erdict: What's the best filter?

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Originally Posted By: kschachn
Super duper. Nothing gets by you, does it?

And "erdict"?


When I first saw the title I thought it said "erect" haha :p
 
Originally Posted By: HosteenJorje
DENSO
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Yeah, but they're still nice guys despite that...
 
Originally Posted By: HosteenJorje
Thank you. DENSO

Why do you keep posting this? Far as I know, the jury's still out on Denso now that they've changed their construction.
 
Originally Posted By: penataquit
Originally Posted By: HosteenJorje
Thank you. DENSO

Why do you keep posting this? Far as I know, the jury's still out on Denso now that they've changed their construction.


It's what got him 1714 of his 1784 posts.
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Originally Posted By: Triple_Se7en
Best filter are those with most trapping ability. But flow is important also. That's why I choose the Tough Guard over the Ultra for 12k runs (2-6K OCIs).


Show us the data where the TG flows better than the Ultra.
 
Originally Posted By: CT8
The best oil filter is a quality air filter.


The best air filter is a somewhat dirty air filter.

Installing new air filters can be detrimental to your engines health. Better believe it!
 
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
Originally Posted By: CT8
The best oil filter is a quality air filter.


The best air filter is a somewhat dirty air filter.

Installing new air filters can be detrimental to your engines health. Better believe it!


I won't be able to fall asleep tonight, not until you tell us why?
 
I won't even attempt to pull up all the data, but an in depth study was made and the results, in a nutshell, is this:

A somewhat dirty air filter has MUCH higher filtering efficiency than a new one. So, A new air filter is terribly INEFFICIENT -- until it loads some. (Of course we are not saying a totally CLOGGED filter is good either).

A new air filter lets more contaminates into your engine, so, replacing them often actually PREVENTS them from reaching the point where they do a much better job.

Sleep well.
 
Okay,

I'll throw my hat in the ring.

First, best oil filter can't be anything but opinion. I guarantee my opinion is wrong.

For me, the best oil filter is a Microgreen filter. It appears to be a quality filter, and it has a built-in bypass filter down to 2 microns or so. I don't buy into their claim that you can go 30,000 miles on one oil change so I just use them as high quality oil filters that dial filtering to 11.

I figure this filter can't hurt and might help. I also use a motion pro oil filter magnet between the filter and the engine block. And I use two filtermag oil filter magnets on the outside of the oil filter.

I figure that:

1 - None of what I'm doing will possibly hurt the engine.
2 - Maybe, just maybe, it will keep the oil cleaner than usual, and that will further reduce wear.
 
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
A somewhat dirty air filter has MUCH higher filtering efficiency than a new one. So, A new air filter is terribly INEFFICIENT -- until it loads some. (Of course we are not saying a totally CLOGGED filter is good either).

A new air filter lets more contaminates into your engine, so, replacing them often actually PREVENTS them from reaching the point where they do a much better job.


Yes - up to a point.

A NEW filter will flow "X" cfm of airflow at "Y" pressure drop.
A new filter will flow "Z" percentage of total air flow needed to reach rated engine power (usually about 150%)

YES- some microscopic particles will make their way through the pores, but they aren't significant to overall engine life. Any filter designed to capture ALL of the particles will have far too great of "Y" pressure drop, and if the rate of flow "X" falls below 100% of the required "Z", or less, engine performance suffers.

Forget air filter "gimmicks"... buy a good quality paper unit that fits in the stock location and change it when it gets dirty. The new air filter won't significantly alter engine life.
 
Originally Posted By: AirgunSavant
I'd like to see your TG at 12K? Do you cut filters or would you send it to one of us?
I have some TG's I'm going to put into service just to get rid of them and I've seen many Ultras all the way out to 24K over three OCI's but the TG at 12K is new to me.


Are you expecting to see different results? If so.... Why?

A TG at 12K (with one OCI) will *probably* look about the same as a TG with "24K over three OCI's"
 
Originally Posted By: Linctex
Yes - up to a point.


I did make it clear when I said: (Of course we are not saying a totally CLOGGED filter is good either).
 
Originally Posted By: Linctex
Any filter designed to capture ALL of the particles will have far too great of "Y" pressure drop, and if the rate of flow "X" falls below 100% of the required "Z", or less, engine performance suffers.


To add ... true for FI computer controlled engines if X falls below 100% of requirement Z, while operating at WOT. The beauty of FI controlled engines is that they will adjust A/F ratio to stay correct as the filter gets more and more clogged up, until the correction is outside the range of the FI system, which would show up first at WOT conditions.

On old carburetor engines, the air filter getting dirty started effecting the A/F ratio tune right away because carbs had fixed fuel jets. A dirty air filter would start making the engine run richer and richer as the filter clogged up.
 
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
To add ... true for FI computer controlled engines if X falls below 100% of requirement Z, while operating at WOT. The beauty of FI controlled engines is that they will adjust A/F ratio to stay correct as the filter gets more and more clogged up, until the correction is outside the range of the FI system, which would show up first at WOT conditions.


Correct - I have actually seen one paper filter completely fail, but it was a combo of lots of dust and an eventual rain puddle that made a "plaster" of sorts (completely plugging it) and it failed catastrophically - large sections of muddy pleat were missing and must have got ingested. High School girl - - she drove it that way for months!
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Originally Posted By: kohnen
Okay,

I'll throw my hat in the ring.

First, best oil filter can't be anything but opinion. I guarantee my opinion is wrong.

For me, the best oil filter is a Microgreen filter. It appears to be a quality filter, and it has a built-in bypass filter down to 2 microns or so. I don't buy into their claim that you can go 30,000 miles on one oil change so I just use them as high quality oil filters that dial filtering to 11.

I figure this filter can't hurt and might help. I also use a motion pro oil filter magnet between the filter and the engine block. And I use two filtermag oil filter magnets on the outside of the oil filter.

I figure that:

1 - None of what I'm doing will possibly hurt the engine.
2 - Maybe, just maybe, it will keep the oil cleaner than usual, and that will further reduce wear.



For autos Id have to agree and say micro green, they offer a unique 2 stage filter and a unique 30K sump claim.

The fram ultra comes in a close second at the top of the single stages based on it's price, performance, construction, availability

For diesel trucks Id say the Cummin Strata Pour Venturi with the stacked disk internal bypass is an even better 2 stage systems than Microgreens PTFE micro disk.
 
How is the microGreen any better than the Fram Ultra?

microGreen lists that the full-flow element removes between 25-40 microns, and the second-stage microfilter between 2-5 microns.

Fram Ultra is:
99% @ 20 microns
94% @ 10 microns
80% @ 5 microns (according to 901Memphis)

microGreen for my application is $12. Fram is $8.40. According to Motorking, their packaging will be updated this year to reflect longer change intervals (from 15k to 24k, IIRC).

10-20 micron material is what is doing the most damage over time.
 
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