Engine Warm Up Time does it matter?
- Thread starter Chimay
- Start date
- Status
Modern fuel injected computer controled engines need little or no warmup before being driven moderately. What is more important is a good sealing thermostat that opens abruptly at operating temperature (190 - 195 F). Having the engine temperature rise quickly will bring the engine into its efficiency range quickly thus reducing overall emissions, improving gas milage and also ensuring a minimum of polutants enter the oil. Another plus is that the oil too will reach operating temp quickly and start evaporating off the moisture sooner and longer for a given driving period. Unless your a wimp and don't own any warm clothing or mits, there is no need to warm up your vehicle before driving moderatly.
Sounds like a coolant heater would be a good option for you.
I've always though extended idling is harder on your engine than just driving away and keeping the RPMs down till warm. Of course if you can't see driving away may not be the best option.
I've always though extended idling is harder on your engine than just driving away and keeping the RPMs down till warm. Of course if you can't see driving away may not be the best option.
JHZR2
Staff member
turbo as low as possible until temp is at least halfway between cold and normal.
I let it sit for maybe 5-10 seconds then start moving slowly. Its important that the oil and metal parts warm up as fast as possible so that the oil can protect as well as its designed, and the parts can fit together best so that max efficiency and low wear is possible.
JMH
I let it sit for maybe 5-10 seconds then start moving slowly. Its important that the oil and metal parts warm up as fast as possible so that the oil can protect as well as its designed, and the parts can fit together best so that max efficiency and low wear is possible.
JMH
Keep doing that. I little wear on the engine is no excuse for driving without your windows clear enough to drive safely on the road.quote:
Originally posted by Chimay:
I don't have a garage and it sometimes takes 10 minutes or more in the winter just to get the ice off and that is with the engine running and defroster on high, using a ice scrapper to boot.
There are many variables to consider with that question. Do you get in your car, drive it for 10 minutes or less at low speeds and stop it for 8 hours or more? If so, you probably aren't burning the moisture out of the engine and exhaust system. A longer warm-up can help.
In very cold climates, with any kind of driving, the heads on the engine will warm up much faster than the block, creating great temperature and expansion differences that can be tough on connecting points and head gaskets. Idling should create a more gradual warm up of the heads.
I think you can cut the needed warm up time for the engine if you get a block coolant heater and use it when the temperatures dip down below freezing. But, that still won't do much for the exhaust system.
If your vehicle is in a garage, it will probably be less moist and warmer than if it stands outside, even if the garage is not heated.
In very cold climates, with any kind of driving, the heads on the engine will warm up much faster than the block, creating great temperature and expansion differences that can be tough on connecting points and head gaskets. Idling should create a more gradual warm up of the heads.
I think you can cut the needed warm up time for the engine if you get a block coolant heater and use it when the temperatures dip down below freezing. But, that still won't do much for the exhaust system.
If your vehicle is in a garage, it will probably be less moist and warmer than if it stands outside, even if the garage is not heated.
For the first time since new last weekend I changed the oil in my Wifes commuter after it set overnight instead of fresh off the hiway .
In 80F ambient and 3.5 miles of driving it was not warm enough for my liking .
In 80F ambient and 3.5 miles of driving it was not warm enough for my liking .
I do about 30 seconds in the summer and 60 seconds or so in the winter purely to build oil flow and pressure. Then I drive easy until fully warm. Except when I have a lot of snow. With no garage I have to resort to idling and running defrost while I scrape.
Kestas
Staff member
I live a block from the freeway. I just start the car, go, and in a minute or so I'm on the freeway -- summer or winter.
Wear is almost undetectable at steady, set, rpm when fully warmed to design temperature. Getting to that point, efficently, is the goal.
So long as oil pressure is up to par, then slow steady driving -- using as little fuel as possible to accelerate, and using l-o-n-g coasts -- is the usual "best" recommendation. Get into top gear (not overdrive), about 30-45 mph depending on road type. Assume 7-15 miles to warm fully the engine/transmission/differential oils, and a little further to get grease to same. Figure it will take another 7-15 miles to burn off accumulated water/condensation, acids and the like.
Short trips are, IMHO, not "10-15" miles or less, but anything under 30 miles. One has to "regain" [so-to-speak] the stability of complete operating temperatures AND low levels of corrosives.
To some degree, a smaller, lighter vehicle can achieve this more quickly, but it is more a matter of design and materials (as well as manufacturing processes).
On a weekend, prior to fueling and washing, I enjoy a highway spin to keep this margin in place in a low annual mile vehicle. Then, on to the short trips of shopping, etc.
So long as oil pressure is up to par, then slow steady driving -- using as little fuel as possible to accelerate, and using l-o-n-g coasts -- is the usual "best" recommendation. Get into top gear (not overdrive), about 30-45 mph depending on road type. Assume 7-15 miles to warm fully the engine/transmission/differential oils, and a little further to get grease
Short trips are, IMHO, not "10-15" miles or less, but anything under 30 miles. One has to "regain" [so-to-speak] the stability of complete operating temperatures AND low levels of corrosives.
To some degree, a smaller, lighter vehicle can achieve this more quickly, but it is more a matter of design and materials (as well as manufacturing processes).
On a weekend, prior to fueling and washing, I enjoy a highway spin to keep this margin in place in a low annual mile vehicle. Then, on to the short trips of shopping, etc.
I live next to highway, in summer 30-60 seconds in Nissan with gentle acceleration. Winter with Full Synthetic oil and block heater set on timer for 4 hours and idle 3-5 minutes, then no more than 2000 rpm on manual shifts for 1.5 miles ensuring not to lug a cold engine and not over rev too, at 1.5 miles it is operating temp. It is the 2.5 four banger.
92 cummins diesel, summer about 2 minutes, winter idle 5 minutes and drive with extremely gentle acceleration for another 5 minutes in either season, after 5 min in summer I give it a bit of a load, in winter I speed up to normal speed very gentle.
I make homemade beer, any beer kits in Chimay like ales, is Chimay a light or dark ale?
thanks,
Cyprs
92 cummins diesel, summer about 2 minutes, winter idle 5 minutes and drive with extremely gentle acceleration for another 5 minutes in either season, after 5 min in summer I give it a bit of a load, in winter I speed up to normal speed very gentle.
I make homemade beer, any beer kits in Chimay like ales, is Chimay a light or dark ale?
thanks,
Cyprs
Chimay, a Trappist monistary in Belgium makes three diffrent ales under the rule of Saint Benedict which means you must live by the work of your own hands so they make beer. A dark rich strong ale called Grande Reserve also known as a "double" , a golden ale called Cinq Cents which is a hoppy ale known as a "triple" and a red ale known as Chimay RED. I have been to Belgium twice just for the beer.
Summer no, winter if it's cold I let it run at the donut shop while I'm inside having breakfast.
- Status