesel truck, 1 road course car, 1 taurus SHO, 1 1967 mustang 370 rwhp, 1 ktm dirt bike.
I couldn't be any more satisfied with this product, I am happy it exist so I have more time to fix all the other problems my cars have.
Used it in a turbo3 cyl suzuki engine in an airplane that was boiling while taxi'ing. Rigged shop air at low psi to blow through for a couple days to evap all the water. It worked, no boiling, but it did run hotter on the gauge.
running hotter is not a problem anymore, you have constant cooling and your temp will be more predictable 230 degrees is a normal temp for a hard working engine, the coolant is transfering heat off the jacket without boiling like water or coolant at those temps.
I took me awhile to feel comfertable watching my temp rise but after a period of time I could see the coolant is in control of the engine temps under all adverse conditions
wouldn't the water boil out during use if the rad cap was vented 0 psessure?
Can't you use Propylene Glycol coolant to flush the water out instead of Evan's pricey flush? NPG is propylene glycol + additives...
Is this different with the NPG+?
Isn't NPG+ thinner than the regular NPG?
And both don't use water in the mix...
http://www.evanscooling.com/catalog/C_npg1.htm
http://www.evanscooling.com/html/npgPls.htm
Is this different with the NPG+?
Isn't NPG+ thinner than the regular NPG?
And both don't use water in the mix...
http://www.evanscooling.com/catalog/C_npg1.htm
http://www.evanscooling.com/html/npgPls.htm
Why doesn't the water in normal water/glycol coolant mixes cook out?
Also I believe the NPG is hygroscopic, so you have to make sure you don't have any leaks or other way for air to get into the system.
I completely agree with lazaro. Evans NPG+ works very well.
I have run Evans NPG+ it in 2 Honda Accords, a Ford Powerstroke diesel, a Kubota diesel tractor and 4 dirtbikes for years. Evans NPG+ works great.
There is no observable difference in the temperature gage on the cars or truck. The tractor has no temp gage.
The dirtbikes would overheat and boil conventional 50/50 antifreeze water mix coolant on long, steep climbs at high elevation. With Evans NPG+ they have not had any loss of coolant or any overheating issues. They work just fine under the same extreme conditions.
I flush each engine with distilled water and run the engine until it is warm (not hot) with just distilled water in it. Then I drain the water, disconnect the radiator hoses and heater hoses and then let the residual engine heat evaporate the remaining water for a few hours. I then put the hoses back on and fill with Evans NPG+. This procedure will usually get the water content to less than 1% according to test samples. If the residual water content is too high it can usually be boiled out of Evans NPG+ coolant on most systems if you leave the system unpressurized and work the engine hard getting it very warm. The water evaporates long before the Evans NPG+.
As a note, the guy I buy my Evans NPG+ from builds performance Mazda rotary engines. He states there are 2 ways to deal with the overheating of those engines. 1) install a bigger radiator or 2) put Evans NPG+ in the stock system. He and many of his customers run Evans NPG+. With Evans NPG+ they solve their overheating issues while using the stock radiator.
I could not get my heater to put out heat at idle. I do have a TSB that adds about 6 ft of heater hose to the heater core. It also puts a restrictor in an intake fitting.
So in all fairness this could be a problem with the design of my 96 Taurus. I just could not drive my car with out good heat at idle.
I really wanted to run it.
So in all fairness this could be a problem with the design of my 96 Taurus. I just could not drive my car with out good heat at idle.
I really wanted to run it.
I had my mechanic do a bunch of preventative maintnance work on my 01 BMW about a month after I first got it. I bought some of the NPG+ and it was put in place of the factory coolant. I didnt know that you had to have all of the water out of the system in order to use it. What will happen if there is still some water left someware in the system? As a side note, this has been about 3 months ago and I just checked it for the first time in about a month and it seems that i have lost a little bit of coolant. I wonder if this may be due to some water that may have been still in the system boiling out. Also after I had all of the work done, my temp seems to run just a little hotter than it used to and it takes the car a bit longer to warm up. This could be from alot of different things though.
People equate the "boiling over" with overheating when it's just not the case.
Having a boil-resistant coolant can be damaging if your engine reaches too high of a temperature. The pistons will get too warm and start scuffing.
Just because it's not boiling, doesn't mean it's running below "overheating".
srl1104 - You need to get all the ethylene glycol coolant out of the system. The ethylene and propyl glycols (NPG+)form an acid when they mix. It will corrode your system.
My advice to all NPG converts, there is plenty that can and does go wrong with this conversion.People have been successful with it, and plenty of people have had "issues". Don't be the first to try it on your 2007 Mercedes SLR.
My advice to all NPG converts, there is plenty that can and does go wrong with this conversion.People have been successful with it, and plenty of people have had "issues". Don't be the first to try it on your 2007 Mercedes SLR.
MY uderstanding is you do need to get all water out..and the way many do that is very simple..just drill a very small whole in your radiator cap..then as the car heats the water / coolant muxture, eventually the water boils out...don't even need to replace the cap if you don't want to ... run a search on some diesel forums out on the web
Does that work? Would the water would boil out since it would be a mixture of water and glycol that would need to boil? Granted it isn't much water, but the purpose of mixing glycol with the water is to raise the boiling point and/or lower the freezing point.
I think I read that Evans doesn't have any corrosion inhibiters or anything, and that's why water is contaminant for Evans.
I think I read that Evans doesn't have any corrosion inhibiters or anything, and that's why water is contaminant for Evans.
I'm not sure if the mechanic flushed all of the old coolant out really well or not. So in order to make sure all of the water is out of the system could I just remove the radiator cap and let it get hot? When the stuff first got put in, it was full and now 3 months later it has dropped a little bit. I wonder if this could be some water evaporating or if something worse is happening.
The only way to really know what is going on is to have the water content of your coolant analyzed.
- Status