Engine Noise on 2005 Explorer

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Originally Posted By: Black_Thunder
sometimes you can get away with just changing the tensioners and that will help significantly


Can that be done with the engine still in place? How difficult is it to do?
 
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yes the left tensioner is on the front next to the thermostat housing.


the right one is towards the back of the head above the exhaust manifold i believe you can get at it through the wheel well.


there are some instructional videos on youtube that are pretty easy to find telling you what size they are and stuff. you may also be able to kinda take a look inside at the chain etc when the tensioner is out to see if there is an damage to components etc.
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-LUdwhq-M3M


this video is from an older explorer with the same engine but it has the older intake on it, the new explorer have a different intake with the throttle body at the rear of the engine so the front/left tensioner is more out in the open then this model.

this is the part 2 video, the part 1 video shows the rear tensioner.


here is the part 1 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P4N5E_RfYpE
 
Originally Posted By: Black_Thunder
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-LUdwhq-M3M


this video is from an older explorer with the same engine but it has the older intake on it, the new explorer have a different intake with the throttle body at the rear of the engine so the front/left tensioner is more out in the open then this model.

this is the part 2 video, the part 1 video shows the rear tensioner.


here is the part 1 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P4N5E_RfYpE


Hmm, that's interesting. So say I replace these tensioners and the rattle is then gone. Does that mean the tensioners were the culprit to the rattling and the plastic guides are still in good condition, or is replacing the tensioners just kind of a band aid fix?

I would certainly be willing to try this if it has a good chance of fixing it. And for only $70 in parts it would be great if it worked. The whole situation is hard to think about. A 12 year old car with 27k miles, but worth less than the cost of replacing the timing chain cassettes.
 
I'm getting ready to order some new tensioners, but want to have all the info ready. Is there a official torque spec on these? I've watched a few different videos and they have stated several different specs. Is "really tight" good enough? Also, should I expect much if any oil to come out when I replace them, particularly the one face down on the passenger side?
 
from the reviews I've read its best to go with OEM tensioners.


as far as the spec i know there is one spec if they are washerless and a different spec if there is a washer.


I believe the newer updated tensioners are ones with the washer but i think you need to order it separately
 
I was going to get the Cloyes tensioners from Rockauto. Is Cloyes the OEM ford the Ford part? I read somewhere else that may be the case. They're half the price the dealer wants for the OEM tensioners.
 
I can't seem to find the OEM on any known part sites. Does anyone know where to get these other than the dealer or do I just have to pay up?
 
I have a bit of an update. Since the OEM parts are kind of pricey and I can only find them at the dealer, I got to talking to one of the service techs at the dealer (happens to be the one where my sister purchased it). He offered to perform a free diagnostic and suggested they would be willing to replace the tensioners at a discounted rate.

Well they did a diagnostic and at first said they couldn't hear anything when the engine was warm. So they kept it overnight and started it cold the next morning. They acknowledge that the noise was there and seemed to be from the tensioners but they said that is a normal sound and would not recommend a repair (I've never known a dealer to turn down taking your money).
 
Its like Subaru engine knocking, its sound just like a rod knock but when warm it goes away so it isn't. Most of the time its just piston slap and they go on forever with it.
Given you location I would run a 0w40 or 5w40 Rotella T6 in it and forget it. Its possible the extra zinc in these oils may help the chains in the long run.
 
My first 528e developed a horrible intermittent knock at idle. After it on awhile I discoverd that it happened when the power steering pump had no load.The pump was on it when I scrapped it..
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