The engine in my boat is a SBC bored .60 over with head and cam work and a 8 quart oil capacity and aftermarket oil cooler. Currently running Mobil 1 SuperSyn 10w30 and Mobil 1 filter. Cruising speed and pratically anything under 4K rpm's will keep the oil temp at 190 degrees. Full throttle runs at 6,500 rpm's will raise it to 210 but will steadily fall back to 190-200 degrees. From what i've read this is an optimal temp range for oil and it seems the cooler is doing it's job very well!
Engine Oil Cooler
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Diesel Geek Oil Cooler
I have a Golf_IV 2.0L engine with a Neuspeed Supercharger. The SC is built by Magnuson using an Eaton blower (non intercooled). In stock form it produces 4-7psi of boost. The following review was performed on a VW TDI engine. This oil cooler is also made for my engine. Do you guys thinks its an important preventative maintanence mod?
I've been debating about purchasing this oil cooler. I use Mobil 1 0w40 engine oil and change it every 7K miles. I don't know the oil temperature since I don't have an oil temperature gauge.
Review by Turbo Steve on TDICLUB
In simple terms, this device performs two roles and is more fittingly called a "Heat Exchanger." It's main advantage is to keep oil and coolant temperatures more closely related to each other in order to avoid large temperature disparities, as is the case with the inefficient OE unit. It replaces the smaller OE unit.
Diesel Geeks Official Oil Cooler Attributes: http://www.dieselgeek.com/oilcooler.htm
IMHO - I view the inefficient OE device as more of a oil warmer than an oil cooling unit because it's too small to be a cooling device and more importantly, has very few internal baffles for heat transfer capabilities.
FYI - The antifreeze coolant usually performs 2/3 of the cooling and the engine oil accounts for the other 1/3.
With this 33% larger Heat Exchanger (that contains plenty more internal aluminum baffles than the smaller OE version), the 190*F. coolant transfers / exchanges heat to the colder oil and expedites it's warmup time until the two liquids are essentially equal in temperature.
Conversely, if the engine is driven hard, the OE unit will be ineffective in keeping oil temps under control and the oil can easily climb 40*F to 50*F. past coolant temperatures, creating an unbalanced condition - just the opposite of when the engine is warming up. Besides being too small, the OE design doesn't incorporate very many internal cooling fins or baffles for oil cooling efficiency.
With the Diesel Geek unit, this more efficient Heat Exchanger once again transfers the higher oil temps back to the coolant and the two liquids are more closely balanced around 200*F +/-, depending on numerous factors. After testing this excellent Diesel Geek Heat Exchanger for three days, objective data has shown that it is definitely preventing oil temps from going past coolant temps. 200*F. is where the VDO Oil Temperature gauge needle is stabilized DURING (long) harder than normal test drives, so I consider this unit to perform as advertised and a worthwhile investment! to protect your engine.
In summary, this outstanding Heat Exchanger prevents large vacillating temperature differences between the oil and the coolant and ties these two critically important values close together for better protection of the engine for improved efficiency and enhanced longevity.
[ August 31, 2002, 04:40 AM: Message edited by: doug_e ]
I have a Golf_IV 2.0L engine with a Neuspeed Supercharger. The SC is built by Magnuson using an Eaton blower (non intercooled). In stock form it produces 4-7psi of boost. The following review was performed on a VW TDI engine. This oil cooler is also made for my engine. Do you guys thinks its an important preventative maintanence mod?
I've been debating about purchasing this oil cooler. I use Mobil 1 0w40 engine oil and change it every 7K miles. I don't know the oil temperature since I don't have an oil temperature gauge.
Review by Turbo Steve on TDICLUB
In simple terms, this device performs two roles and is more fittingly called a "Heat Exchanger." It's main advantage is to keep oil and coolant temperatures more closely related to each other in order to avoid large temperature disparities, as is the case with the inefficient OE unit. It replaces the smaller OE unit.
Diesel Geeks Official Oil Cooler Attributes: http://www.dieselgeek.com/oilcooler.htm
IMHO - I view the inefficient OE device as more of a oil warmer than an oil cooling unit because it's too small to be a cooling device and more importantly, has very few internal baffles for heat transfer capabilities.
FYI - The antifreeze coolant usually performs 2/3 of the cooling and the engine oil accounts for the other 1/3.
With this 33% larger Heat Exchanger (that contains plenty more internal aluminum baffles than the smaller OE version), the 190*F. coolant transfers / exchanges heat to the colder oil and expedites it's warmup time until the two liquids are essentially equal in temperature.
Conversely, if the engine is driven hard, the OE unit will be ineffective in keeping oil temps under control and the oil can easily climb 40*F to 50*F. past coolant temperatures, creating an unbalanced condition - just the opposite of when the engine is warming up. Besides being too small, the OE design doesn't incorporate very many internal cooling fins or baffles for oil cooling efficiency.
With the Diesel Geek unit, this more efficient Heat Exchanger once again transfers the higher oil temps back to the coolant and the two liquids are more closely balanced around 200*F +/-, depending on numerous factors. After testing this excellent Diesel Geek Heat Exchanger for three days, objective data has shown that it is definitely preventing oil temps from going past coolant temps. 200*F. is where the VDO Oil Temperature gauge needle is stabilized DURING (long) harder than normal test drives, so I consider this unit to perform as advertised and a worthwhile investment! to protect your engine.
In summary, this outstanding Heat Exchanger prevents large vacillating temperature differences between the oil and the coolant and ties these two critically important values close together for better protection of the engine for improved efficiency and enhanced longevity.
[ August 31, 2002, 04:40 AM: Message edited by: doug_e ]
How about installing a remote oil thermometer and finding out just what you do need? It might save you money. It might save you an engine.
Or, just drive really hard, stop, and hold a suitable thermometer against your oil sump long enough for the reading to stabilize. Hold some kind of insulating material over it. Or take the temperature of the outside of your filter, or whatever works.
Ken
Or, just drive really hard, stop, and hold a suitable thermometer against your oil sump long enough for the reading to stabilize. Hold some kind of insulating material over it. Or take the temperature of the outside of your filter, or whatever works.
Ken
Hey VaderSS,
I went ahead and installed the Derale unit I mentioned above ($69.39 @ Summitracing). It only took about an hour or so to install....
After 3000 miles with the cooler installed, a fresh oil change, and filter, I'm surprised to see that my oil (Mobil 1 SuperSyn 10w30) is visually still as clean as it was when I installed it. Could this be a result of installing the cooler?
Thanks!
I went ahead and installed the Derale unit I mentioned above ($69.39 @ Summitracing). It only took about an hour or so to install....
After 3000 miles with the cooler installed, a fresh oil change, and filter, I'm surprised to see that my oil (Mobil 1 SuperSyn 10w30) is visually still as clean as it was when I installed it. Could this be a result of installing the cooler?
Thanks!
In the midst of a June Chicago heat spell which lasted for 3+ months - I flushed the transmission on the 94 Volvo turbo using Amsoil Universal Synthetic ATF. The trans cooler lines run into the radiator. The trans. fluid was not apparently dirty based on the dipstick evaluation, upon flushing it appeared dirtier looking but not trashed. This trans. had been maintained (100K, 4+ qts. dumped through the drain pan every 20K) I had been using Mobil 1 10w30 in the engine, and the trans. previously had an unknown brand ATF standard petro fluid. Immediately after the flush besides noticeably smoother almost imperceptible shifting there was a dramatic drop in the temperature of the drivetrain (engine/trans.) The A/C worked well now on a reduced fan speed. Early the next morning on the way to work I drove the usual 22+ miles on the expressway, at 75 mph+, pulling off and right into McDonald's drive up for the usual breakfast. I thought something was wrong because the radiator fan finally went into increased speed mode after three minutes, when normally it would start within 10 seconds. The tremendous heat normally generated just wasn't there, the whole car was cooler.
I tried to improve even further on things, and replaced the Mobil 1 with Series 2000 Amsoil 0-30, and Series 2000 75-90 in the differential. Things got even cooler. It made the whole summer more pleasant.
I have no scientific documentation about what occurred but in my opinion, the synthetic fluids are low friction and there was a better heat transfer.
I do not sell the product, and recently began using these products. I am impressed.
I tried to improve even further on things, and replaced the Mobil 1 with Series 2000 Amsoil 0-30, and Series 2000 75-90 in the differential. Things got even cooler. It made the whole summer more pleasant.
I have no scientific documentation about what occurred but in my opinion, the synthetic fluids are low friction and there was a better heat transfer.
I do not sell the product, and recently began using these products. I am impressed.
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