Engines that are "picky" about oil

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A couple of important ones I haven't seen mentioned yet:

Engines especially susceptible to ring coking
and
ones especially inclined to form sludge.

Appropriate chemistry to deal with those might be more important brand name, or the iffy subjective stuff people like to talk about.
 
Originally Posted By: FordCapriDriver
The famous Detroit 2 stroke Diesels still have to be run on Mono SAE 40 oils as they will devour and rip to shreds any and all multigrade you put in them.


A coworker of mine has an old Crown Schoolbus with a Detroit two stroke. Mono 40 only for sure on that engine. Thing sounds awesome though.
 
Originally Posted By: SubieRubyRoo
Originally Posted By: VeryNoisyPoet
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Any high mileage small block ford (SBF), pre about 2005 or so ...

Any details for those of us unfamiliar with the quirks of these engines? Noise, sludge, consumption? What oils seem to help, what ones seem to make it worse?


Give me an 87-92 5.0 roller motor with forged pistons, some Pennzoil 5W30, some AFR heads and Trick Flow intake, a 150 shot, and a T56 conversion, and all is right with the world.

Til those dang LS engines came along and took Ford's Windsor pattern to another level of muscle...
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Then I bought one of those.

My favorite license plate ever seen on a street racing 1998 Camaro that likely ran 9s around 2000.. "LS WON", and he certainly did!


Not to beat this thing to death but all the small and big block Fords I’ve owned (there have been a lot) would run forever on about anything from 5-20 to 15-40 to 20-50. Never seemed to matter. The only one that I had that used oil was the 302 I melted the ring lands off the pistons with a 175 shot and not enough fuel enrichment.
 
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I put over 240000miles on my 79 Sierra Classic, carbed 350, 10W30 Havoline. Although it did start to burn oil when I finally got around to selling it.

The 2010 2.4l in the Terrain, I use Coop 5w30. Full syn initially to clean it out from previous owner, now coop dexos. Depending on driving conditions it may use a liter inbetween oil changes. 5k, am not using oci computer.
 
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My 2004 Dodge Grand Caravan w/ 3.3L V6

It started out as a company vehicle for the company I currently work for. Always well taken care of, because I was always the one who made sure it got maintained on a reasonably consistent schedule.

While it was a company vehicle it got oil changed and other work done by the mechanics that were quite literally next door to us. I dont know what brand of oil they used, but Im reasonably sure it was just run of the mill conventional 5w-30 which is the grade that the manual calls for.

The first oil change I did on it myself after getting it for nothing from the company (they were sympathetic to my plight at the time, which was the engine in my 04 Monte Carlo letting go) was with Mobil Super 5000. It seemed to run well on both the oil the shop used and what I changed it with. It never really made much noise, but always had a bit of a rough idle. Just enough to notice, not enough to be annoying. I dont remember what oil filter the mechanic shop used, but the first one I put on was a Fram iirc.

My second oil change (the most recent) was Valvoline Max Life High Mileage Synthetic Blend 5w-30 and a Wix XP oil filter. Now its probably all in my head, but it seemed to liven up a bit with this. Responsiveness improved a bit (just enough to be noticeable) and the rough idle seems to have gone away. Runs smoother, and if there was any noise, its gone now.
 
Every car that I've used Pennzoil or Quaker State in has always run more smooth and quiet than any other oil. I think oil chemistry can definitely make a difference.
 
Originally Posted By: VeryNoisyPoet
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Any high mileage small block ford (SBF), pre about 2005 or so ...

Any details for those of us unfamiliar with the quirks of these engines? Noise, sludge, consumption? What oils seem to help, what ones seem to make it worse?


I have two high mileage 302 SBF's (both over 200K) that run fine, pass SMOG testing, etc. Still adequate power, etc. They both hate Mobil 1 Xw-30 anything. Start either after sitting a few days and you'd swear they were going to puke a rod. Same motor on Delo 400 15W-30 SD is as quiet as a mouse. Ditto any HDEO in the 15W-40 range.

On my current 5.8L F150 (~90K), it is fine on M1 10W-30. No issues.

It's about residual oil film thickness and worn bearing clearances.
 
Originally Posted By: camrydriver111
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
I think big inline DOHC 4 are picky. Like my Nissan QR25DE.
Depends how picky the DRIVERS are too. Me, I want full throttle high rpm power AND low speed (1200-1500 rpm) lug-ability in top gear.

The RIGHT filter will fix most engine noise too if your oil is good. Today this is M110A (Champion labs traditional good build) for most Asian cars (minus Toyotas)


Nissan probably fixed it by now but when this engine first same out it had a lot of problems.

I think the stroke to rod length makes it susceptible to wear at high rpms and generates a lot of vibration.

In some models like the Altima the catalytic converter material can also break down, get sucked back into the engine, and cause engine wear.
Yeah they are all going to long "big block V8" strokes now. Yes Toyota big 4 bangers too. Makes for a rough engine.

Even the tiny Honda 1.5 is way undersquare and runs terribly rough.

If this Nissan motor is still running in my hands and on E10 for 4 years - its decent!
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I drive a ton of miles for work, I have accumulated almost 2 million Kilometers (1.2 million miles) over the past almost 2 decades. I have found Amsoil's oils to be quite up to the task of engine protection, cleanliness and quietness over extended drain intervals.

Not because it's a "fancy" oil or anything but because they seem to put a lot of thought into their oils and their newest formula as of last fall is stellar providing fantastic UOA's for me at least.

For me up in Canada it doesn't cost much more to use Amsoil versus off the shelf synthetics from the big brands like M1, Castrol etc. so I have stuck with it.

My Santa Fe went 535,000km before it snapped a camshaft because of what I think was metal defect. Before that it burned no oil, was quite quiet even though these engines were notorious for loud lifters on start-up.

I'm currently using their 0W20 in my new 2018 Highlander and it's much quieter than the Factory Fill from Toyota.

Just FWIW.
 
Originally Posted By: HemiHawk
Originally Posted By: VeryNoisyPoet
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Any high mileage small block ford (SBF), pre about 2005 or so ...

Any details for those of us unfamiliar with the quirks of these engines? Noise, sludge, consumption? What oils seem to help, what ones seem to make it worse?


I'd like to know as well. Recently picked up a 95 Mustang with the 5.0. 85k Miles. I changed the oil with 10w30 Pennzoil plat high mileage. Seems to run OK with Ford filter.

On the thread topic, I've heard of people having engine rattle or tick in the Nissan 4.0s with certain oils and filters. Some run 0w40 instead of the recommended 5w30 to quiet it down. I don't have the issue with 5w30 M1 and Fram ultra filter though.


85K ani't what I consider high mileage. Around 130K and you'll start to hear soft rod clatter first thing. Gets worse over time. Then it's time to start being concerned with what oil to use
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Originally Posted By: thescreensavers
My 4.0 is quieter on 15W40 HDEO Maxlife than it was on 10W40 Maxlife at least on cold starts the bottom end is quieter.


That's about right. Fair difference between 10W and 15W
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Originally Posted By: thescreensavers
My 4.0 is quieter on 15W40 HDEO Maxlife than it was on 10W40 Maxlife at least on cold starts the bottom end is quieter.


My 2017 5.3L is quieter on Mobil 1 EP 0w20 than my 2010 5.3L is on Delvac 1 5w40 or PP Euro 5w30
 
My 08 Liberty is quieter on PU 5w30 than it was on SSO 0W20, and Edge 0W20. Mobil 1 AFE 0W20 and PYB 5W20 was the quietest of the 20 grades. IIRC PU 5w30 is the quietest of the bunch.
 
Two Nissan I4's - a QR25DE and MR20DE.

MR Engine is a Renault motor. Loud chatter when warming up. Worse in winter. Only oil that has made any difference in that racket is Magnatec 10w-30, of the dozen or so I've tried (MAG1, Total Quartz, Havoline/Chevron, PEAK, Carquest, PYB, Mobil Super 5000, GTX, Valvoline Next Gen all in 5-30, Formula Shell and QSAD in 10w-30.)

I got a bunch of 5 qt. jugs of old formula QSUD 5w-30 for $1.65 each when AAP was giving it away. Now that's in both cars. Magnatec is noticeably quieter, although I'm sure the QS is just fine in terms of protection. Cars get whatever is on sale.
 
Its MAINLY the garbage Nissan filters. I found this out by chasing terrible engine racket for over a year and losing a Renault motor (1.6L versa note) to a bad Chinese Nissan Filter. Though they appear fine the Mexican source NISSAN filters have not worked consistenly for me either. Nissan use the nearly "universal" Asian oil filter mount used on many cars (Honda, Mitsubishi, Subaru, Nissan, Hyundai/Kia Kawasaki - NOT Toyota)

Currently using the M1 M110A "champ labs classic" filter with great results. This is the larger but still too small, IMHO - V8 Titan part number. I'm sure a mid level, Non-Ecore Champ Labs variant would be fine too.

Just get the Titan V8, GT-R sized filter it give you about another 5/8" length or so and will fit just fine.
 
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